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2G Water feed to eBay 16g turbo

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Ceezdsm99

Proven Member
91
12
Mar 11, 2022
California
So I’m swapping the stock t-25 turbo to a big 16 g .. im having trouble mounting the stock water lines onto it , on the turbo there is 2 plugs for a fitting on opposite sides of the turbo , im not sure what they are , or if I can use either one .. this is my first time doing this . Thanks in advance

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Solution
A lot of manufacturers apply oil to metal parts to keep them from rusting while they wait for sometime to buy them. Who knows how long it actually takes to be made till you install them. Plus working on them with oily hands and what not this seems to be normal.

Also do not post on here next saying something smells funny because new gaskets have a weird smell the first heat cycle or two. A funny smell is normal a time or two with new gaskets.

-Daniel
Hey thanks for your advice Daniel , it turned out to be a couple things that were causing the bogging ,one of the ignition coils were coroded , put in new coils packs wires and plugs , also a new maf sensor and now she’s running great 👍🏽
I’ve had b16g and 68hta, neither looks like that. What brand please?
This is a rev9 turbo , part# Tc-003 … yeah it Is a eBay turbo , But I just want to get this car back on the road , got this a while ago for basically free . I noticed my turbo was about to giving out , there’s a considerably large amount of oil in the hose , and some play .

Definitely a China special, one I had my hands on several years ago was the same way but I couldn’t tell you how to route it as I never ran water to it.
You could just not run water to it ? I’m new to turbos … one question tho , do you know of any symptoms of a blown turbo ?before this happened to me ,my car would smoke white/bluish smoke at idle . I accidentally shifted wrong from 5th to 3rd and redlined …my car started bogging out after that happened , and hesitating to go , It still boosts … I have no CELS , and my gears go in good so I don’t think it’s my tranny , the car turns on fine and the engine idles fine when warmed up . Last thing I did to the car was take out the clutch accumulator not sure if that would make it worse shifting the wrong gear 🤔
 
From my experience most china chargers have that style center section. If you want to run coolant to it leave them plugs where they came and hook up your coolant lines to each hole on the opposite sides of the charger. One should be on the back and one should be on the front. Best to put the banjo bolt and water pipe on the back one before installing the turbo. Shouldn’t matter which one is which because your just looking to have coolant flow through it.
If your trying to reuse the stock coolant lines I’m not sure how well you will make out. When I had water running to my 20g years back I had to order different hard lines for the charger and then use rubber hose to connect to the factory locations.
Also I haven’t ran coolant through any of my turbos since. I dont beat on the car for 5 miles or so before I get to where I’m going and I also have a turbo timer. A lot of people run with no coolant lines attached. I haven’t had any problems doing it this way and I cut the nipple off my water pipe and welded it shut and pulled the nipple off the thermostat housing and tapped it to 1/8 npt and plugged it when I rebuilt the motor 5 years ago.
-Daniel
 
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From my experience most china chargers have that style center section. If you want to run coolant to it leave them plugs where they came and hook up your coolant lines to each hole on the opposite sides of the charger. One should be on the back and one should be on the front. Best to put the banjo bolt and water pipe on the back one before installing the turbo. Shouldn’t matter which one is which because your just looking to have coolant flow through it.
If your trying to reuse the stock coolant lines I’m not sure how well you will make out. When I had water running to my 20g years back I had to order different hard lines for the charger and then use rubber hose to connect to the factory locations.
Also I haven’t ran coolant ran through any of my turbos since. I dont beat on the car for 5 miles or so before I get to where I’m going and I also have a turbo timer. A lot of people run with no coolant lines attached. I haven’t had any problems doing it this way and I cut the nipple off my water pipe and welded it shut and pulled the nipple off the thermostat housing and tapped it to 1/8 npt and plugged it when I rebuilt the motor 5 years ago.
-Daniel
I see … so it dosent matter which hole or which side aslong as they go to the return and feed main lines on the car . I might consider running it with no coolant 🤔 but then I’d have to plug both sides ?
 
If you didn’t remove the plugs that were in the center section when you got it you would just need to hook water up to each side front and back. If I remember correctly the back one should go to the block and the front one should go to the water pipe nipple. But once again I don’t think it would matter because your just looking to have coolant flow through it.

Also if you don’t run water to it you don’t have to do anything to the charger. Just leave it as is no need to plug holes. I just used a section of reinforced rubber hose and looped a line from the block nipple to the water pipe nipple. Once I had the motor out and during rebuild I cut off and welded the water pipe nipples shut for the turbo and oil cooler then stuck a oil pan drain bolt in the fitting on the block. Sorry earlier I said about the thermostat housing but that was for the other oil cooler line that I plugged.
- Daniel
 
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If you didn’t remove the plugs that were in the center section when you got it you would just need to hook water up to each side front and back. If I remember correctly the back one should go to the block and the front one should go to the water pipe nipple. But once again I don’t think it would matter because your just looking to have coolant flow through it.

