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Ways to maintain higher oil pressure?

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AWDSOME

20+ Year Contributor
62
0
Jun 13, 2002
Is there any way to maintain higher oil pressure at idle?

The 2G DSM's drop way low on oil pressure whenever at idle and I was looking to see if there is something I can do short of constantly revving my engine (wastes a lot of gas and people think I constantly want to race).
 
How low is it? I don't see much of a problem unless it is almost nothing. I've got 165k on my beater and if you think your oil pressure is low at idle you should see mine. :) I doubt there is any need to rev it at idle just to keep the oil pressure up. I suppose if you really think you need more oil pressure you could replace the oil pump gears and remove the balace shafts...
 
>The 2G DSM's drop way low on oil pressure whenever at idle and I
>was looking to see if there is something I can do short of constantly
>revving my engine (wastes a lot of gas and people think I constantly want to race).

Not to freak you out even farther, but some believe that this low oil pressure is the reason for crank walk… And if you think that is low in the stock location (around 20psi) right after the oil pump, you should see what it is in your head! At hot idle, it gets down to 4-5psi! No wonder our lifters tend tick so much.

But there really is not much that you can do about it :(. Aside from crankwalk, these engine were designed to run this way.

Now, if you want slightly higher idle, you can always adjust the BISS screw on the throttle body. At least this way you it will not sound like you are trying to race everyone :). But that is not going to be a huge increase (maybe just a couple of PSIs).

If you want to reduce (delay?) chances of crankwalk, disconnect you clutch safety switch, so that you can start your car with out using the clutch. It is less safe, but it will help prolong the life of your thrust bearing.
 
I used to have pretty low oil pressure and someone told me to use OEM oil filters. Since then, oil pressure is fine for me. Worth a shot.
 
>Use the head for your turbo oil feed line.

Nick, I know that I was one of the first few people who raised alarm about loosing oil pressure due to 2G/RRE style oil supply line, but I have since then proven myself wrong (suits me right, using factory oil pressure gauge...).

I am now running two aftermarket oil pressure sensors (one stock location and one in the head). See it just above the turbo?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/cgi-bin/gallery/index.pl?photo=1041

I tried 1g line and RRE line and found oil pressures to be identical in both locations.

Also, I have been told that these oil cooled Garrets require more oil than what head oil tap can provide.

Oh, and balance shaft removal will only give you higher oil pressure if it is done properly... I hate to say how I now this...
 
I'm not as familiar with the 2G's, but on the 1G oil cooler housing (where the filter bolts up) you can shim the pressure source similar to increasing fuel presure with an FPR. It uses the same diaphram type pressure sending source. I do not know the size of the shim of the top of m head, so don't go sticking any old washer on there, but I'll see if I can find out. ;)

Regards,
 
>Use the head for your turbo oil feed line.

>I am now running two aftermarket oil pressure sensors (one stock >location and one in the head). See it just above the turbo?

Cool. Good idea GRNDSM

>Oh, and balance shaft removal will only give you higher oil pressure if >it is done properly... I hate to say how I now this...
[/QUOTE]

What would the wrong way be?
 
>Cool. Good idea GRNDSM

Thanks! I have a toggle switch between the two sensors so that I can read them on the same gauge.

>>Oh, and balance shaft removal will only give you higher oil pressure >>if it is done properly... I hate to say how I now this... [/QUOTE]
>
>What would the wrong way be?

The first time I had my engine rebuild, machinist did not properly blocked off the bearing hole... So I ended up with a much worse leak than just having balance shafts. Engine came down with crankwalk in 3k miles :(.

One of my friends cut off his rear balance shaft (the one behind the oil pump) without realizing that it had a hole in it... His engine lasted just a couple of days.

Both of those are very good examples of what NOT to do during balance shaft removal.
 
This is tough to solve.

As some other posters have noted, extremely low oil pressure might be related to crankwalk. However, this is not proved.

DSMs appear to have low oil pressure at idle. Shimming pressure relief valves will not solve this - that will just raise the pressure point or maximum pressure the engine will see.

As I see it, there are three ways to increase idle pressure. One is limit the areas needing oil. Removing the balance shafts helps, because they take some pressure to keep it lubed. Not really cheap or an easy fix though.

Second, check the oil pump. Make sure clearances are at the minimum so that oil losses are minimized. Its too bad there isn't a high volume oil pump mod as this would certainly help at low speeds.

Finally, try a higher viscosity oil. Higher viscosity oils don't flow as well, so they tend to build pressures up. Worth a try.

Good luck!

Kyle
 
As you may know the 2G oil squirters differ from the 1G and many say that if the 2G squirters get clogged than it can lower your oil pressure and may be a reason for crankwalk.
 
Originally posted by GRNDSM
>As you may know the 2G oil squirters differ from the 1G and many say
>that if the 2G squirters get clogged than it can lower your oil pressure
>and may be a reason for crankwalk.

That theory was pretty much proved to be wrong...

And how was it proved wrong when people were tearing down their engines to prove this theory?
 
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