1G Weep hole keeps leaking 3rd water pump

[AWD-Tony]

I’ll try to keep this as short as possible. Replaced the water pump when I first got the car. Gates wp from extremepsi. Was fine until I rebuilt the bottom end after hg blew. Used the same wp since it didn’t have many miles on it and yes new gasket. Weep hole started leaking so I got another gates wp but from Amazon this time. It leaked again so got a replacement and it’s leaking again. I’m not having any overheating issues and it’s bleed properly. Thinking about shelling out the money for oem but I’m afraid it’s going to happen again. Each time I replaced the wp, it was fine for a little while. Seems like it starts leaking after the first drive. Idk what’s going on. Belts are not over tightened.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Damn sounds like the oem option may be the last alternative.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Damn sounds like the oem option may be the last alternative.

Really don’t mind IF it won’t leak again. But I’m not sure if there’s another issue that’s causing this.

 

[2gmitsueclipse]

Overtightening the drive belt can reduce the waterpump lifespan. Very odd to receive multiple failing water pumps. Never had an issue with Gates, GMB, or Aisin water pumps.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Overtightening the drive belt can reduce the waterpump lifespan. Very odd to receive multiple failing water pumps. Never had an issue Gates, GMB, or Aisin water pumps.

I know and I made sure the belts were on the looser side on the last two wp so over tightening the drives can be ruled out.

 

[dustyboner]

http://newsletter.motor.com.s3-webs...2017/20170403/!ID_RebootServicePractices.html

 

[AWD-Tony]

http://newsletter.motor.com.s3-webs...2017/20170403/!ID_RebootServicePractices.html

I am going to try this. Kind of makes sense but I’ve replaced waters pumps on my jeep and Altima with gates and both have been fine.

• Protect New Water Pumps From a Dry Start-Up — Before installing a new water pump, invert the pump, impeller side up and pour a small amount of coolant around the shaft. Rotate the impeller a couple of turns to work the new coolant between the water pumps seal sealing surfaces helping to guard it against a dry start up.
• Give New Water Pumps a Clean Start — Once a water pump failure has been determined, flush the system with the old water pump. Then once all of the old coolant has been removed, remove the old pump and install the new pump, gently refilling with new coolant. This eliminates forcing old contaminated coolant through the new water pump seal during the flush.

 

[arrowhead]

A long shot, have you check pulley damage.

 

[AWD-Tony]

A long shot, have you check pulley damage.

Pulley is ok. Think there’s debris is the coolant. I wiped the weep hole and I’m not sure what this is but it does feel gritty so I’m going to flush it out with the wp that’s on there now. Fingers crossed

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[smbgsx]

I skimmed and it was touched on already I'm sure, but I'm rushing. So sorry if it's a repeat but did you backflush the cooling system? Flush heater core and engine/rad seperate. If you don't do this prior to new pump install it actually voids the warranty. Left over sediment will kill shaft seals quickly and will damage fins/blades on new pump.
Back flush, clean gasket surface, if there is some decent pitting on the block- smooth it best you can and give the new gasket a skin coat of water pump gasket maker.
Use an air lift vacuum system to fill, shouldn't even need to bleed after that. And it will allow you to check how well the system is sealed before refilling.
Verify water temp gauge by either testing the sender, the circuit, and the gauge or by comparing your gauge cluster reading with an infrared thermometers reading on the head, heater core hose, or thermostat housing at operating temp

 

[luv2rallye]

Non oem factory water pumps are known to have problems and DEFINITELY won't even last 1/3 the time a oem factory one will. Personal experience and endless reports of this all over Tuners. IMHO I'll gladly pay the double price for an oem factory one that lasts 15 yrs instead of 5 (not to mention to not get stranded somewhere).

 

[AWD-Tony]

I skimmed and it was touched on already I'm sure, but I'm rushing. So sorry if it's a repeat but did you backflush the cooling system? Flush heater core and engine/rad seperate. If you don't do this prior to new pump install it actually voids the warranty. Left over sediment will kill shaft seals quickly and will damage fins/blades on new pump.
Back flush, clean gasket surface, if there is some decent pitting on the block- smooth it best you can and give the new gasket a skin coat of water pump gasket maker.
Use an air lift vacuum system to fill, shouldn't even need to bleed after that. And it will allow you to check how well the system is sealed before refilling.
Verify water temp gauge by either testing the sender, the circuit, and the gauge or by comparing your gauge cluster reading with an infrared thermometers reading on the head, heater core hose, or thermostat housing at operating temp

I did clean the block with garden hose and compressed air when I got it back from the machine shop.

Non oem factory water pumps are known to have problems and DEFINITELY won't even last 1/3 the time a oem factory one will. Personal experience and endless reports of this all over Tuners. IMHO I'll gladly pay the double price for an oem factory one that lasts 15 yrs instead of 5 (not to mention to not get stranded somewhere).

