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ugh, again with 1g clutch engagement

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93AWDDSM

10+ Year Contributor
883
40
Jan 1, 2009
Vancouver, Washington
I have replaced my 1g pedal assembly, new master cylinder, new slave and the master cylinder rod is adjusted on almost the last thread. I tested to see if I still had drag and did 1st gear and at like 6700 rpm it lurched forward.

How much threads should I have left to adjust on the Master cylinder? many? none? alot?

stuff I have yet to check, clutch fork position, if its leaning towards passenger side ill drop the tranny and inspect pivot ball and shim if necessary.

what other major things could be causing drag? worn pivot ball? old TOB?
almost looking at getting the extended slave rod so I can shift
 
no, clutch is act 2100, I've had them in my car for 3 years with normal driving not rallying or anything, my car is stock @ 195 hp so if this clutch has not held up I will be pretty disappointed. I will be checking the Clutch fork tomorrow morning to see where it sits. It will suck if i have to get a new flywheel and clutch at this point.

also though, how many threads do you have on your master cylinder left for adjustment? I have none. I'm on the last thread, I feel like this will wear the master and slave out quickly by having to over extend to compensate
 
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I too run a ACT 2100 with a street disc on a ACT 12.5lb. flywheel, it has seen abuse at over 300+wtq so they aren't bad clutches.

At first I could not even get it into first without it grinding, followed the youtube video on clutch adjustment and it helped me out a lot. Personally I don't see anything wrong with running an extended slave rod, it was next on my list of things to do if the adjustments didn't work out, also make sure to bleed the slave while you're bleeding the system.

I don't recall how many threads I had left but it wasn't near the limit.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw]Proper Clutch Adjustment - YouTube[/ame]
 
yeah my master is adjusted that way as well on the last thread, and I am able to push the slave without resistance. The TOB, Clutch fork and pivot can't be that worn out to be causing me problems could it?
 
I don't know if worn ball and fork could cause that much of an issue but they are fairly cheap so you might as well replace them while you have the tranny out, many like to add a washer under the ball to help with disengagement issues.



Maybe you have air trapped in the slave, try bleeding your system again just to be sure.



11. Now you will want to purge the slave cylinder of any air bubbles that might be trapped inside of it.

12. Grab the clutch fork and push towards the slave cylinder pushing the rod all of the way into the slave cylinder as far as it will go AND HOLD it in.

13. (You) open bleed valve and command helper to push the clutch down slowly purging any air that was trapped in the slave cylinder

14. (Helper) As soon as the pedal hits the floor command your bleeder monkey to close the valve before you let the pedal return from the floor.
 
Ok, so tomorrow ill do the checking where the clutch fork sits and on monday ill rebleed everything. If that doesnt help, I will pull the tranny and get new TOB/fork/pivot and shim it. act 2100 should be perfectly fine still with stock power no?
 
Good plan. It should fine, you are AWD so if you ever did any launching it would burn up quick if you're running the street disc. They are rated at about 340tq., most AWD folks run the 2600 though but it all depends on your driving.
 
A non OEM master cylinder could be the culprit of you bought a cheap aftermarket. I bought an exedy master when I bought my exedy clutch, car would go 1/8" off the floor, constant grinding, hard to get in gear, and would drag at 6000rpm. I adjusted everything over and over, bled a thousand times, finally bought an OEM master and immediately after installing/bleeding all problems were gone. I didn't even adjust it, was perfect right out the box. Also, an extended rod sometimes works great, but usually is a band aid fix.

Also, with act clutches, your flywheel needs to be machined with a proper step in it, if you don't, all kinds of problems can appear.
 
yes I'm running stock flywheel, My guess is that its probably the flywheel incorrect height thats causing this.

*I have new master and slave cylinder, that "English Racing" just put in and bleed so Im going to assume they know what they were doing and used correct parts, I mean their specialty is DSMs.......

picked up a Used flywheel and my used act 2100 PP with street disc. If i pull the clutch and PP out and they are ok can I use them again with the flywheel resurfaced at the correct step height of -.610? whats the correct height for ACT products?

Thanks again for any info.
 
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it was rebuilt, and has no freeplay that i can pull up. pedal returns to starting position by itself, I also checked to see if as soon as i press the clutch it starts engaging the spring by the master cylinder rod, which it did.


