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Varying Clutch Engagement [Merged 1-9] bleeding air floor stuck grinding

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BoostInsideTSi

15+ Year Contributor
200
1
May 5, 2004
Aurora, Illinois
Okay, folks, for some unknown reason, we're now getting three threads a week started about clutch malfunctions.
The usual cause is that the system hasn't been properly bled.

Have at it.


I put in a used, but in good condition master cylinder, to replace the one I had before with a broken rubber seal. I did not bleed any components, I simply took out the old one, and bolted the new one up. Then I proceeded to fill the reservoir with dot 3 brake fluid. Bubbles rose to the top of the reservoir, then I topped it off after the fluid ran down into the system. I looked at the clutch pedal and noticed it was still sitting on the floor. I tried pulling it up off the floor, but it only went up a few inches. Probably some adjusting that needs to be done with the rod is causing that. Anyway when I pull it up there is quite a bit of resistance, where when I let go the pedal just pulls right back to the floor. I've heard there is a vacuum going on, where with air in the system, it is just pulling that sucker right back. I tried pumping the crap out of the pedal with a friend opening the bleeder valve and I just shoot clutch fluid everywhere.. I Stop after about 50 pumps and put more fluid and keep going, but notice no improvement. Does anyone know what I need to do? Can anyone verify it is the air in the system causing my problem? Thank you,
Mike
 
I just put a new engine and tranny in my car. clutch only has like 1000 miles on it. i got it all in fine and started it up and the car wont shift into gear. if i put the tranny in 1st and then start it the wheels spin. So i got a new clutch master and slave cylinders, bled the system and still does the same thing. I am not sure why this is doing this. please help. i need this car on the road bad. thanks guys
 
Are you sure you got the clutch fully bled? Mine involved bleeding it in both directions. I also had to get a SS braided line to stiffen things up as well as a new slave cylinder rod (made mine from grade 8 bolt) to disengage furthur. I have a fidanza 4.3 FYI.
 
its a excedy clutch. i watched that video and that sounds like that could be my problem, i will try that. if that dont work what else could it be.
 
it does move the fork but only like half way in that boot. the pedal still feels wierd even after the bleeding.
 
I had a guy bring a car to me that was doing basically the same thing. I took a look at it and couldn't find anything wrong with it. I pulled the tranny and someone had put the clutch disk in backwards. This will not let the clutch fully disengage. (same problem your having) Not saying that this the problem but it would be a good idea to check. Just a suggestion.
 
just out of curiousity, did you replace the fork and pivot ball when you replaced the clutch?
 
I would do the gear oil first since it's the easiest. That will most likely take care of the weather issues. use redline oil.
 
Check the push rod in the car - I did a clutch job and my push rod had to be adjusted before I could drive the car again. Wouldn't shift into any gear.
 
Whoa...almost forgot about this post. BG Syncroshift was already put into the transmission right before I took posession of it.

It actually ended up needing the clutch to be bled. There was so much air in their that the 1st 6 times I pumped it up and bled it, spit out nothing but air. I bled the clutch and topped her off with some fluid and no problems since.
 
Ok heres the story. i was out for a drive, everything felt fine, i came to a stop, pedal felt alittle soft then it wouldnt go into gear. So i shut it off checked the fluid and it was empty. I didnt see any leaks and everything looked ok. So i filled it up, bled it out. still would not go into gear. I checked Pedal adjustment and seemed fine. I have an act 2600 clutch and act flywheel and a stainless flex line on my 97 tsi awd. Any help would be much appreciated.
 
no i didnt replace the pivot ball. i plan on checking everything you all have suggested hopefully this coming weekend, before dropping the tranny. thanks guys. i will update then.
 
When i bled my clutch in my AWD, for some reason this same thing happened to me.. What seemed to be the problem was, some how we bled to much pressure in the system and it seemed that the slave froze in its place?? (Due to the excessive pressure)..And when we jacked up the car high enough to get my fat head under it, the slave only moved line half the travel it should of moved?? And my pedal felt like it had a ACT 1MILLION pressure plate.LOL..Stiff as f**ck..And I still had OEM clutch at that time? So what I did was loosened the bleeder valve to let off some pressure in the slave and it seemed to engage properly after that... But that left me picking my brain for atleast 6 hours, at the most?? To the OP, does this sound like what your running into???
 
Honestly I just went through this problem with my car and am actually putting it all back together Teusday. The problem is most likely the adjustment man, I cant express that enough. I fiddled and fiddled with it and couldnt get it to work, figured it was something in the trans or clutch. My car had the same EXACT symptoms as you.

I would watch the vid on adjusting the clutch and follow it step by step, no shortcuts, double check everything, bleed the system until you cant move and you'll probably be ok.

Turns out for me that I had overadjusted the MC rod and the PP was not disengaging properly. This put a hot spot in my clutch disk and caused the aforementioned problems.

Once taking the trans back out to see everything was fine I then realized what I did :banghead: ..

Good Luck and keep us posted.
 
So Im having a problem, ever since I bought the car I was always leaking clutch fluid. I replaced the master cylinder with a brand new one and thought it fixed the problem, it started to leak again..I then changed slave cylinder because that was bad as well. I thought everything was perfect!

But I was wrong...I couple days ago I noticed I was still leaking clutch fluid rapidly! I checked and my carpet is full of clutch fluid...So i checked hose that connects resoivor to the master cylinder and everything was good..I looked under to check where exactly it could be leaking from and when I pushed clutch in and out, in and out, I started seeing clutch fluid leaking from the boot of the master cylinder....How can it be leaking?! Its brand new...Does this mean it is bad/defective? :confused:
 
I'd be suprised if a brand new clutch master cylinder leaked. Are your sure it's clutch fluid. Is ther something above the cmc leaking on to it and making it "look like" the cmc?
 
Yea its clutch fluid 100% sure, resovoir loses fluid rapidly. And when I looked under where clutch pedal is, just by pushing it in and out many times, you see drips dropping from the boot where the pedal goes into master cylinder. It was adjusted several times to make pedal feel better, dont know if that could of caused problem.

Damn so I have to get a new one?! I think I bought it from advanced auto parts, there should be warranty but I dont have receipt!!
 
Trying to narrow down all the possibilities and do the free stuff first then start with cheapest tell i get this fixed. My problem is: Clutch engagement kills car in any gear. Chirping noise during clutch engagement. While attempting to start the car turns over but never start, makes the same chirping noise and seems like engine is catching. Pedal was stuck to the floor after sitting for a while, added clutch fluid and moved pedal alot tell pressure built back up.

Any ideas on things to check for that could cause this id appreciate.

Ive been told it could possibly be: Throw Out Bearing, Air in clutch line, Master/Slave cylinder, crankwalk??? Is there a way to check any of these to narrow down my list.
 
I had the same problem....I went to an O'Reilly's store and got a new Master Cylinder. But something didn't look right. It matched up right, but I was still unsure. I ordered one from a Mitsu. dealership, and it cost around $30.00 more, but I put it in instead, took the O'Reilly knock-off back. Hasn't leaked since. The slave, that's another story.
 
I bought my from advance auto parts there is 3 different manufactores. Cheap, cheap and even more cheaper. I had 3 from them. All junk. Got my money back and bought oem one and didnt have anymore problems.
 
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