This is how I install a Walbro 450/525/535 in a 2g sending unit. Also, a great way to fix a broken/twisted fuel line.
Pictures show how I got it versus finished product. I’ve been doing this mod for atleast 10 years, maybe even more. After tuning so many cars and logging fuel pressure, 9 times out of 10, the fuel pressure isn’t 1:1 because the pump was not installed correctly like pictured. Result is high injector duty and maxed out injectors… and you’ll have to pay your tuner again to retune it after you fix it. I won’t even tune a car if this mod wasn't done in a 2g.
In my opinion, a person driving the car hard and competing should have a surge tank but this will get most by who are just doing basic things. There a bunch of different ways to beef up the fuel system more but this is the cheapest and most reliable way to get it done. Not going to type up a full how to because this is a very simple modification and should be self explanatory but I will note a few things.
- Make sure you use real R10 5/16” submersible fuel line and cut length to exactly 1 1/4”. If it doesn’t say R10 or submersible on it, DO NOT USE IT! So many people install J9 high pressure line thinking it’s ok and it’s not. It will burst after a few months because the fuel eats the outside of the line breaking down the structure of the line and then will bust. Fuel pressure drops during a pull, so will your bank account when you have to rebuild engine.
- Use the high pressure clamps as pictured.
- Position the clamps as pictured for maximum clearance.
- Cut fuel pump down to last barb for maximum clearance at bottom of the tank.
- Drill siphon 1/8” (more may be required depending on how your base pressure behaves and size of return line to tank (a different discussion) but 1/8 should get you by with a 50psi base.
- The Radium power harness isn’t needed but a nice touch for people that want the most out of the pump when pushing it hard. If you want to use the stock inside wiring, install a plug on the factory wiring so pump is plug and play. Do not use butt connectors or heat shrink. It will fall apart over time.
- This is for e85/flex fuel cars and way overkill for pump gas but I suppose if you are running pump gas, a 450 is all you will ever need
E85 power levels:
450lph = 525hp
525lph = 625hp
535lph = 700hp
**Mustang dyno numbers. Add 13% for Dynojet. Assuming your standard 13.5v and 6AN feed.
Putting the information out there publicly so I can link people here instead of having to explain every time.
Pictures show how I got it versus finished product. I’ve been doing this mod for atleast 10 years, maybe even more. After tuning so many cars and logging fuel pressure, 9 times out of 10, the fuel pressure isn’t 1:1 because the pump was not installed correctly like pictured. Result is high injector duty and maxed out injectors… and you’ll have to pay your tuner again to retune it after you fix it. I won’t even tune a car if this mod wasn't done in a 2g.
In my opinion, a person driving the car hard and competing should have a surge tank but this will get most by who are just doing basic things. There a bunch of different ways to beef up the fuel system more but this is the cheapest and most reliable way to get it done. Not going to type up a full how to because this is a very simple modification and should be self explanatory but I will note a few things.
- Make sure you use real R10 5/16” submersible fuel line and cut length to exactly 1 1/4”. If it doesn’t say R10 or submersible on it, DO NOT USE IT! So many people install J9 high pressure line thinking it’s ok and it’s not. It will burst after a few months because the fuel eats the outside of the line breaking down the structure of the line and then will bust. Fuel pressure drops during a pull, so will your bank account when you have to rebuild engine.
- Use the high pressure clamps as pictured.
- Position the clamps as pictured for maximum clearance.
- Cut fuel pump down to last barb for maximum clearance at bottom of the tank.
- Drill siphon 1/8” (more may be required depending on how your base pressure behaves and size of return line to tank (a different discussion) but 1/8 should get you by with a 50psi base.
- The Radium power harness isn’t needed but a nice touch for people that want the most out of the pump when pushing it hard. If you want to use the stock inside wiring, install a plug on the factory wiring so pump is plug and play. Do not use butt connectors or heat shrink. It will fall apart over time.
- This is for e85/flex fuel cars and way overkill for pump gas but I suppose if you are running pump gas, a 450 is all you will ever need
E85 power levels:
450lph = 525hp
525lph = 625hp
535lph = 700hp
**Mustang dyno numbers. Add 13% for Dynojet. Assuming your standard 13.5v and 6AN feed.
Putting the information out there publicly so I can link people here instead of having to explain every time.
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