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Valve Cover Baffles

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oneslowwdsm

10+ Year Contributor
858
123
Mar 30, 2009
Spring, Texas
I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with running no baffles under the valve cover? I understand there are theories of why they should be ran and theories that they can be left out but no one with first hand experience. I'm running 2 -10an fittings off the side of the valve cover to a sealed catch can that goes to the turbo intake and the PCV port running to another catch can and back into the intake manifold.

My issue is they were taken off for powdercoat and not reattached and would rather leave them out so I don't have to worry about them coming undone or loose.
 
Well there is a member that sells them if you want them in, they have to be tig tac'd otherwise, if you are really wondering about without it, your catch can would just fill up with oil.

I dont run unbaffled, but i have a gatorade bottle vented catch can with the stock sized lines so far.
 
You'll want baffles, especially if they'll cover the breather outlets. I have two outlets on the front of my valve cover which unfortunately aren't covered by the baffles and I lose a lot of oil to the catch can. It's to the point where I'm going to pull off the valve cover and have some small baffles welded in front of the outlets (provided there's clearance) to cut down on the oil loss. To be clear, I lose enough oil that the catch can fills up and then sucks it into the intake tube.

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I have these baffles in my valve cover and they are great quality and can be more easily welded in as they are aluminum unlike the stock baffles.
 
OP: Are you having blow by issues? I would assume so with running 2 catch cans and all...
Well, if you have to, then yes it has to be baffled. I recently saw an oil cap extension that had AN fittings on it. That seems like a good idea if it were baffled correctly.
Just take it to a shop and have em tac it. Should be no more than 20 bucks or so.


Personally i havent even hooked my catch can up. Even after i found my cylinder #2 psi down to ~95 and 30% leakdown past rings, the compressor is clean and no oil had entered IC piping. Most people dont run the most essential piece: A kynar 3/8" check valve in between stock PCV and IM. That solved my CC pressure problem instantly. Then again, rings get old, blow by happens.
 
Well there is a member that sells them if you want them in, they have to be tig tac'd otherwise, if you are really wondering about without it, your catch can would just fill up with oil.

I dont run unbaffled, but i have a gatorade bottle vented catch can with the stock sized lines so far.

Thanks, I completely forgot someone makes these.

You'll want baffles, especially if they'll cover the breather outlets. I have two outlets on the front of my valve cover which unfortunately aren't covered by the baffles and I lose a lot of oil to the catch can. It's to the point where I'm going to pull off the valve cover and have some small baffles welded in front of the outlets (provided there's clearance) to cut down on the oil loss. To be clear, I lose enough oil that the catch can fills up and then sucks it into the intake tube.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



I have these baffles in my valve cover and they are great quality and can be more easily welded in as they are aluminum unlike the stock baffles.

Yeah I'm most likely going to buy an aluminum one and weld it in place. Thanks.

OP: Are you having blow by issues? I would assume so with running 2 catch cans and all...
Well, if you have to, then yes it has to be baffled. I recently saw an oil cap extension that had AN fittings on it. That seems like a good idea if it were baffled correctly.
Just take it to a shop and have em tac it. Should be no more than 20 bucks or so.


Personally i havent even hooked my catch can up. Even after i found my cylinder #2 psi down to ~95 and 30% leakdown past rings, the compressor is clean and no oil had entered IC piping. Most people dont run the most essential piece: A kynar 3/8" check valve in between stock PCV and IM. That solved my CC pressure problem instantly. Then again, rings get old, blow by happens.

Yes I'm running Calans method bigger improved over stock ventilation setup. With my old setup (listed in my profile) I had a check valve in place and with a single catch can setup on a stock valve cover. Oil was still shooting past my oil cap and the dipstick tube would come up at WOT. (had to crimp it to temporarily solve the issue) My new setup is even bigger and I'm running more boost therefore the bigger catch can setup is in place. And before you say it, yes I tried a new dip stick and oil cap.
 
Im running two 10an fitting in stock locations with no baffle. I only get about 2 oz of oil every 400 miles and about 8 oz of water/fuel mix. Im running my two to a baffled box and then vented with a scavenger to my intake.
 
You'll want baffles, especially if they'll cover the breather outlets. I have two outlets on the front of my valve cover which unfortunately aren't covered by the baffles and I lose a lot of oil to the catch can. It's to the point where I'm going to pull off the valve cover and have some small baffles welded in front of the outlets (provided there's clearance) to cut down on the oil loss. To be clear, I lose enough oil that the catch can fills up and then sucks it into the intake tube.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


I have these baffles in my valve cover and they are great quality and can be more easily welded in as they are aluminum unlike the stock baffles.
Hey there old post I know.. But i was wondering if you were using your PCV valve with the -10an fitting and if you were sucking oil in the intake through the PCV? I am also guessing that the baffle you are using is ravenfab correct? When it was welded did it distort the paint on the other side?
Thank you
 
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