(update) Problem Found, first fix didn't work! - New Engine Issue

[kicknyours]

I have a lot here because I want to give you the background and my current problem. For the past couple of years I've been getting the parts I need to build a car that I'd be content with (have a Hahn stage ll kit on the shelf too). I ordered the Lower End parts from Modern Performance (eagle rods, JE pistons, ect, oil pump, water pump, gaskets). I ordered the head and other parts from Concept Illusions (see details below - in green). (during install noticed that two of the valve cover holes were stripped. Got studs and rethreaded them/all ok now. that was nice of them . Could tell after the fact that someone stripped them/tried to fix prior)


• Pressure Checked
• New Valve Stem Seals
• PEP Stainless Valves STD Size
• 3 Angle Valve Job
• Includes Crower S&R Kit #84176
• Fully Decked Head Surface
• Stage 2 Porting
• Hot Tanked & Pressure Checked
(stock cams)

also ordered from them
Cometic Head Gasket (.020) #C5497-040
ARP Head Stud Kit #141-4202MSD Coil Pack (Flat Pin) #8239
SBI Rocker Arm Set 420a
SBI Lifter Set 420a

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All parts were sent to Engine Overbore and he did the work below. I also sent him all new timing parts.

ENGINE OVERBORE
CR2014 2.0L DOHC VIN Y 94-97 ECLIPSE CORE$ 300 SER#11840
misc. job Disassemble/Inspect head . will work as is
misc. job Disassemble core engine to build for customer
misc. job Balance rotating assembly
misc. job Prepare eagle rods /4 new bushings+size small end / correct
center to center lenght
misc. job Polish/Inspect crank, Magnaflux and Nitrate
parts Crank gear
misc. parts Blueprint short block
misc. job Machine Bores and deck block
misc. job Line hone mains
misc. job Assemble Engine Check specs
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He saved me shipping costs and dropped off the engine (no additional charge) and spent the night in Atlantic City with his wife . i continued to acquire parts (sensors, motor mounts, clutch, master/slave cylinders, ect).

Over the last two weeks, have worked on putting it in after work and on the weekends. double and triple checked everything. Turned it one and it started the first time. followed his twenty minutes @ 2000rpm break-in instructions. No leaks (had two people looking with me). No check engine lights and the temp gauge had risen to normal, fans kicked on after a few minutes.... after the 20minutes i let to idol, like instructed, then shut off.

After shutting the engine off, noticed antifreeze dripping slowly off of the transmission . I was hoping it was from the heater hoses. It wasn't. It was coming from the drivers corner/side of the head/block. green/waterish antifreeze. the two heater hoses that are beneath the throttle body were dry.
I tried calling Mark Darius at Engine Overbore. He's not responding. Called his cell, nothing. I'm not sure what to do or try next. Any input or opinions would be extremely appreciated...

He did explain to me when he dropped it off the importance of being careful when putting the tranny on. We made sure none of the weight of the tranny was on the engine while torqing it down. We torgued it to a lower ft lb then to spec... I really doubt we caused it.

(if you're wondering why the bumper came off, i wanted to replace the headlights and drill out, repair many broken bolts, ect...)

 

[bullettdsm]

I
After shutting the engine off, noticed antifreeze dripping slowly off of the transmission . I was hoping it was from the heater hoses. It wasn't. It was coming from the drivers corner/side of the head/block. green/waterish antifreeze. the two heater hoses that are beneath the throttle body were dry.

So this ^^is the basic problem.

If you are ABSOLUTELY SURE that it is not your heater hoses (that is prime spot for it to show, as well as a common problem), then there are only two other saving graces I can think of, before you point at doing the head gasket again.

One is the hose/line off the thermostat housing sprung an awkward leak and it is somehow following around to the back of the block (I know unlikely but....), The other would be that they did not torque the head down properly (maybe they didn't do the extra 1/4 turn or used the old "composite" gasket numbers and she sprung a leak).

These are both straw grasps for you to look into. but my bigger question would be, who did the deck on the head? (and please don't say CI).

MB

 

[kicknyours]

Thank you for the reply.

I told myself that maybe engine overbore didn't torque the arp stud kit to 85ft lbs like the arp directions said so i gradually went to that mark and they were that tight. i turned them a little bit more. put stuff back together and turned it on.

small leak/drip under the center mark of the driveside of the block (facing the left wheel/right over the tranny. My brother in law said to turn it off. I did. I then decided what they hell i want to get a better look. it wasn't losing a lot of fluid so i started to pull on the throttle. I noticed a squirt/almost spray as i did that. I got the light in there better and got on a better angle. Its spraying out of the inner part of the freeze plug that is on the head! it was dripping over and under the edge of the block and it made it look like it was the head gasket.

as above the head was purchased from Concept Illusions. Can i get the part at a local hardware store? I see that parts dinosour has them. I've never installed one, but it looks pretty straightforward in the manual.

Thank you again for the reply...

 

[Jerkychew]

Sometimes if you can get an eyeball on the plug you can tap it one way or another and get it to stop.

 

[OneBad2L]

Glad you figured it out and it was only something simple.. Mark Darius.............. I used to live minutes from his shop, he built the engine for my first DSM about 4 years ago. Ran into one problem with it about a year later and he did take care of it free of charge but it took him almost 6 months to complete. The whole while he ignored my calls/emails and when I'd stop by he'd give the run around oh next week, it's almost ready, give me another week, ectect

He used to be a member of this forum. engineman

 

[kicknyours]

It looks like its squirting/leaking from the innter part of the plug, not the area between the plug and the head.

This leaky head was purchased from concept illusions and also had a couple of stripped valve cover threads... I'll be calling to let them know how i feel about that. You pay$1000 for a head, you don't expect a freeze plug leak or stripped threads...

thank you for the replies. I'm currently trying to figure out who has what i need locally/part #s/ect. I took off today to try and get the part and get on the road...

 

[OneBad2L]

Don't take this with a grain of salt but Auto Zone and Advance Auto both carry them for like a $1 a piece.

 

[kicknyours]

the one i needed was an 1 1/4in. napa measured it. Autozone, advance, napa, pepboys, and local stores - parts for imports and crown auto didn't have it. Then found one (south jersey auto) that did; $2)

The guy from napa said to use the aviation form a gasket. the directions said to clean the area its going into, then put a thin coat of the stuff on both areas and let sit for a couple of minutes.

check.

I then tapped it in as far as the ones were on two other heads that i have. i then put everything back together and about two hours later turned it over. I have the same leak. not as bad, but still there.

The permatex stuff didn't say on it what the cure time was. The original new one that CI put in still had tacky permatex on it when i took it out.

Later went online and it said that you can use it in 4hours and cure time is 24hrs. Take two is tonight after work. The guy at napa made it sound like its a put in and go thing...
i'm hoping the block isn't the problem and its just CI and myself just not doing it right. they did strip the valve cover threads (2 of them)