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2G Valve Cover OEM Color?

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waltah

10+ Year Contributor
368
156
Mar 2, 2011
fairfield, Virginia
95 GS-T arrived here with the valve cover (and several other things) flaking/peeling gold. All clean now, but as part of 'heading in the direction of 'well cared for original' what color was it in the dealer's showroom? I've looked at a lot of pix, many quite striking, but none labeled "This is what it looked like when I popped the hood at the dealership in '95."

Any other 'like OEM' fetishists out there?
 
The USDM 2g came with a raw cast finish from the factory.
 
The USDM 2g came with a raw cast finish from the factory.
^Can confirm. This is the 1,000,000th car from the Normal, IL plant, a '96 GST Spyder, that Mitsubishi kept and put on display every year at Mitsubishi Owner's Day, so we know it's original and unadulterated. All of 328 original miles on the car when these pictures were taken.

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That's what I needed! Here's where it's at as of today. Looks like my spark plug wire cover is from a different year -- does anyone recognize that?

The strut bar and aftermarket BOV are prior owner mods -- I'll probably leave them alone. The see-through belt cover will go when I connect with an OE version. And I'll clean up the valve cover a bit more next time it has to come off.

No telling when I find the heat shield for the manifold -- they're out there but not in my price range.

Thanks for the help, fellow DSMer's!
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I have a sandblasting cabinet at work running glass beads. Does a really nice job looks factory. Only took about 10 minutes to blast. You have to remove the baffling to clean it all out once your done. You don’t want that stuff in your motor. Before and after pictures.

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The cleanest look I'm aware of for raw aluminum parts like VC's, motor mounts, coolant system parts and so forth is vapor honing - basically wet bead blasting. Leaves the material perfectly clean without tearing it up.

Raw aluminum doesn't look nice for long either. Airplane guys use metal-fixing solutions to prevent it oxidizing.

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^Can confirm. This is the 1,000,000th car from the Normal, IL plant, a '96 GST Spyder, that Mitsubishi kept and put on display every year at Mitsubishi Owner's Day, so we know it's original and unadulterated. All of 328 original miles on the car when these pictures were taken.

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Bet it is still leaking oil hahaha...
 
Looked okay to me... :idontknow:

(This is the same engine, same car, 1,000,000th vehicle, referenced above)

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Who's got the link to the Valve Cover visual identification post? Or did I imagine that?

The cleanest look I'm aware of for raw aluminum parts like VC's, motor mounts, coolant system parts and so forth is vapor honing - basically wet bead blasting. Leaves the material perfectly clean without tearing it up.

Raw aluminum doesn't look nice for long either. Airplane guys use metal-fixing solutions to prevent it oxidizing.

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More information please? - "metal-fixing solutions to prevent oxidizing."
 
Can also confirm the same for EUDM 2G, this was my first DSM in complete bone stock condition, was a '96 GS.
Now that's interesting. Looking at it I kept getting 'tilt! tilt! tilt!' until the 'EU' finally penetrated. Yeah, the NA models got Mitsu engines over there.

Lots to like about that layout -- bigger battery, looks like the windshield washer reservoir is up front where you can see it, there isn't the complicated (leak prone?) plumbing to fill it, and a leak doesn't slosh around under your spare tire until -- after ruining the jack, tools, and fiberboard cover -- it rusts through. The location of that reservoir in the turbo cars is about the only thing I'd call a design error in the GS-T/GSX ... Maybe I'm wrong, maybe nobody ever has trouble with them but I'll bet not.

Although the layout of the air intake runs a close second -- what a (female dog) to assemble/disassemble, change the filter, etc.

My car has the warning light for 'reservoir low' so instead of filling it every time I check fluids as in the other Mitsus here I'll put in a fixed amount (not enough to stand in that fill tube) whenever the light comes on.

Did the European models come with a full size spare? A quick look makes it appear that -- as with the Expo LRVs -- the spare stowage could have accommodated the full size. I'll probably never get around to doing the mod but I'd rather have a full wheel in there than the extra 0.13 MPG (or whatever it is) that the temporary spare weight saving gives you. Forcing you to find a tire shop today rather than wait until you're home.

That's a 1G 2.0L Eclipse plug cover, indicated by the gold lettering, after build date of March 1989.

Spark Plug Cover Differences
Thank you! So I'm looking for a swap with someone who has a plain black one ... someday.
 
OEM fan, right here. I just get such a kick out of some of the details that originally came on the car. Like the texture on the upper rad hose; has a sort of X-webbing thing going on. And those quaint double-wire hose clamps. As much as some folks like swapping everything for their own custom look, I like having it appear as close as I can to factory fresh.
 
Now that's interesting. Looking at it I kept getting 'tilt! tilt! tilt!' until the 'EU' finally penetrated. Yeah, the NA models got Mitsu engines over there.

