The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Morrison Fabrications
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

2G Weird sound and clutch issues

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

How are folks installing a flywheel and getting to tq it without feeling like the motor is gonna spin.
I have someone holding a half inch breaker bar on the other side, but I feel like to torque it down I have to give a little more effort and then that feels like it wants to spin

and since the motor is held in by one mount and supported by a Jack… not a ton of support.
 
How? Not sure how I apply that to my setup with all the stuff I have here.flywheel takes a 12 mm head and motor is taking a 14
 
Last edited:
How? Not sure how I apply that to my setup with all the stuff I have here.
A bolt in the block and a bolt on the flywheel and use a wrench in between. Will that not work on your flywheel?
 
First time doing something, always takes more time than you think.

going to pull the clutch cover back off and put some blue loctite on those bolts for safe measure.

also thought, did I need to have the flywheel step height checked? Assuming no since this Comp clutch came out of a running car that shifted perfectly. Was I supposed to get this “resurfaced”?

I think next up is tearing into the trans… may send it to @twicks69 for that tho. I guess worst case scenario I can take it apart and if something looks off, ship it off.
 
Last edited:
Ouch. I’m glad I only live an hour away from Tim 😁😁

I was actually surprised it was that cheap, but the risk here is that they wouldn't let me ensure it for the value I wanted for lost/stolen. Due to it's weight + replacement value of dogbox they would have had to send it Air, which I didn't want to do.

Actually speaking with a couple members about buying their 2g awd trans/rear end etc, just so I can have extra on hand :0
 
I was actually surprised it was that cheap, but the risk here is that they wouldn't let me ensure it for the value I wanted for lost/stolen. Due to it's weight + replacement value of dogbox they would have had to send it Air, which I didn't want to do.

Actually speaking with a couple members about buying their 2g awd trans/rear end etc, just so I can have extra on hand :0
I did the same. Extra trans, tcase and rear. They’ll be extinct one day. Might go ppg on the spare if it ever makes REAL powaaaa.
 
They were giving you a load of crap if they said you needed to pay for Air shipment. I send out ground shipments for 10K-20K without issue insured. Still, if your box is sturdy, not leaking, and well packed to allow zero movement of the components inside, it should be a very very low probability of damage or loss by the shipper.
 
They were giving you a load of crap if they said you needed to pay for Air shipment. I send out ground shipments for 10K-20K without issue insured. Still, if your box is sturdy, not leaking, and well packed to allow zero movement of the components inside, it should be a very very low probability of damage or loss by the shipper.

Hmmm. Well, I'll press the issue next time.

It's double bagged, 2" of foam board around most of it, in some places 3", plus it's wrapped in bubble wrap and stuffed with extra blankets/shop towels. I set it on all sides of it and tapped the crap out of it.

As long as they don't throw it around, should be good LOL
 
Sounds good, that is how I like to have them come in! We will be in touch!
TMZ
 
No real updates. Ordered a clutch line and then subsequently dropped the m10 x 1.0 fitting into the engine bay, and lost it. No idea where that f***er is.

also, this spring fell out of the slave I picked up, does it need to go back in?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
There is more than a spring, there should be a restrictor plate also. Car will drive without it but clutch will engage even faster than it already does.
 
The restrictor plate isn’t attached to the spring in the pic? Do they all have a restrictor plate? I have my old one here still, I think

This will be the second item this week that’s fallen and dropped, lost part of it, and then had to order new all over again
 
Kinda look like it yes. Can't tell. It's just a plate with a small hole. I didn't see that at first. Something is there.
 
Is this with a dogbox car, or a stock transmission car? I thought your email you sent said you had a dogbox, which uses a 1"x23 spline AT03 clutch alignment tool (same as Evo). Which exact quarter master clutch are you using? 6 leg? 8 leg? silver 2 piece flywheel or black 1 piece flywheel? The gear drive disk pack uses an AT20 7/8"x20-spline tool for the stock size input shaft, and a 1"x23 spline AT03 clutch alignment tool for PPG/PAR dogbox transmissions that have a larger input shaft size / spline count. Also, with certain flywheels, the clutch alignment hole is larger and the alignment tool needs to be taped to fit the hole size of the flywheel. It just depends on which exact clutch and flywheel assembly you are using.

As for the tcase, remove the side cover and remove the input sleeve and drive gear and fully inspect the bearings. The inner tapered roller bearing is notorious for premature failure vs. the rest of the bearings.

As for turning torque, with used stuff set up without much preload it should be easy to turn by hand disassembled or assembled. With some of my race ones that have a bit higher preload on the drive gear and the pinion preload it can be firmer to turn and require an output shaft installed into the tcase or a slip yoke on the tail shaft to rotate.
Hello twicks69,

sorry to butt in on the tread, but I think we are dealing with the same thing here.

I recently rebuilt my t-case and replace the input pinion preload bearing and am very concerned about turning torque.

I used a calibrated turning torque wrench which is showing me everything is within spec. (1.25 ft.lbs.) along with my backlash which is .0031".
I can only turn the input shaft of the t-case with a spare output shaft I have. It seems tight and "bouncing///like slight binding"
I am not sure what normal is supposed to be?
hopefully this can help us both out.
here is the link.

 
Could you explain a little?
In the upper picture I think I see a chunk of metal lying there near the bottom of the picture and it doesn't look like a gear tooth so I don't know what it is.
In the lower picture I see damaged gear teeth.
So questions come to mind like, did the gear teeth break because they just failed, or were they broken by ingesting that loose chunk that came from somewhere I don't know where?
Trying to understand the first cause - what broke first.
 
3rd gear ripped off at the root. Could have been from previous teeth cracking from abuse and it just let go. Its just a stock gear that was face plated. How it goes.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top