Shootout 2024 scramble

[DreamChaser7]

So my plan underneath was/is, ospho all oxidization after all the grinding etc, rust converter/primer the seams, Eastwood seam sealer where I deem a good idea (figured out through all the cleaning there’s a good reason the lowest points should be left open; a place for moisture to drain). Clean with Eastwood “Pre” thoroughly, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Platinum, touch up/ add rubberized undercoating where needed or removed to treat rust, top coat with base color to match as factory did, clear for protection with 2k or something. I think this should also work for the wheel wells, just not sure if I want the wells base color like original or go black there for contrast and help show off the hardware. See any reasons this approach would fail?

 

[Dusty Landrum]

So it's (1) self-etching primer, then (2) Por15, then (3) rubber coating? I thought that Por15 did some metal-magic on its own, doesn't the primer interfere with that? (Sorry, I'm a noob and just learning about all this stuff.)

Your car is going to be better-than-new! Inspirational.

No need to apologize dude!! I always welcome any questions! So with the por15, yes, they do recommend applying it directly on metal especially if there is any rust or anything you are trying to encapsulate. Since I took my frame down to bare metal, I felt more comfortable applying it over the seam sealer, seam spray, and self etching primer. If it was a daily driver or something that is expected to see some moisture, then you would want to apply it directly to the metal most likely. They claim the product could lose some moisture barrier abilities if applied over something else. For my build however I think the etching primer and THEN coating will work better though. If you are considering it on a daily or road car, definitely should probably follow their recommendations.

 

[Dusty Landrum]

So my plan underneath was/is, ospho all oxidization after all the grinding etc, rust converter/primer the seams, Eastwood seam sealer where I deem a good idea (figured out through all the cleaning there’s a good reason the lowest points should be left open; a place for moisture to drain). Clean with Eastwood “Pre” thoroughly, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator Platinum, touch up/ add rubberized undercoating where needed or removed to treat rust, top coat with base color to match as factory did, clear for protection with 2k or something. I think this should also work for the wheel wells, just not sure if I want the wells base color like original or go black there for contrast and help show off the hardware. See any reasons this approach would fail?

I think all of that would work perfectly fine as long as everything is done at the correct times. Mainly be sure to apply the top coat over the por15 right after it gets to the finger drag stage. If not you would have to really scuff up the por15 to get anything to stick again. Waaay more work than you will want to do! And also if you top coat the rubber with more paint and clear, remember that it will be textured. Other than that, everything sounds good to me. But also I have never used the Eastwood product on anything but inner frame rails and stuff. Never out in the open. So not sure how the product works exactly!

 

[DreamChaser7]

I think all of that would work perfectly fine as long as everything is done at the correct times. Mainly be sure to apply the top coat over the por15 right after it gets to the finger drag stage. If not you would have to really scuff up the por15 to get anything to stick again. Waaay more work than you will want to do! And also if you top coat the rubber with more paint and clear, remember that it will be textured. Other than that, everything sounds good to me. But also I have never used the Eastwood product on anything but inner frame rails and stuff. Never out in the open. So not sure how the product works exactly!

Yah that’s been my biggest conundrum trying to plan this all out is the timing of all the coats in succession in one weekend. Definitely don’t want to have to scuff anything down for next application to stick! Way too much work!

 

[Dusty Landrum]

Yah that’s been my biggest conundrum trying to plan this all out is the timing of all the coats in succession in one weekend. Definitely don’t want to have to scuff anything down for next application to stick! Way too much work!

Oh for sure. It took me a solid FULL day to get the coatings done, but hours and hours and hours getting it to bare metal, not to mention the wait time on the seam sealer ! Whole process takes 2 weeks easily.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Oh for sure. It took me a solid FULL day to get the coatings done, but hours and hours and hours getting it to bare metal, not to mention the wait time on the seam sealer ! Whole process takes 2 weeks easily.

I’m going on like 6-8 weeks I think ! But I’m only working on it on Saturday’s.

 

[Dusty Landrum]

So started on the engine bay, huge pain in the butt as well hahahaha. Just so much work to get everything down to metal and clean. Still a lot more work to do but so far no more rust found and the towers are really clean.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Keep at it it'll pay off.

 

[Dusty Landrum]

Keep at it it'll pay off.

Thank you man. Sometimes I just seems overwhelming and then I remember to just chunk it up and focus on one section/job at a time. Then it all comes back into perspective.

 

[EC17PSE]

So started on the engine bay, huge pain in the butt as well hahahaha. Just so much work to get everything down to metal and clean. Still a lot more work to do but so far no more rust found and the towers are really clean.

