The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support ExtremePSI

Uneven bearing wear

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

*facepalm, are they really upside down? I cant believe I made that mistake, I actually just finished bleeding and re installing the lifters now, nothing seemed wrong with them, just oil came out, do they still need to be replaced? I have another set of them from my last engine if need be.
I believe my worst rod bearing was 2 for some reason, 1 and 4 were bad, and 3 was weirdly not to bad, but still bad.
Luckily it's an eagle crank so it's an allen to open the oil passages.

As for the crank journals, the number 2 one is the worst, the main dont look to bad, (pictures below) when I got the crank from eagle it already had the mains ground down .01 (or .1, which ever is normal)
So hopefully I wont need them machined, I was able to make a post asking if I need to machine the rod journals, but as you'll see in the picture. It's not pretty, unfortunately I had already ordered the rod bearings :(
 
Pictures
(Also other than rod journal 2, all the other journals look pretty good, you can barely see directional lines on them)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Hey bud,

The thing that keeps us all up at night afraid to sleep.... Did I mess something up on the engine assembly....... I am super sorry to see this and glad you sound like you are going to go the extra steps to get it right. I see you posted earlier a fear of wanting to fix it, and it fail again. Let me take a second here to just make sure, that you are fully aware, that in order to ensure you dont spin more CORRECTLY installed bearing in under a 1000 miles. You are going to need to fully dissemble this thing. The entire front case need removed, the oil galleys on the front of the block need delicately cleaned, the oil filter housing/cooler, every single oil line, the turbo, the head, the OPR in the head, the crank, the balance shafts, the oil pump, the oil system gears, the lifters, am I missing something here? You are going to have to clean each of these parts or buy them new. I dont mean just spray them and throw them back in. They need PRECICELY cleaned and stored.

My local machine shop is pretty awesome, but I still, clean all these parts.... 10 times myself, take them to shop, have them hot tank and clean them, I then take the parts BACK HOME AND CLEAN THEM AGAIN MYSELF, then I take it back to the shop for a Final clean/assembly. One single chunk of bearing hiding in one lonely corner is all it takes to make its way into your new build and trash it. I have a corner in my garage that is plastic sealed like a paint room, but I use it just as a final storage/assembly/cleaning room.
 
Thank you man, yeah I just finished cleaning the crank, (pictures below)
As for cleaning the block and head passages, I'll have to look up a thread on it, I dont remember seeing an allen plug for any passages in the block or head.
Yes I might pull a few parts from my other engine to save some time, but you guys are right, this was a hard learned lesson.
I can't tell you guys how upset I am that i installed the main bearings upside down, its unbelievable obvious that they are upside down, I didn't just throw them in before, but I wonder what I looked up to tell me which way to put them hahaha.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Its all good brother, I'm currently doing the same thing, though the mistake wasn't mine, I am fixing it :) If you have not taken the time to watch Jafromobile's video on Youtube on the 4g63 assembly process you should. If you have, watch them again! I cant count the number of small things I would of overlooked if not for that man. A saint.
 
Yeah as far as videos go, that's my main source for the car, I'll go back through them though, ok seems like I've got a bit of a gameplan, I'm sure I'll call upon you guys again before it's all over.
As always, thank you guys so much
 
You are going to need to fully dissemble this thing. The entire front case need removed, the oil galleys on the front of the block need delicately cleaned, the oil filter housing/cooler, every single oil line, the turbo, the head, the OPR in the head, the crank, the balance shafts, the oil pump, the oil system gears, the lifters, am I missing something here? You are going to have to clean each of these parts or buy them new. I dont mean just spray them and throw them back in. They need PRECICELY cleaned and stored.

My local machine shop is pretty awesome, but I still, clean all these parts.... 10 times myself, take them to shop, have them hot tank and clean them, I then take the parts BACK HOME AND CLEAN THEM AGAIN MYSELF, then I take it back to the shop for a Final clean/assembly. One single chunk of bearing hiding in one lonely corner is all it takes to make its way into your new build and trash it. I have a corner in my garage that is plastic sealed like a paint room, but I use it just as a final storage/assembly/cleaning room.

He's got no balance shafts so he doesn't need to clean them but he does need to remove the bearings that are used to block the front balance shaft oil passages so those they can get cleaned out.

