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use threadlocker on crankshaft sprocket bolt?

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1Gina2G

10+ Year Contributor
810
2
May 6, 2011
Beaufort, South_Carolina
I got the engine out of my car finally, having trouble removing the crankshaft sprocket bolt so Im going to make the tool to grip the sprocket and flywheel better.

was wondering when I'm putting everything back together, should I use threadlocker on the cranksprocket or just only torque it to 85ft. pounds? Was just wondering since I read they come from the factory with it on there.

would it be a good / bad idea to use threadlocker on any other of the sprockets / pulleys? I know the oil punp sprocket's a good idea, some people even put a spot of weld on the nut, I understand why since my oil pump sprocket has came loose twice with only just tightening the nut.
 
You don't have to just make sure it's tight. I used a impact gun it took the bolt out in a matter of seconds. To tighten it you need a very strong impact gun.
 
well I was using the 22mm socket on the sprocket bolt with an air impact and it wasn't budging. Then I had my dad hold try to unbolt the sprocket while I held the flywheel bolts and all that hept happening was the flywheel bolts unbolted.

haven't tried a torch though, but I guess I have to buy one since all I have is a small propane torch.

hopefully the tool I'm going to make or end up buying will help out, just hoping I don't break it like I've seen some people do on here. OMG
 
Im guessing your talking about the large nut on the front of the crank at the belts right? Go to any autoparts store and rent a flexplate rotating tool. You can buy one at harbor freight if you have one near by for like 20 bux. Or just take a large bladed flathead screw driver and have someone grip the starter ring teeth with it. Put it against the bellhousing so it doesnt slip and gives you leverage. then you can tq on the other end without rotating the crank from TDC.

Something that I learned on my MK3 supra was to use a long breaker bar, pull your MPI fuse, and crank the engine a bit. Normally that will break that sucker loose in no time.
 
OH, "Pitty flipping Pooh"..put the socket on a spanner bar, lay the bar on the axle, unplug the MPI fuse from the battery fuse block so the injectors won't fire, and bump the starter so the crank itself can loosen that bolt.

Then, bolt the pulley back on the sprocket and get you a chain wrench to wrap around the pulley and use the torque wrench with that same socket to play "tug of war" with the wrench and the torque wrench to get it back to 85ft lbs...
 
it has an open square 1/2" just like a socket, plug any good IR impact in there, run it at 90-120psi and it should come off easy.... flywheel bolts shouldn't even be in the picture here...

my IR (ingersol rand) impact is an older one and at 95psi has 700ft/lb torque...using extensions and sockets dramitcally lessens the "impact" from the hammering action of an impact gun...just use it like i said and it shuould zip right off (you did remove the 4 x 12mm pulley bolts first right/?)
 
I disagree on the square drive. You can use it but I don't. Ask me how I know. Use the socket, a good gun and you should be fine. No threadlocker required. I have literally removed hundreds. You guys ever notice the hole in the fender liner? You can tighten that crank bolt fully after the car is on the ground. Put the wheels down, put it in gear with park brake on and tighten the bolt. 80-94 is no problem that way.
 
^^ Thats how a real dsmer does it.
Take that impact put it on there and keep cranking it has to come Loose and when you put it back on put a lot of grease on the bolt. The first time I took mine off I had to hold it on there for about 10sec. I wouldn't recommend a torch though.
 
I disagree on the square drive. You can use it but I don't. Ask me how I know. Use the socket, a good gun and you should be fine. No threadlocker required. I have literally removed hundreds. You guys ever notice the hole in the fender liner? You can tighten that crank bolt fully after the car is on the ground. Put the wheels down, put it in gear with park brake on and tighten the bolt. 80-94 is no problem that way.

the reason i say use the square drive is because some of the "impact" is lost at the connection between the socket and impact's drive square. If you can remove it with a socket all the better. If not removing a link that's taknig power from your tool is just extra help.

Ever see the old school torque sticks? they were long extended sockets for impacts that limited torque for installing wheels, they limited it by their flex and freeplay ...the more extensions and sockets (and connections between them) allreduce power to the bolt... using three 2" extensions will cut power dramticallly more than using one 6" extension when it comes to an impact, it's beacuse they don't place steady pressure on the bolt, they hit it with hundreds of small hits and any play/connection causes some of that power to be lost, that's all i was getting at
 
Thanks for all the replies everyone, much appreciated! Just so everyone's on the same page here, I already pulled the engine with the transmission, and I already seperated the transmission / starter from the block, so for now there will be no bumping of the starter LOL

As mentinoned earlier, I've already tried an air impact gun on this bolt, using a HUGE air compressor thats about 4 ft. tall, I used oil in the gun. Was wondering if an electric impact is better than air impact? I have a battery impact but that's probably weaker.

Was thinking of having 3 seperate people to hold the block down (it's sitting on a strong wood table I built just for this) - 1 to grip the flywheel, one to directly grip the crankshaft with the special tool, and then my dad who's the strongest, unbolt the actual crank-sprocket bolt.

Was unaware having the 22mm on the impact actual takes some power out of the gun, going to try and see if it budges without the socket and just the square right now.
 
when i was building the motor for my 8g galant, i used a good sized c-clamp and used some old belt so not to mess up the edges of the crank pulley. i then tightened the clamp down as tight as possible and positioned it so the clamp would get stuck on part of the motor. (if you cant find a spot use a piece of 2x4 or metal bar wedged between the c-clamp opening and hole.

this will prevent the crank from spinning. then either with a breaker bar with a quick snap or using an impact gun you should be able to crack the bolt loose.

you may need to play with the clamp and get a good bite but it should work after a few tries
 
the reason i say use the square drive is because some of the "impact" is lost at the connection between the socket and impact's drive square. If you can remove it with a socket all the better. If not removing a link that's taknig power from your tool is just extra help.

I disagree that a socket will make you lose power. An extension yes but not just the socket. I say don't use the hole only because I have seen those bolts crack when using the square hole. I've hit a ton of them with an impact with no issues. The cheap guns won't cut it. I threw my cheap gun in the trash. I don't use an extension either. Motor is out of the car? I agree with the other guys, wedge a 2x4 in there and have at it.
 
Yeah using the impact on the square didn't seem to make any difference, neither did the homemade special tool for the crankshaft :(

Does anybody have any pics about wedging the 2x4? How big of a 2x4? Just trying to figure out the best spot.
 
Yeah I'm not sure what my dad has is a cheap gun, not sure what brand is best but was thinking of getting a new one since it doesn't seem as strong as it used to be.
 
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