Lots to like about that layout -- bigger battery, looks like the windshield washer reservoir is up front where you can see it, there isn't the complicated (leak prone?) plumbing to fill it, and a leak doesn't slosh around under your spare tire until -- after ruining the jack, tools, and fiberboard cover -- it rusts through. The location of that reservoir in the turbo cars is about the only thing I'd call a design error in the GS-T/GSX ... Maybe I'm wrong, maybe nobody ever has trouble with them but I'll bet not.

Although the layout of the air intake runs a close second -- what a (female dog) to assemble/disassemble, change the filter, etc.

My car has the warning light for 'reservoir low' so instead of filling it every time I check fluids as in the other Mitsus here I'll put in a fixed amount (not enough to stand in that fill tube) whenever the light comes on.

Did the European models come with a full size spare? A quick look makes it appear that -- as with the Expo LRVs -- the spare stowage could have accommodated the full size. I'll probably never get around to doing the mod but I'd rather have a full wheel in there than the extra 0.13 MPG (or whatever it is) that the temporary spare weight saving gives you. Forcing you to find a tire shop today rather than wait until you're home.
Hah, trust me they aren't all that different. The front windshield washer reservoir sits under the fuse box but takes up the hole where your turbo upper intercooler pipe would go, so it's either or. These cars are still equipped with the small 2L rear wiper jet reservoir which is tucked behind the trunk panel. I actually installed one like that on my Talon and completely removed the bulky reservoir that normally sits under the spare wheel; I've got enough space to put all the first aid/extinguisher/oils in there now. However the spare tire is the same for both cars, which is the tiny one that you shouldn't even mount on an AWD car.

As for the air filter, the box works exactly the same as on the turbo models, it's a matter of popping the 4 clips and prying a little.
 
OEM fan, right here. I just get such a kick out of some of the details that originally came on the car. Like the texture on the upper rad hose; has a sort of X-webbing thing going on. And those quaint double-wire hose clamps. As much as some folks like swapping everything for their own custom look, I like having it appear as close as I can to factory fresh.
Singing from the same hymnal here, Mech! I don't have a principle against mods though -- just prefer original unless I can convince myself that modded is better. For example I might actually do a mod to carry a full-size spare. I've used the temporary one a couple times and it turns an hour long tire emergency (while you change it) into a day or more while you find a tire place to buy new, most likely a new pair -- business I don't need during a vacation and would rather give my home town shop.

Those aren't actually double-wire hose clamps in the photo. They're a single strip of spring stock formed small enough to fit very tightly. Many advantages: (1) Very fast, using the right special tool -- does anyone have or know a source for it? Would have to actually engage the ends so the clamp can't fly off. (2) Cheap. (3) Absolutely uniform clamping tension -- no slipping, no cutting the hose, and maintains tension as the hose deforms during its service life. (4) Won't rust into permanence and easy to demolish in place using a Dremel if some worst-imaginable situation (parting out a wreck?) makes that necessary.

The least-fun job I ever did for seven hours was remove a double-wire clamp from the gas tank fill nipple on an Expo LRV. Solid rust and no easy way to get at the thing to cut it. Open gas tank -- no shower of sparks from a Dremel allowed there.

And disadvantages: (1) Awkward and somewhat dangerous if you don't have the right tool. (2) Like all clamps it does sink into the hose; when reinstalling a hose with these clamps the service manual cautions to put the clamp back in the exact same position. I'd guess that these were always replaced when the hose was serviced and that would be the right answer for a professional.

There seem to be a few two-wire clamps on my '95 GS-T on smaller hoses that need more than the small spring clips. For example the automatic transmission oil cooler has two wire clamps.
 
Thank you! So I'm looking for a swap with someone who has a plain black one ... someday.
The one you have is a little more rare than the plain one, should be easy to find someone to trade if you post an ad. Also it looks like you’ll have to drill out a bolt on the exhaust manifold if you plan on installing a heat shield 👎. IIrc there was a heat shield listed in the classifieds a couple weeks ago
 
I would like to get a handle on the combo of both valve and plug covers

Just in the pictures on this thread we can see:

GVR4 - ?

??? - Diamond Star "Mitsubishi" with "DOHC 16 VALVE" text - red with silver letters - ? Plug cover with ??

1G Mitsu - "Mitsubishi" with "DOHC 16 VALVE" text - silver with red letters - ? Plug cover with ??

95-99
2G Talon - "16 VALVE" with "DOHC 2000" text - cast aluminum - Black plug cover with a solid line (color?)
2G Mitsu - "16 VALVE" with "DOHC 2000" text - cast aluminum - Black plug cover with "Diamond Star Mitsubishi" text

Please fill in the rest - I think the EVOIII has yet another color?
 
Iirc the evos had a slightly gun-metal colored cover. I tried to recreate it on my own but it came out too dark.

Edit- it’s more of a warm grey
 
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