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If not, those would look nice on my car
😬

I have a 2gb Eclipse rear
 
Traffic? As in like, your life for your taillights? I don't speak Canadian.
It's a shame, we have free 'u's for words you didn't even think needed them.

But yeah, obviously you'd be joking because you're not a cruel sob, but you'd at least make me think you'd take the slow route as a negotiating tactic.

...right? Then again, ive read things you've written so I'm not so sure.

LOL
 
It's a shame, we have free 'u's for words you didn't even think needed them.

But yeah, obviously you'd be joking because you're not a cruel sob, but you'd at least make me think you'd take the slow route as a negotiating tactic.

...right? Then again, ive read things you've written so I'm not so sure.

LOL


Believe it or not, I'm almost always actually the "nice guy". My partner, no matter who I work with that day, is almost always the bad guy.

I actually enjoy the job and do it because I want to help. So even if you really....really piss me off, I'm not gonna be a total dick unless you absolutely are in your right mind, and you're just objectively faking it/just after drugs.
 
Naw, just playing. I don't get butt hurt about Canadian or Winnipeger jokes either.

Hopefully in the next week or so I'll actually have a useful build update.

*Edit* the only thing I've done recently is picked up a Ridgid 18V 3/8" ratchet. My shoulders can't take the strain when under the car anymore.
 
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Naw, just playing. I don't get butt hurt about Canadian or Winnipeger jokes either.

Hopefully in the next week or so I'll actually have a useful build update.

*Edit* the only thing I've done recently is picked up a Ridgid 18V 3/8" ratchet. My shoulders can't take the strain when under the car anymore.
What about “newfie” jokes? I played hockey in Canada a few years and those cats were straight goofy. Hope there’s no one from Newfoundland here, LOL.
 
Picked up a black top CAS (and a few other items) from that standup dude @jersygsx, hoping it will perhaps help solve my random miss I have been getting for years. It may have been my green top bugging out when hot, not sure. Either way, im curious about testing it.

Checking in with the machine shop on Monday to see if the block is ready. It's still a tad cold to be building it and I don't have a steady heated garage so I'm at a standstill anyway until it warms up another 10 degrees at least.
 
Hmm

Get the entire rotating assembly balanced and delay assembly by ~2 months, or don't.. I need to make a decision fast so that I can get in the queue (or not)..

Manley + Eagle + Stock Crank + ACT Streetlite

There are two shops within, what, 500km+ that do it and they know it. $500 to balance, 2 month wait.
My RPM target is well below 8k.
 
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Gotsta check the ACT flywheel for step height so I grabbed it back from the machine shop. Whilst I was there I figured, they're already balancing shit, why not have them also file my rings down as well? They'll be a lot faster at it, they do it for a living since they're only one of a small number of engine builders in these parts, and it costs as much as the Proform ring filer I bought and will now return does.

I sometimes have a habit of sanding things a bit too far, even when I'm trying not to. I have a heavy hand, I suppose. That's one of the reasons I didn't do the drywall finishing in my basement this time around
 
This came installed with the car, which I removed when I got the car, just because I didn't want to try and tune with something that might be defective.

Wondering if I should put it back on.. it's an older HKS Twin Power ignition box. I probably should have taken pictures before I removed it because I have no idea where I can find an install manual for our coils

IMG-20220505-WA0007.jpg
 
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Nice. New ACT Streetlite measured out .608-.609 on both outside and inside. I only had one .609 so I think some debris got caught under because I measured from the other side of the post and it was .608 again.

Post-measurements zeroed back out when on step so I know the dial indicator didn't shift.
 
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For anyone wondering what my setup was, it was a 12" section of 1.5"X1/8 steel angle, with a hole drilled in the center just large enough to jam the dial indicator body nose into. A couple of super glued magnet discs on each side (not glued to the steel, just to each other) allowed me to center-ish the indicator in its range since it's only 0-1".
Magnets go on the outer steps of each "set" of three and zero on the middle step. Then carefully allow the indicator to fall onto the friction surface and count rotations and final settle.

If everything is straight you should be able to measure across the entire diameter as well.

I figure if I was doing something wrong here I wouldn't be getting repeatable results regardless of where I measured and definitely not right in the spec range.

This is basically RREs posted method just with angle instead of square.

