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1G W4a33 blows pumps like a $5 hooker

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Spector5

10+ Year Contributor
274
6
Jul 31, 2011
holland, Michigan
Short story long.

Have a buddy running a w4a33 auto.
He’s been through three pumps in just under 6 months.

Car went 300 miles and then lost the pump. Replaced the pump and then made it 20+ miles. Then that pump broke.

By the third time, he asked for my help as I’ve rebuilt a handful of autos and said I wasn’t the best at it but I’ll take a look and help him figure it out.

So we replaced the pump for a third time, did a quick inspection of some of the internals. It all checked out and within spec. Also, replaced the torque converter. Installed transmission and the first thing I noticed after installled was the 1/2+ gap between torque converter to flexplate(kiggly). So I thought “bingo” the gaps to great so when he tightens the converter to flexplate. It’s disengage the converter from the pump. So, I help him shim it between 1/8-3/16, which is a spec that seems to blanket most applications. Never did find a spec for this trans/engine combo.

However, we got it all back together, added fluid. He pulled it a whole 5’ and bam! There goes pump #3.

We are both a bit lost as to what could be blowing the pumps up..... any help or guidance at this point would be appreciate. Thank you!
 
Was it messing up the pump before the kiggly flexplate? Have you tried using a stock flexplate to see if it will mess up another pump? I attached some diagrams take a look at them maybe your missing something or it is not being installed correctly.
 

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Was it messing up the pump before the kiggly flexplate? Have you tried using a stock flexplate to see if it will mess up another pump? I attached some diagrams take a look at them maybe your missing something or it is not being installed correctly.

He had purchased the car with the kiggly flexplate installed. The kiggly plate did stand out as a concern. As I Am not familiar with aftermarket flex plates.

It is a bit of a red flag to me. It’s all factory components we are mating together other than the flexplate. The excessive clearance between the flexplate and torque converter is my biggest concern. As most factory applications do not require adjusting.
 
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The W4A33 trans is listed as being from a Galant awd. It shouldn't make a difference, but somebody swapped it out along the way. The trans for the Eclipse awd 2.0 is W4A32.

I had a similar problem on a GM trans. The converter and flex plate wouldn't seat completely, so I drew it up tight with the bolts and broke the pump. Turns out, I didn't have both sets of splines lined up when reassembling. Not sure if this is the case on DSMs, but it's worth investigating.
 
The W4A33 trans is listed as being from a Galant awd. It shouldn't make a difference, but somebody swapped it out along the way. The trans for the Eclipse awd 2.0 is W4A32.

I had a similar problem on a GM trans. The converter and flex plate wouldn't seat completely, so I drew it up tight with the bolts and broke the pump. Turns out, I didn't have both sets of splines lined up when reassembling. Not sure if this is the case on DSMs, but it's worth investigating.

I believe you're incorrect and have the two backwards. As the W4A33 is what I have pulled from 2 Talons. The W4A32 came in the AWD Gallant.
 
What is the setup? Is it a 6-bolt in a 2g?

He is running all 1g components. 1g w4a33 trans, TC, 6 bolt block.

Aftermarket components related are:
- kiggly flexplate
- kiggly front and end clutches
- forced four shift box(he says it’s at factory line pressure) I should verify, but for now will take his word for it.
 
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X2*^ or is it a 2g trans in a 1g?

You sound competent enough to make sure the converter is seated properly on the input shaft before tightening everything.



On a side note... how are you getting replacement pumps?


That is correct. After ensuring the tc is seated (3 distinct notches) I measured tc to flexplate clearance. The reading was 1/2”.

From all my experience, that gap/clearance is to great. Which would cause the tc to disengage the pump when pulled flush and tightened to the flexplate. Which is actually the #1 cause for pump failure. That is why I was almost certain we had fixed the issue.

However, with no real spec available anywhere online. My clearance spec. was derived from the industry standard.
 
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The W4A33 trans is listed as being from a Galant awd. It shouldn't make a difference, but somebody swapped it out along the way. The trans for the Eclipse awd 2.0 is W4A32.

I had a similar problem on a GM trans. The converter and flex plate wouldn't seat completely, so I drew it up tight with the bolts and broke the pump. Turns out, I didn't have both sets of splines lined up when reassembling. Not sure if this is the case on DSMs, but it's worth investigating.

W4A33 is the transmission in the auto AWD DSM's. Some parts internally though will show a W4A32 code, as some parts are interchangeable.
 
Sounds like you have a jdm trans. Does it have the torque converter that came with it?

I do not believe he does have the original TC that came with the car. He has replaced the TC twice as each time the pump breaks. It’s clear the TC becomes highly contaminated with metal junks and debri.
 
Is the converter shearing the ears off the pump or is being pulled out of the when drawing it to flywheel? When converter is fully seated in the pump before installing, you should have very little room on the back side to put a finger in between converter and bell housing. That's my guess.
 
Probably a stupid thing, but the flex plate isn't on backwards is it???
 
Sounds like you have the wrong converter. The jdm transmissions have a different sized converter than usdm. That could explain the gap.


That very well could be our problem. Unaware that there was a physical size difference.

Is there a way to verify? Such as measuring the snout diameter and length on the tc? If so, then I’ll have to do some research on those measurements.
 
Here’s a few pics of the trans. I’m sure it doesn’t offer much help other than. Yup it’s a transmission LOL. Having the owner take some tc and flexplate pics later tonight.
 

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That very well could be our problem. Unaware that there was a physical size difference.

Is there a way to verify? Such as measuring the snout diameter and length on the tc? If so, then I’ll have to do some research on those measurements.
I don't have exact specs but the body of the converter is where the differences are.
 
X2*^ or is it a 2g trans in a 1g?

You sound competent enough to make sure the converter is seated properly on the input shaft before tightening everything.



On a side note... how are you getting replacement pumps?


Did the question about getting replacement pumps ever get answered? I'm in need of one.
 
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