Also if you don’t run water to it you don’t have to do anything to the charger. Just leave it as is no need to plug holes. I just used a section of reinforced rubber hose and looped a line from the block nipple to the water pipe nipple. Once I had the motor out and during rebuild I cut off and welded the water pipe nipples shut for the turbo and oil cooler then stuck a oil pan drain bolt in the fitting on the block. Sorry earlier I said about the thermostat housing but that was for the other oil cooler line that I plugged.
- Daniel
I see I wonder if there are any side effects to that , im probably going to be running it without coolant then . I just don’t get how you can just leave those openings out like that on the turbo without plugging it 🤔 won’t it leak air. Daniel one more thing..on the top of this thread I have a question about my turbo .. what do you think ?
 
You could just not run water to it ? I’m new to turbos … one question tho , do you know of any symptoms of a blown turbo ?before this happened to me ,my car would smoke white/bluish smoke at idle . I accidentally shifted wrong from 5th to 3rd and redlined …my car started bogging out after that happened , and hesitating to go , It still boosts … I have no CELS , and my gears go in good so I don’t think it’s my tranny , the car turns on fine and the engine idles fine when warmed up . Last thing I did to the car was take out the clutch accumulator not sure if that would make it worse shifting the wrong gear 🤔
@99dsmer4g63
 
If you run the crap out of your car and then shut it off immediately; yes I’m sure there will be side effects like the oiling coking inside the housing. Which is why I stay low rpm/ no boost for a little while driving before shutdown and have turbo timer.

Also there are plenty of factory turbo cars without coolant running through them that use journal bearings. Do a little research and see what you come up with. Some say it’s horrible and it will never last. Other like my self have been doing it for thousands of miles and haven’t had an issue.

Think about it. If the coolant passage would leak air the coolant would leak into your intake track. It’s completely separated.
-Daniel

You could just not run water to it ? I’m new to turbos … one question tho , do you know of any symptoms of a blown turbo ?before this happened to me ,my car would smoke white/bluish smoke at idle . I accidentally shifted wrong from 5th to 3rd and redlined …my car started bogging out after that happened , and hesitating to go , It still boosts … I have no CELS , and my gears go in good so I don’t think it’s my tranny , the car turns on fine and the engine idles fine when warmed up . Last thing I did to the car was take out the clutch accumulator not sure if that would make it worse shifting the wrong gear 🤔
My thoughts are that if anything was damaged by that it, would probably be the top end; specifically the valves. If your car seems fine now it may be okay. If you want to give your self piece of mind that your engine is healthy buy a leak down tester and test each cylinder individually. Google leak down test to understand the process and how to use one. But it will verify the intake and exhaust valves are healthy along with the head gasket and piston & rings.

Also I deleted my accumulator a while ago and the only thing I noticed was a better feeling clutch pedal. 👍

The blue/white smoke is either turbo, rings or valve stem seals. If your turbo had shaft play and oil in the pipe chances are that’s why. The leak down test will confirm rings are healthy. If you still see smoke after turbo replacement and rings check out it’s valve stem seals.
-Daniel
 
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It shouldn't cost much put together a new coolant line system. $50? I'm sure you could find someone local who has all that stuff sitting around. If you don't want to re-hook it up then you'll be fine too. It may hurt the longevity of the turbo but who knows by how much. Tons of people run without coolant lines.
 
Lines go into the top holes of the water jacket as if it were any other 16G being installed...the China specials just have threaded plugs opposed to expansion plugs. You'll have to do some bending to make the TB2566 coolant lines work as they're located dead-center on the T2 bearing housing. Personally I'd simplify things and just delete the coolant lines...as long as you're feeding from the filter housing and not doing boosted pulls into your driveway and immediately turning the car off you'll be fine.

Spoiler alert...you're going to have boost control issues if you don't port the wastegate hole.
 
Lines go into the top holes of the water jacket as if it were any other 16G being installed...the China specials just have threaded plugs opposed to expansion plugs. You'll have to do some bending to make the TB2566 coolant lines work as they're located dead-center on the T2 bearing housing. Personally I'd simplify things and just delete the coolant lines...as long as you're feeding from the filter housing and not doing boosted pulls into your driveway and immediately turning the car off you'll be fine.

Spoiler alert...you're going to have boost control issues if you don't port the wastegate hole.
Yeah to Be honest I just want to run it without coolant, I could run a hose from the feed Housing to the return directly and it would just flow back and forth am I right 🤔 port the wastegate hole ?I don’t know anything about turbos 😅 The description on this turbo says the wastegate is set at 8psi . Thanks justmx141 !
-saul
 
Yeah to Be honest I just want to run it without coolant, I could run a hose from the feed Housing to the return directly and it would just flow back and forth am I right 🤔 port the wastegate hole ?I don’t know anything about turbos 😅 The description on this turbo says the wastegate is set at 8psi . Thanks justmx141 !
-saul
??? Flow back and forth? Explain please.
You need two lines. One to feed oil and one to drain oil back to pan.
 