PXL_20240323_014924506.jpg


PXL_20240323_014933173.jpg
 
Disassembled head, ready for a good bath and a tiny deck surface cleanup. Can definitely see where the block surface wasn't flat.. that's why they took 0.006 off it.

First off, I think I will open up that head oil port a bit more.

PXL_20240323_015417709.jpg
 
Nice work. Are you dealing with Competition or Piston Ring? I just dropped off my Neon cylinder heads at PR today - they did my block & crank work, and they've done family projects for decades. In case you're considering selling the ol B16G, I'm not against taking it back in the future either, just in case I go full resto.
 
Nice work. Are you dealing with Competition or Piston Ring? I just dropped off my Neon cylinder heads at PR today - they did my block & crank work, and they've done family projects for decades. In case you're considering selling the ol B16G, I'm not against taking it back in the future either, just in case I go full resto.
You're back eh? Noice!
Comp did my head work a few years back, cut my seats with a bent pilot and didn't check afterwards even though I asked them before if they check their work with every valve and was assured they did. They sourced a new pilot and redid them which did the job but ever since I've been weary. . It just reminded me too much of Heads Up!


So I took it to PR. They've done headwork for me in the past and a friend works on the service side. They bored, decked, girdle-align honed the block, and opened up the big end of my eagle H beams a half thou since it was measuring .0015-.0018 clearance.
Overall it took four months, some of that because I didn't have all the parts, mainly the girdle.

The head I will take to PR as well most likely again

Now (most of..) the rotating assembly is at Brazier to be balanced and they'll do my rings. I'll be dropping my flywheel and the other three sets of rings this week but it's a 1-1.5 month queue right now due to dirt track season.

That's ok, when it's ready it will be a stable temp outside and comfortable.

The flywheel that came off had a step of .617. clutch still grabbed and mostly held but it was basically new. Oh well, out with the old anyway.

The 16g, I don't know.. I like having a backup and it's got a special place in my heart now. She's got a bit of play but the fact that I put over 20k on it and it was my first turbo rebuild ever, on my dining room table to boot, speaks that I didn't do a completely asinine job. But I do have the b16g that came with this car, the motor being from an Evolution VR4 . That one I could part with, but you'd have to see if it's rebuildable.
 
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Enlarged and chamfered the head oil port a bit more. First time was pretty light

PXL_20240323_204333987.jpg


PXL_20240323_205410369.jpg


Also picked up a 11.6" touchscreen LCD to replace the 7" I used in the double din spot on my 1g. Only a modest resolution bump to 1366x768 from the whatever x 600 it was before, but the biggest plus is the bigger screen space makes for more accurate touchin' and readin'

I'm thinking I'll weld together a bracket/holder that bolts to the front passenger seat post for this guy, so it can sit down low.
What a PITA it was to get this thing working with rpi, and in the end, I didn't actually change anything
I don't know why it suddenly decided to just
... Work.

The box is where the rpi, relay, adjustable buck converter, and lil' attiny85 which I use to control startup/shutdown and the led ringed button there.

PXL_20240324_000924850.jpg



Wondering if I should upgrade to the Pi 5 to get better bootup and maybe logging latency, but I really don't want to go through the work of getting ecmlink to work on the new one. I had enough fun tweaking that java I/O shit already years ago.
 
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Not a big update by any means today but:

- I solved the undervolt issue of the bigger LCD. Basically, without having to open up the LCD and start soldering direct power, run two USB with both the power-only and the data+power's 5v leads directly into my power supply (ie. Buck converter with low side filtering and reserve cap). I'd like to add some meatier caps but then I'd need to also add an inrush current limiter and I just couldn't be bothered to at the moment.

- dropped the head, flywheel, and other three sets of rings off at the machine shop. Figure I'll let them give the head a bath and take off a bit from the deck to clean it up a little

Rings will be gapped 0.021 top & 0.024 bottom

I think I'm going to have them double check the bores too, make sure I'm .004 ptw with whatever piston order the balancing calls for

For mounting the 11.6" LCD, Im considering
Double sided tape to the tunnel kick panel. I don't want to screw it but I might be SOL for weight. My next thought is rigging up something that I can screw that mount to that's bolted to either the center console down low or .. I have no idea.
 
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