A clean room and cleaning the engine parts 10x is a little overboard in my opinion. If thats what you want to do I respect that. I don't have the patience for that myself. But I don't want the OP to get the idea that he needs to do this. Being overwhelmed by thinking hes gonna have to pay to hot tank and then clean all this stuff 10x and build a clean room can be further discouraging. If any other members feel that this is necessary please speak up so the OP can do this right but from my experience that is not necessary.
 
Ok thank you, yeah I'm not equipped to make a clean room at the moment, I'm using my dads shop and have a large work bench and engine stand thanks to him, but no room to make a clean room,
And I am going to clean everywhere, from the looks of it, theres isn't much metal, I haven't seen any other than in the crank, but I'll most likely replace stuff like the oil pump and cooler
 
Oh for sure I don't assume everyone is OCD as I am. I definitely don't want to make it seem un achievable. The more time you take now though, the better you will sleep for the next 1000 miles you drive ;) At the very minimum I would clean everything that oil touches at least once super well. Every bit of that bearing surface that is gone is inside of your oiling system waiting to grenade the next unsuspecting bearing.

If you haven't yet, go take your oil filter off and cut the top off it, pull the filter material out and you can get a better idea of how much material has made it through your system. It definitely not a ton of material and likely you caught it early enough to save even more head ache.

I understand you don't have space to make a clean room but you should really, really, store your crank and block and stuff correctly. Surface rust can and will make your day worse. If you HAVE to keep the stuff outside wrap it in red rag, spray it with WD40, and plastic wrap it.

Any ways, my intentions is to help, not discourage :)
 
Thanks for the help, no I dont think it discouraging, there was a time I would take the easy answer from anyone on here, as in the answer I wanted to hear, but it costs so much more in the long run.
They are stored inside, I put a bag over them while I'm not working on them overnight.
You make a great point about the metal that is missing, has to be somewhere, thanks man
 
For sure have your block hot tanked, your crank looks like it needs to be cut, there are some good marks on there, take to machine shop and maybe it may just need polishing, let them make the decision.
WE sometimes try to save a few bucks and pay the price later, have rods check by machine shop also, they were already used rods with unknown history.
You must treat these engines almost as race engines, with a normal engine you could get away with a lot of things, ( not bearings upside down).
I can not blame you for trying to save some money, but there are things in engine rebuilding that simply must be done by professionals.
I am truly sorry for your problems, I have seen these things happen way too often, even Jafro seeks help sometimes.

Mandy
 
90% Prep, 10% Assembly (fun)
I am always open for questions.
 
I'm heading to the machine shop this week, I'm almost positive the rod journals will need cut, I'm hoping the mains dont, they are already at .01
As for my shop, they said they dont hot tank anymore, they do some other kind of cleaning, (I dont remember, it was last year)
But I can have the block cleaned and have him check the rods
 
Very true hot tanking was prohibited many years ago due to pollution, I said hot tank as a common language in the trade but it is really an oven nowdays.

Mandy
 
It is really more like a monster dishwasher now days. Pretty cool, wish I had one!
 
Sam, make sure that the crank gets its deadend rod throw oiling passages cleaned out too. I don't want you to have any material left in it that may be detrimental to the rebuild.
Marty
 
Although I'm not sure what those are by name, I did remove the allen plugs, and cleaned the angle passages with brass gun cleaning equipment and break clean, and I cant see any debris with a flashlight.
The shop should at least wash the crank when they are done as well
 
That is the section of the crank that I was talking about. Glad that you DID clean out that area, as it is overlooked a lot of the time!
 
Yeah, I wish that was more common knowledge, although my engine would not have lasted long because the bearings were backwards, the reason it was about to spin the rod bearing is because of the crank debris.
 
Yes you were very lucky. Did all of the rod bearings stay in place so you don't have to resize the rods or did any twist (spin) at all? I am amazed that it really lasted as long as it did under the circumstances. :thumb:
 
Let me grab a couple pictures, because if one did spin at all, it would have been #2, but when I pulled the rod out, at least one half of the bearing fell off I I remember correctly, so it was hard to tell, but, the little key on the bearing broke off when I removed it as well, so I dont believe it did, because the other key is intact
 
Pictures

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Those lines I believe are the cross hatching from the original machining of the rods, I cant feel anything with my finger nail on either surface of the rod
 
Boy.....that rod was sooooo close to letting it spin but it didn't. Bless the DSM gods!
They look ok from a visual!
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top