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420A (VIDEO) what color smoke is this?

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I couldn't hear the audio because my GF is listening to something, but from the video it looks white.

Is it only doing it on start up? I'd say valve stem seals.
 
During startup it doesnt smoke. But after I accelerate in high rpms I get smoke. I just cant decode the color. But anyways. I think I just need to retorque the head
 
Every "smoke" has a certain smell to it I have found over the years. That appeared to be "white" smoke coming out which tells me that she is running "rich" or there is incomplete combustion going on inside the cylinders. A clogged up P.C.V will also let some oil into the intake and it will burn out as "white" in color as well. A vacuum leak will also make her run pig rich too but, that will cause some drive ability problems as your are driving and coming to a stop (some cars just die and you have to restart the car and it will go again until you come to another stop; then it dies again). If you have ever been behind a car that was running rich you will know it because the smell will burn your eyes and make it hard to breathe. It is possible if she is burning oil but you will know it in between oil changes because it will be more than 1 Quart low by 5K miles. I still do my oil changes every 5K because I know by then my 4G63 inherently consumes at least 1/2 to 3/4's of a quart of oil by then. Oil burn may not be applicable to your problems but. just keep that in mind. Easiest thing I would do is replace the P.C.V and go from there if it has never been done. Secondly I would look at your spark plugs and wires to see if it is about time for replacement. Last is timing, if you have never done a timing belt as of yet then I would get that done first, then look into the smoke issue soon as the timing has been adjusted. You also stated that you may need to "re-torque" the head, well before you do that check the compression within each cylinder. If the compression is within specs then you do not need to re-torque the head because there was no problem found there.
 
Well I did a head replacement. I think I just didnt retorque it right because I see smoke in between the manifolds
 
Please describe when you say you see "smoke in between the manifolds. Could there be a crack or gasket not sealing perhaps? Any issues when driving or is it only when your accelerating from a stop do you notice that the smoke comes from the exhaust.
 
Well I do know I used a gauge torque wrench and I see smoke in between the intake mqnifpld and exhaist manifold and thensame smoke is going out the muffler. Same smell. Also. I filled up my coolant now I open up the radiator cap. I dont sre coolant bubbles

sorry for being so vague, my galaxy s3's keyboard was really annoying.
but anyways, heres the heads up


so, i got the car, and all it did was smoke. so i went ahead and tried to get my valve seals done, and decided that i might as well put all new valves, head gasket, and all new gaskets all around.

so after all the trial and errors, i finally got my car back to work

but before i got my car to work, i used a manual gauge torque not the automatic click type. so i followd the sequence, and i got my head bolts from ebay, just found a few torque specs online and decided i should just try it out and just put everything back, and if it works, it works. so it finally works. and the type of torque wrench was the first time for me even using it. so basically, i dont feel confident that i did it right, or either used the wrong torque spec for my headbolts. they were ebay, didnt say if it was oem, aftermarket. just bolts.

but anyways
now i got my car to work, but in between the headgasket, i can see smoke coming out of the intake manifold, and a little bit from the bottom of the exhaust manifold.

i put coolant in my car the other day, and from what i remembered when i tried diagnosing the car from i first had it, i remembered my radiator, when the radiator cap was off, it was bubbling. now my coolant inside the radiator does not bubble. so that maybe is a sign that its leaking coolant?

but heres a few other information

i had a 90 psi dry compression on all 4 cylinders
i can not tell if the smoke is either white with a tint of blue, or just plain white.
i didnt torque the manifolds. and other people said that i just might not be burning fuel because my car does consume alot of fuel. I think way too much fuel sometimes. 10dollars of gas goes away after a trip from my house to the mall which is only like 15 minutes away.

well let me know, i really want my tailpipe to just stop smoking after accelerating at high rpms..
i just want a healthy car so i can move on in life! LOL
 
With it consuming $10 worth of fuel in a 15 minute drive therein lies the problem. In order to solve this your going to have to identify the culprit, this is going to take some more diagnosing. Good news is that there are only a few certain components that will cause excess fuel to enter the cylinders. Right off the top check the vacuum going to the fuel pressure regulator, make sure coolant sensor is reading correctly from start up to normal operating temperature, a bad or failing oxygen sensor , an injector that is partially stuck or clogged open; bad MAS, or intake leak around the throttle body gasket or seals. Also would want to check base timing and make sure the timing is right by all means necessary. It may not be a bad idea to re-torque those head bolts with the correct click type torque wrench; it never hurts to rule out the obvious at this point.
 
