Updated driveshaft options?

[Misterflipster]

I found an old thread regarding "full driveshaft replacement" but the company no longer makes them, i know STM makes an option to replace the first 2 of 3 pieces. Problem is the most critical, the rear going to diff would not be upgraded which at this point in time to me makes it pointless? Is there any other options for 500+hp cars because mine is toast and i will be removing mine to inspect it, however id like an upgraded one if possible...halp

 

[Adam]

Check out this thread-

Converting driveshaft to 1310 U-joints

Starting this project from an idea Jake Montgomery did for his car but for the 3K rear diff.Last year I broke 2 OEM U-joints on the tail section of my driveshaft and we know the cost of the OEM parts are getting ridiculous these days, not to mention availability. I already have the DSS carbon...

www.dsmtuners.com

Has the needed part number for the 1310 differential flange. Then you just have a driveshaft shop make you a 1310 rear shaft. Quite simple. I did it. It's worth it even just to be able to get quality u joints now days.

 

[Misterflipster]

Honestly. This will be my first time doing driveshaft stuff, not sure what 1310 is, like a ratio? I will check the other thread for the part number, but you suggest getting the stm driveshaft and getting this flage made, if im understanding correctly?

In his thread he says that DSS makes a "full carbon fiber one" is this still the case i wonder? Would that be better than the stm + the flange upgrade?

 

[Adam]

I don't think anyone makes the one piece anymore. They were never good. Too long and bad u joint angles. I believe the stm one you're referring to is just the DSS. Call them if you have questions about their shafts

 

[jdxnc]

Honestly. This will be my first time doing driveshaft stuff, not sure what 1310 is, like a ratio? I will check the other thread for the part number, but you suggest getting the stm driveshaft and getting this flage made, if im understanding correctly?

1310 is the U-joint size, there's several standards. All of which are much larger than the ones Mitsu used on our cars. 1310 is plenty for us.

I'm running the front DSS CF shaft coupled to the oem tail section with the upgraded 1310 joints and the car has seen many low 1.3/1.4 60 foots without issues. Car has made well over 800whp. The shaft is not the weak point, the joints are.

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[Misterflipster]

Okay! So be it! Im thinking the aluminum for myself, then i'll have a shop do the rear shaft and flange

 

[DreamChaser7]

Can I get like a dummy proof how to article to accomplish this? Lol. I also already have the DSS aluminum shaft.

 

[Misterflipster]

Hello everyone! Just wanted to give an update and any help if possible.

I did install the DSS aluminum shaft and i ALSO installed solid bushings for my diff and subframe. After installed there was noticably more vibration (duh solid bushings) however I noticed more chatter from the driveshaft itself as well. Specifically increase in RPM also more noise and vibration.

Immediate thought: driveshaft is not straight. And sure enough after getting under the car i noticed a slight angle which may be my issue. What I've tried: loosening the subframe nuts on the bushings to see if releasing the tension would help straighten it out. NOPE. I tried (just for giggles at this point) adding washers to the diff mount plate/bushing to see if that would help with the angle issue, slightly but NOPE. My only other options are either the torque solution bushings are to blame or the solid diff bushings and would have to revert the diff bushings back to rubber (seems like even if it worked it would be temporary as it would wear out the rubber faster and wouldn't fix the ACTUAL issue).

Picture attached. If anyone can help please

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[jdxnc]

That angle is normal, it's not supposed to be perfectly straight, even with all oem parts. It's possible the phasing of the u-joints could be causing this, you might need to undo the dss adapter plate and rotate it to a different position.

 

[Misterflipster]

I see, I will try it. And that's the piece that couples to the OEM portion correct? I will attach a video as well so you can hear. First gear is the worst.

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That angle is normal, it's not supposed to be perfectly straight, even with all oem parts. It's possible the phasing of the u-joints could be causing this, you might need to undo the dss adapter plate and rotate it to a different position.

I'm shocked I didn't notice the angle with the OEM shaft.

 

[Misterflipster]

Can I get like a dummy proof how to article to accomplish this? Lol. I also already have the DSS aluminum

That angle is normal, it's not supposed to be perfectly straight, even with all oem parts. It's possible the phasing of the u-joints could be causing this, you might need to undo the dss adapter plate and rotate it to a different position.

So i downloaded an inclinometer i measured 19 degrees all around...so im wondering if that could still mean its out of phase? (And all the u joints line up)

 

[jdxnc]

I don't see how the angle could be off, all the mounting points are fixed.

 

[Misterflipster]

The video showed in 1st gear the noise im referring to, yeah i hope the angle is normal. Maybe the phasing could still be wrong somehow? i measured on all the caps of the u joints, i thought about rotsting it but i feel like thats a bad idea to do myself, im better off taking it to the shop that balanced my driveshaft and explain to them (in case its like, warrantied and me messing with it would void that).

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[jdxnc]

It's hard to tell from a video and not being there, the decel noise sounds normal for solid bushings, these cars make a LOT of drivetrain noise with them.

 

[Misterflipster]

Right on the decel, subframe bushings were also replaced, would that factor in at all?

 

[jdxnc]

Right on the decel, subframe bushings were also replaced, would that factor in at all?

Yes, very much so.

 

[Misterflipster]

Well i called the driveshaft shop. They said to disconnect the flange that connects to the diff and rotate it 180 degrees? They said not to unbolt the flange that that connects front and rear links since that will throw it out of balance?

 

[Misterflipster]

Well i called the driveshaft shop. They said to disconnect the flange that connects to the diff and rotate it 180 degrees? They said not to unbolt the flange that that connects front and rear links since that will throw it out of balance?

Let me clarify, driveshaft shop being the local shop that assembled and balanced my driveshaft not "DSS"

 

[jdxnc]

Try what they said. Ideally a multi-piece driveshaft should be balanced as a complete unit.