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ECMlink update on methanol setup

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Sam's GSX

5+ Year Contributor
394
54
Jun 10, 2018
Hohenwald, Tennessee
Ok first i'll ask my question, on this log my wideband reading goes straight, does that just mean i need a new sensor? the car didn't feel like it was messing up at all, in fact this is the best pull I've ever had.

a couple weeks ago i switched from the 500cc nozzle to the 1000, trying to get rid of that last little bit of knock, i just ended up getting a bit more knock (1.4 max instead of .7 Max) in my mind it should have helped (I still don't understand how it didn't) today i switched back to 500cc, because in the past 6 days ive had nothing but problems, the car just feeling very slow sometimes, I did i few pulls yesterday, (still on 1000cc) and i noticed the boost safe was activating, (which would make sense why it was slow) but i just filled the methanol.

the first couple pulls today on the 500 were still bad, but less knock, i messed with my afr a lot to get it proper, and kept tweaking small things, after about 5 good pulls without it messing up i believe i have got it working pretty good, so if anyone has these problems in the future, consider going with a smaller nozzle.

on this pull i hit 387hp (according to dsmlink which i know isn't accurate) I can't log boost yet, but I'm on 24psi
 

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  • log for dt.elg
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Nice! Thanks for sharing your results.

Do you know about the build journals? This is the perfect type of thing to post in a build journal for your car! Since its not really asking any questions, it probably fits best there. None of my business though, just throwing out the idea...
 
Or maybe a tech article telling what you have, what it is doing and not doing and how you got it to finally work out for you.
 
Oh ok, no I didn't know about that thank you (I just feel like a newb compared to all of you, that's why I have been posting here)

So is my sensor going out? I did a (2nd/3rd gear) pull after that one and the afr line went straight before the pull and held 13.5 or something all the way through it, but like I said, that's not really possible, the car felt great.
 
The flatness of the trace for your LC1WB looks to be an indicator of an issue. It holds "too steady" - I think. Hopefully others will chime-in!

Do you run a stock front o2 sensor? If not, enable narrowband sim. Why do you have it locked in open loop?

Not sure if it's needed, but I see the rear o2 sensor isn't "locked". I feel like it is supposed to be...?
 
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On my car I have "rear o2" in the dropdown menu shown. I also have the box checked for "lock rear o2 voltage".

I run a ZT2 wb in the rear o2 input.
 
Oh, I'll look more in the "lock rear o2 volts" I believe I do run my wb of the rear o2 wire, and I do have a front o2, but after trying to get it to stay 14.7 at idle and cruise for 10 months I switch to open loop and tuned it my self, but it's been working much better since then.
 
Oh, I'll look more in the "lock rear o2 volts" I believe I do run my wb of the rear o2 wire, and I do have a front o2, but after trying to get it to stay 14.7 at idle and cruise for 10 months I switch to open loop and tuned it my self, but it's been working much better since then.
It would normally stay around 16 before
 
If you dont have a front o2 sensor, you will probably want to try enabling the narrowband simulation. Before you went to "lock open loop" did you try using the wideband to simulate the narrowband? Not having a stock front o2 (or a signal resembling it - simulated from a wbo2) will cause all kinds tune issues.

EDIT: but I think dealing with the weird o2 sensor readings first is most prudent. Can you check the wiring? Do you have ANY exhaust leaks? Minor ones are easier to find if you take a towel and block off the exhaust pipe while its running. The extra pressure will make the leaks easier to find, if there are any.

Where do you have the wbo2 physically installed?
 
That's a good tip on checking for exhaust leaks, the wbo2 is on the down pipe right before the mesh (2 to 3 feet from the turbo)
I thought narrowband was more for closed loop stuff, but I'll check more into it, If i need to do that, I'll need to get to the narrowband sin wire which is stuffed up in my a pillar, that will be fun hahah ):
 
That's a good tip on checking for exhaust leaks, the wbo2 is on the down pipe right before the mesh (2 to 3 feet from the turbo)
I thought narrowband was more for closed loop stuff, but I'll check more into it, If i need to do that, I'll need to get to the narrowband sin wire which is stuffed up in my a pillar, that will be fun hahah ):
Its just a box that you can check in ECMLink for the narrowband simulation from your wideband.
 
Actually with v3 there are no wiring changes necessary! ECMlink does all the simulation on its own. My ZT2 wideband has a narrow band sim built in - that I used to wire into the front o2. But with the added feature in V3, you just have to get the wideband signal into the ECU and it will do all the calculation necessary for Narrowband sim, on its own. All that is required is checking the box in that tab, and properly setting the NB switching point.

You ARE correct that narrowband is only for closed loop. If you never plan to go back to closed loop, you can ignore this! I personally would try getting closed loop control working again. Once the wideband signal is fixed, and you enable narrowband o2 sim in the software - it shouldn't have trouble holding your desired AF ratio.
 
I have only changed mine 1 time in 12 years (Limited miles). It turned out that the sensor wasn't even the problem....

I have a spare one I could sell you on the cheap, but its probably best to replace it with a new sensor if you go that route. It is worth verifying the install on the Wideband and checking for exhaust leaks first though!
 
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