I have another bnib gates wp but will shell out the dough for oem this time around. Sick of dealing with it. Going to drain, pull the thermostat, run a garden hose through it while it’s idling and back flush heater core. Have a feeling there’s stuff left over in the system going by the pic I posted earlier and the fact that it doesn’t leak right away.

 

[ist dwa]

Try this and then change to GMB water pump, they seem to be the best aftermarket option after Mitsu wanted a small countries GDP for a H20 pump. I have used several GMBs with 0 problems.

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[arrowhead]

You may have to go to an underdrive pulley on your wp, I am sure you dont turn your KIA or your ALTIMA, the same RPM, RPMS will also kill wp, alt, ps.
Do all the above about cleaning your system, but maybe start looking for an underdrive pulley for your next one.

Mandy

 

[AWD-Tony]

Try this and then change to GMB water pump, they seem to be the best aftermarket option after Mitsu wanted a small countries GDP for a H20 pump. I have used several GMBs with 0 problems.

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I did use that right after the rebuild and did flush it out. I drained the coolant during lunch and the same black stuff you see in the weep hole was on the magnet for the rad but it didn’t feel gritty. Almost felt like silicone but it’s obviously metal. I’m going to flush it real good today.

You may have to go to an underdrive pulley on your wp, I am sure you dont turn your KIA or your ALTIMA, the same RPM, RPMS will also kill wp, alt, ps.
Do all the above about cleaning your system, but maybe start looking for an underdrive pulley for your next one.

Mandy

Don’t think that’s the issue. Haven’t gone above 5500 rpms yet so it can’t be that. I’m pretty sure there’s just crap in the system.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I didn’t have a coffee filter so I used a paper towel to filter the coolant and I’m confident that I just didn’t flush the system well enough after getting it back from the machine shop. Had the car running for about half an hour with a garden hose attached to one of the heater core hoses. I’m hoping this was enough to get all the junk out. Swapping in another wp today with fresh coolant and hopefully the last one for a while.

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[arrowhead]

Hope that solves your problem, still ?

 

[luv2rallye]

If needed, I first run 10 minutes with a rad coolant flush additive. Then after cool down, I remove thermostat and remove upper & lower rad hose ends from rad. Then force water up (garden hose pressure) the lower rad hose opening in rad (I use a make shift coupling of other hose sizes/pipes to fit water tight, or in a pinch just wrap a towel around tightly with your hand) so it back flushes the rad (water goes in reverse direction from normal which loosens crap). Protect the fan motors some way so they don't get water on them (perhaps a hose on upper rad inlet to direct water away). Then flush the other direction. Also force water through upper rad hose into engine so it back flushes. Then flush the other direction. And same with heater hoses. Then flush the other direction.

 

[AWD-Tony]

I poured coolant in the pump with the pulley side down and rotated it to prelube the seal and I have to say it most definitely spins smoothers after a few revolutions. Got everything buttoned up but I am going to replace the throttle body with a spare because I think the fiav isn’t closing all the way. Need to order rebuild kit for the tb so I’ll update once that’s installed and driven.

@luv2rallye I did back flush it but haven’t back flushed the radiator which I will do once I get it out of the garage.

Thanks for everyone’s input!

PS DSM Gods, please let this be it

 

[luv2rallye]

As an aside, did you find a TB rebuild kit that has a fiav in it (where)? I'm currently having that problem.

 

[AWD-Tony]

As an aside, did you find a TB rebuild kit that has a fiav in it (where)? I'm currently having that problem.

My buddy had a spare 91-94 turbo tb so he gave it to me and I just ordered the rebuild kit from extremepsi but it’s only the gasket for fiav (not sure how to rebuild the actual fiav)

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[AWD-Tony]

@luv2rallye I don’t see a way you can rebuild this 91-94 turbo fiav unless you pull the plug

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[luv2rallye]

Mine's a 99 GST anyway which may be different. But ya, I've been reading (#7 here: http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/tttt/tttt3.html) that you can't replace the fiav. People just install a blockoff or bypass plate. But then you don't get a fast idle in cold weather so the engine always dies until it warms up (so you have to keep holding the accelerator pedal down). I live in Mn so must have the automatic fast idle, especially while outside scraping the ice off the windshield, tee, hee.

 

[AWD-Tony]

Yup I’ve read that. Think that it’s possible to rebuild the 90 tb?? but I’m not 100% sure especially now that you really can’t buy any parts for them. If you look at boostedbeavers yt video where he manually shut it, it seems likely those were serviceable. I cleaned the one I got and there was lot of carbon deposit inside and on the cap that blocks the air passage. Poured hot water on it and you can see spring expand closing that port so hopefully that’s my issue. My current issue is slightly high idle on cold start and a slight surges when coming to a stop.

 

[AWD-Tony]

@luv2rallye yup my fiav wasn’t moving. Glad it’s going to be fixed. Right one is my old one and I soaked both in warm water.

I did back flush the radiator and that was a good idea.

Hopefully move this thread to resolved this week.

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