Edit: I have just ordered a new pivot ball and clutch fork. (also my current pivot ball is shimmed from 3 years ago, I'm not positive if i remember, maybe 2 thin washers)
 
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yes I'm running stock flywheel, My guess is that its probably the flywheel incorrect height thats causing this.

*I have new master and slave cylinder, that "English Racing" just put in and bleed so Im going to assume they know what they were doing and used correct parts, I mean their specialty is DSMs.......

picked up a Used flywheel and my used act 2100 PP with street disc. If i pull the clutch and PP out and they are ok can I use them again with the flywheel resurfaced at the correct step height of -.610? whats the correct height for ACT products?

Thanks again for any info.

Never assume any shop put in proper parts. Its up to you to ask and make sure. A cheaper aftermarket master can be a night and day difference to OEM.

Yes .610 for step. RRE recommends .608 to .610, .612 being stock height.
 
ok thanks, if getting flywheel checked and stepped correct height, and still doesn't work I will throw a OEM master on there and see if it helps.
 
Okay. I went threw this a little while ago

First, check the clutch for position. That will tell you a lot. If it is left of center, something is out of spec. Either a worn clutch fork/pivot ball, or a bent clutch fork are the most common. Also, what can happen is, if the flywheel has been machined a few times, it will actually cause the clutch assembly to sit further away from the fork/TOB causing disengagement issues. Even with a brand new fork and ball. This is what happened with my set up, and it caused really low clutch engagement and caused the fork to hit the bell housing. I fixed this with a 1.5mm shim behind the pivot ball. You could also shim the flywheel (Tim Zimmer suggested this over the pivot ball, but I was impatient) If you have the transmission off, you might as well have the clutch step height checked. .612 step all the way across the friction surface.

Second, check for air in the lines. Follow these instructions to properly bleed the lines

For what it is worth, I have a non OEM slave and Master. And neither of them caused any issues for me. It was all slightly out of spec open parts.
 
thanks a lot for that great info, going to check the fork position in a little bit, ill post back and maybe have found the culprit.

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It looks to me that the pivot ball seems almost over shimmed? what do you guys think
 
almost looking at getting the extended slave rod so I can shift


Do not do this.



I do agree that it looks a little bit to far to the right. I personally would drop the trans and check things out. Verify the step height on the flywheel.

You've been running this flywheel/clutch setup for three years?
 
yes, about 3 years now. I wouldn't be all surprised if the clutch was toast, even though its a act 2100 and i'm stock HP with minimal launch about 5 total. I have a feeling the that Flywheel might be out of the correct step height and the clutch fork might be overshimmed, also the TOB rattles badly. I did 1st gear test again yesterday and I was able to get it to about 6800 rpm, I'm going to check on thursday to see if the clutch was properly bled.
 
bringing back this thread so I don't have to make a new one. I installed new clutch kit and resurfaced flywheel as well as installing my new tranny. I'm getting a problem with shifting fast, pedal is slow return which in return slows my shift. If just driving normally it shifts/returns slow but ok. I checked the slave no fluid, checked the master and a tiny bit of wetness around the Master( replaced by English racing 4 months ago and now its leaking...go figure ) Would that little bit of leakage cause slow pedal return by seeping some air into the cylinder while pedal is returning to resting position?

- no drag till 7500rpm
- everything else is good.

any tips would be great, thanks everyone.

Never assume any shop put in proper parts. Its up to you to ask and make sure. A cheaper aftermarket master can be a night and day difference to OEM. <--- this must be so true, damn aftermarket master.....:ohdamn:

Yes .610 for step. RRE recommends .608 to .610, .612 being stock height.

hmmm:banghead:
 
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When you say the pedal is slow to return, do you mean that it comes back at a slower pace than you are lifting your foot up or are you side-stepping it to let it just pop back up and it's coming up slow/too slow for your liking? Can you get a video of it while you're sitting in the car?

Ask a friend to take it if you need to drive.
 
shifting in the range of 5800-6300 rpm the clutch feels soft when I push it to shift and it has a moment where it feels like it takes a second(almost feels like slightly stick)and is slow to rebound and come back to starting position.
-the master is slightly wet though, so my question is can the master suck air back in as the clutch pedal is returning to its normal position?

*this is the only problem I have, and other than that it shifts great, no grinds.
 
If your master is sweating/wet, it's time for a new one or time to rebuild it. It will cause issues if you don't take care of it.

I would say fix that first and go from there. Just make sure to very thoroughly bleed it.
 
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