View attachment 694303

While you are here you will want to consider welding the seams a bit more and upper arm tubes. These tend to be a weak zone and although racers pull them you dont want them getting weak on you later and moving with nice coatings on, while its raw a bead of weld around the tubes will help protect for a long time for you.

 

[fourgsixty3]

While you are here you will want to consider welding the seams a bit more and upper arm tubes. These tend to be a weak zone and although racers pull them you dont want them getting weak on you later and moving with nice coatings on, while its raw a bead of weld around the tubes will help protect for a long time for you.

Good advice Bobby. Would you recommend a continuous bead or would additional spot welds suffice at the seams?

 

[Dusty Landrum]

While you are here you will want to consider welding the seams a bit more and upper arm tubes. These tend to be a weak zone and although racers pull them you dont want them getting weak on you later and moving with nice coatings on, while its raw a bead of weld around the tubes will help protect for a long time for you.

So since this is now the second trusted person I know to suggest this, I am def going to do it. Jesse also recommended the same thing. As you know I am planning to track the car so now would absolutely be the best time do to it. I am thinking a continuous bead on the top might be best. Although knowing my skill, it will be in three start and stops.

 

[fourgsixty3]

So since this is now the second trusted person I know to suggest this, I am def going to do it. Jesse also recommended the same thing. As you know I am planning to track the car so now would absolutely be the best time do to it. I am thinking a continuous bead on the top might be best. Although knowing my skill, it will be in three start and stops.

I know nothing about welding but it's something I considered trying so it's on the list. My only concern would be warping the shit out of it.

 

[Dusty Landrum]

I know nothing about welding but it's something I considered trying so it's on the list. My only concern would be warping the shit out of it.

For sure! I am going to stick a spare set of upper control arms I have up into the sleeves while I weld around the outside to help with that. Just control heat based on material thickness and wire feed with the machine and should be ok.

 

[EC17PSE]

As long as the whole tube is welded you will be ok and it dont matter if its in 3 or 4 sections. Just however you can do it, smaller spots might be good as it will control heat better without burning through the towers thinner material

 

[Dusty Landrum]

So knocked out the strut tubes today! Did some testing to see which method was best and it absolutely is to slowly tack weld around. My first tower rod I tried a bead and it starting blowing through the tube so I stopped. Not super happy with the look of it but the rest of the tubes came out decent. I actually ended up turning the heat down some and wire speed up just a touch from what the machine recommended. Once that was dialed in it was a breeze. Going to slap some sealer over everything and then get back to stripping the bay. Thank you so much @EC17PSE and @gsxitement for the push to do this.

Tried bead..

Now with tacking over and over and cooling it with air then again with tacks.

 

[Dusty Landrum]

Hardware came back from the zinc coaters!! It looks so amazing. Here is a sample of it for now. Have to get everything sorted and bagged soon. Powder coaters should be done with frames and large parts soon too.

 

[fourgsixty3]

Hardware came back from the zinc coaters!! It looks so amazing. Here is a sample of it for now. Have to get everything sorted and bagged soon. Powder coaters should be done with frames and large parts soon too.


View attachment 694590


View attachment 694589

That was fast. Looks amazing.

 

[Dusty Landrum]

That was fast. Looks amazing.

It really was fast. From blasting to playing was only a week. Seems pretty quick to me. Heck the blasters had all my parts done next day, which I thought was crazy for huge subframes and large parts, not to mention all the hardware.

 

[Dusty Landrum]

More grueling process today . Can’t believe I am doing this to myself a second time. This is def one of the hardest parts in my opinion as well. But it’s done!

Getting so close to being done with the engine bay.. then paint and then engine!

 

[DreamChaser7]

More grueling process today . Can’t believe I am doing this to myself a second time. This is def one of the hardest parts in my opinion as well. But it’s done!

View attachment 694706


Getting so close to being done with the engine bay.. then paint and then engine!

Love the angle. No one shot fully grabs all the work involved does it?

 

[Dusty Landrum]

Love the angle. No one shot fully grabs all the work involved does it?

It really doesn’t . Getting everything to bare metal is a huge undertaking, but getting there.

 

[Dusty Landrum]

Soooooooo, I did a thing….. stepping into a new platform soon. It’s in storage until the GSX is finished though so still push it to make shootout with the A87 this year.

 

[Dericsh]

Mannnnnnnn, dream car stuff.

 

[Mech Addict]

Your addiction to cars gets another level deeper. Nice machine.
Who got the red car? What is that; DeSoto?