But does that fuel problem make the smoke? ?

anyways, so does that smoke look like its a piston ring problem? what other issues comes along with piston rings?
 
Yes, it will smoke particularly when under heavy acceleration because there is more fuel that can be introduced and the ignition system cannot handle the excess fuel, it is only trying to maintain 14.7:1 but somewhere in that equation there is more fuel than is needed. Take a spark plug out and check to see if there is black soot all over the end of the plug. A piston ring can cause blow by where oil can be introduced into the combustion process, normally you will see a dark brownish stain on the end of the plug because the oil is being injected into the intake; this is usually caused by a clogged P.C.V. and or low cylinder compression due to bent valves or failing piston rings. Normally you can do a compression check and that will tell you if there is possible internal problems; but you have 90 p.s.i across all 4 cylinders so i.m.o that rules out the internal part of the engine that we cannot see into. My best bet is put it on a scanner and check to verify that all sensors are working and you have no pending trouble codes. If sensors check good then you have several options available that includes tearing her back down and doing the job all over again. A rich condition is simply too much fuel is being introduced and the ignition system cannot handle the extra fuel. Try to focus on the problem and not so much about the smoke. The main focus is that she is consuming too much fuel and when you solve that problem then your smoke will go away, that I promise!
 
do you think my pcv valve is acting up because i am missing bolts on the valve cover ?
 
okay, i went to the parts store and i had them read my engine light code. the code states that my air intake isn't plugged.

i also, had them check the smoke in the back of my car.

i was told that it only smokes only during high acceleration, when i rev it up to 5-6 rpms. he said i was really pushing it.

also, when i drive, my steering wheel likes to shake.

anyways, where should i go from here?
 
Yes, I am sure that would cause some problems. Valve cover leaking will take away the vacuum needed to open the valve. My best estimates on P.C.V. valve is to replace ever 15K whether it needs it or not. I do mine every 3rd oil change because I know by then I have 15K on it by then. I would seal up that valve cover with the correct bolts and torque to specs.
 
Ok is there a tutorial on how to replace the pcv valve or its this vacuum looking hose that were both talking about?
 
I'm sorry i do not have the part number for your particular engines P.C.V valve, maybe someone can be nice and help us out on that aspect. Not sure about the tutorial but if your going to keep the car I would suggest you get the Factory Service Manuals. Do not get the Haynes or Chilton as they leave out quite a bit of detailed information. Get the manuals like you would find at the dealership or on C.D. . Definitely check all vacuum hoses going too and from the throttle body and intake. Check the smaller 3/32nd vacuum hose that is going to the fuel pressure regulator as well. You may have more than one problem that is why I have pretty much suggested you do the easy things first before anything else and the hose and the P.C.V valve could be a problem. A good visual inspection with a good drop light or flash light may help in this situation, what I suggest are maintenance items anyway so it is not like your going to waste any time or effort replacing something you find maybe defective. Let me see if I can dig up some more info.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-bolt-tech/251451-pcv-valve-hose.html
 
well i dont think the streering wheel is much of a problem compared to the smoking problem cause it could just be your tires needing balanced or you need a new rotor what color is the smoke??
 
Reving out of gear won't put as much smoke out compared to being under a load. Do a compression and leak down test. That will tell you if it's in the block or head. Then go from there, the stearing wheel is in the tires or suspension. Tie rods, control arm , bushings ect...
 
The vibration issue is most likely wheel balance related.. depending on color of smoke check compression and leak down... with car running squeeze the radiator hoses.. if they are hard as rock its a blown head gasket..
 
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