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W4A33 tech and build thread

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Hi
Im opening this to collect info about our loved w4a33

In this post i want to have some data tech from manual services, pictures, performance mods etc, cares etc .
But mostly want to upload a step by step build with all of the parts in their own order.

First of all
I'm posting from others sites not want to be bad or i haven't bad intentions
My intentions is to get good info for all of us auto DSM lovers and can be sort issues if build by ourselves if we want to do .
 
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F4A33 & W4A33 Transmission Information

Transmission Codes
The codes stamped on the top of the transmission bell housing do actually mean something. These do pertain the manual transmissions to. Here is what the code means.

Code Meaning
W F=Front Wheel Drive, W=All Wheel Drive
4 4=4 Speed, 5=5 Speed
A A=Automatic, M=Manual
33 Transmission Series, Relative Torque capacity
1 Version, Based on major design changes
UQ61 Transmission type, This is what tells you what the vehicle it came out of
What transmission do i have? (STILL A WORK IN PROGRESS!)
Now you know what the code means the next question is usually what transmission do i have or what transmission do i need to look for? Most of this information was pulled from Mitsubishi CAPS.

Code Car
F4A33-1-UPQ 95-99 D32A DSM
F4A33-K-1UPQ 95-99 D32A DSM
W4A33-1-UPQ 95-99 D33A DSM
W4A33-1-UPQ2 95-96 D33A DSM
W4A33-1-FNQ 96-99 D33A DSM
W4A33-1-NPZT 95-99 D33A DSM
F4A33-1-UP63 92-94 D22A DSM
W4A33-1-UP6 91-92 D27A DSM
W4A33-1-UQ6 1989-1990 E39A GVR4
W4A33-1-UQ62 1991-1992 E39A GVR4
W4A33-1-UQ63 1992-1994 D27A DSM
W4A33-1-UQ61 1990-1992 D27A DSM
W4A33-1-FP6 RVR

"Source: w4a33.com"
 
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Ratios(STILL A WORK IN PROGRESS!)
Transmission gear ratios are not all the same for the automatics.

Transmission
First
-Second -Third- Fourth -Reverse- Final Drive
F4A33 2.551 1.488 1.000 0.685 2.176 4.376
W4A33 2.551 1.488 1.000 0.685 2.176 4.422
"Source: w4a33.com"
 
Gear Set
The 96/97 split also transferred to the automatic transmissions as well. This is to determine which gear set the transmission has so you can identify the trans as well as which transfer case you need to have. Just remove the front diff cover by removing the 10mm bolts on the rear of the transmission on the backside of the case, rotate and count teeth. You don't have to fully remove the differential to count this. I put small pieces of tape to hold my place and also put a piece of tape every 10 teeth to help keep track. RVRs are 97-99 gear set. To check this against your transfer case then see Here: Transfer Case Ratios

Gearset Front Diff Teeth
91-96 72 Teeth
97-99 71 Teeth

"Source: w4a33.com"
 
Shift Solenoids
In these transmissions only the forward gears are controlled by solenoids. Park, Reverse, and Neutral are all controlled mechanically via the shift selector. There are only 2 shifting solenoids on the valvebody. On all transmissions you will always have a 3rd solenoid. This is the line pressure control solenoid that controls the line pressure. On 2g transmissions you will have a 4th solenoid and this is the control solenoid for TCC lockup. Here is a chart that illustrates what solenoids are used for what gears. You will notice that since only 2 solenoids are present that there is only 4 possible solenoid states. When both solenoids are off that is 3rd gear. This is a safety feature so if the transmission happens to loose all power you still have Park, Reverse, Neutral, and 3rd to get the car to a safe place.

Gear SOL-A (Yellow) SOL-B (Orange)
First (L) On On
Second (2) Off On
Third (D) Off Off
Fourth (OD) On Off

"Source: w4a33.com"
 
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2g Solenoid wiring
Solenoid a - yellow
Solenoid b- orange
Pressure control Solenoid-blue
Lock up Solenoid -red

This info was provided by Jeff Bush at some point while talking in Facebook

For 1g
Valve body solenoids aré only 3
Solenoid a
Solenoid b
Pressure control
 
Transmission Pump
This is the pump for the fluid circuit. This is the heart of the transmission. The 1G and 2G pumps are discontinued. The part number is MD73
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5138.
 
W4a33 pump removal from trans
  • This was posted by
  • 1990TSIAWDTALON
Steps

1.take the converter off
2. remove the 6, 12mm bolts that hold the front pump in
3. There are the two holes that the pump have in it for the pump removal tool to go into. Yo can use two 12 x 1.25mm size Bolt both have to be longer than the original pump bolts .
4 . Screw in both threads at steps until bolts push the pump AND release the oil pump
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2.now clean all AND check for debrys or scratches



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*Smaller gear always should be with the points upside

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Be carefully with check Ball , its position Is marked on picture (part 10 on diagram
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3. Replace gear seal
This have and small retainer that should be removed to change the seal
Parts 5 AND 6 on diagram
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7.clean the 2 washer at hub and reinstall using some lube
AND now oil pump Is ready to be bolted again
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I also "Scribe" a line around the inside of the bellhousing area BEFORE I remove the converter so that I know when it is properly indexed. A sharpie would work but probably wipe off. You can see my scribe mark in post #13.
 
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