??? Flow back and forth? Explain please.
You need two lines. One to feed oil and one to drain oil back to pan.
He’s talking about the lines that come from the block and water pipe. As I already explained just loop the lines together with reinforced hose until you can weld the nipple shut and put a 7 bolt oil pan bolt in the fitting on the block.

Or you can buy a cap for the water pipe nipple. However do not use just a vacuum cap.
-Daniel
 
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He’s talking about the lines that come from the block and water pipe. As I already explained just looped the lines together with reinforced hose until you can weld the nipple shut and put a 7 bolt oil pain bolt in the fitting on the block. Or you can buy a cap for the water pipe nipple. However do not use just a vacuum cap.
-Daniel
Hey boss , what did jusmx141 mean about porting the wastegate hole ? I ordered these water lines they should solve my problem

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Hey boss , what did jusmx141 mean about porting the wastegate hole ? I ordered these water lines they should solve my problem

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He meant you will get boost creep as the wastegate hole wont let boost out effectively.
 
If the hole inside the housing that the wastegate flapper covers and seals to create boost is too small when it opens the wastegate to release the extra boost pressure it will not flow enough exhaust out of the “too small” hole resulting in an over boost condition. I never experienced any with my chinabay 20g I ran for a couple years with an internal wastegate at 12 psi.

Your options include:
1: turn the damn boost up (my favorite safely of course)
2: keep the internal gate and port the hole behind it( search it’s been pretty beat to death here)
3: remove the internal gate and flapper door completely, weld the hole shut from the flapper arm, port the hole that the flapper used to seal on as big as you feel comfortable with and add an o2 housing that using an external gate and dump it under the car( which I currently have.)
4: don’t do anything and see if it actually will over boost and then remove the housing and deal with it then.

Thoughts on number 4; jusmx141 is very knowledgeable when it comes to anything turbo related and he probably has forgot more about these turbos than I know. Before I made a profile on here I would google search and pull threads up on this site. If it was a turbo related question I had I would take Justin’s info and advice over most if not all people on this forum. No hate to anyone else on here but if you know you know.
-Daniel
 
If the hole inside the housing that the wastegate flapper covers and seals to create boost is too small when it opens the wastegate to release the extra boost pressure it will not flow enough exhaust out of the “too small” hole resulting in an over boost condition. I never experienced any with my chinabay 20g I ran for a couple years with an internal wastegate at 12 psi.

Your options include:
1: turn the damn boost up (my favorite safely of course)
2: keep the internal gate and port the hole behind it( search it’s been pretty beat to death here)
3: remove the internal gate and flapper door completely, weld the hole shut from the flapper arm, port the hole that the flapper used to seal on as big as you feel comfortable with and add an o2 housing that using an external gate and dump it under the car( which I currently have.)
4: don’t do anything and see if it actually will over boost and then remove the housing and deal with it then.

Thoughts on number 4; jusmx141 is very knowledgeable when it comes to anything turbo related and he probably has forgot more about these turbos than I know. Before I made a profile on here I would google search and pull threads up on this site. If it was a turbo related question I had I would take Justin’s info and advice over most if not all people on this forum. No hate to anyone else on here but if you know you know.
-Daniel
I see what you mean 🤔 and yeah you’re right justin knows what he’s talking about . I will keep that in mind when testing the car once it’s on there , might go with your favorite option LOL but either way I hope it’ll be fine just like that . Here’s a picture of more info on the turbo

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The main detail you would want to know is what the diameter of the flapper is. The bigger the flapper the more exhaust it can bypass resulting in a controlled boost level. It is not listed on there but I’d guess maybe 30mm. The hole behind it is only going to be smaller and can often be enlarged in less than an hour to offer the most flow out of it.
Jafromobile has a good YouTube video showing this on his chinabay 20g if you would take that route. Cheaper than turning the boost up but not as fun in the end.
-Daniel
 
The main detail you would want to know is what the diameter of the flapper is. The bigger the flapper the more exhaust it can bypass resulting in a controlled boost level. It is not listed on there but I’d guess maybe 30mm. The hole behind it is only going to be smaller and can often be enlarged in less than an hour to offer the most flow out of it.
Jafromobile has a good YouTube video showing this on his chinabay 20g if you would take that route. Cheaper than turning the boost up but not as fun in the end.
-Daniel
I see ,it can be enlarged in less than hour 🤔? Yeah ima Have to check that out . Thanks In advance Daniel
 
Yes, after the turbo is off the car. You would need a die grinder, some carbide bits and some patience. If you go too far option 3 from earlier is pretty much the only one that housing could be used for. Watch Jafro’s video if it something you are considering doing.
-Daniel
 
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