U-joints source

[Mech Addict]

So I was unaware that u-joints had actually gotten so scarce. Sounds like JNZ sells out as soon as they arrive. RTM is listing them still, but I just want to give folks a heads up that I got 2 for my 90 gsx from Amayama from their UAE warehouse; $57/ ea. + ship (maybe $20?). Took about 2 weeks, but they are real Mitsubishi Spider Kits.

I definitely support our supporting vendors, including both I mentioned above. Josh is my go-to, and Paul is knowledgeable and super-helpful in the Canadian tradition. But Amayama has come through for me too for plenty of parts. Requires a little more patience, but with parts disappearing, we need to recognize all the opportunities. Whatever money I save from one vender ends up spent at the others…

 

[XC92]

So, looks like I might be taking apart my prop shaft to clean, derust and paint it, plus there's some notchiness in the rear u-joint that seems worrisome, so I'm going to need 3 new u-joints. The bearings and other joint appear to be fine so I probably won't replace those.

I'm willing to pay what it takes to get OEM u-joints, but RTM sells solid Moog ones that don't have grease fittings for around $25 each, which they claim is very similar to OEM. But is it as good, or nearly as good?

Also, should I replace the 4 stock bushings with the Torque Solution ones? They seem ok, rubber's still looks good, metal sleeve a bit rusty but otherwise solid.

As you know by now my Talon is stock and will likely stay that way, so stock power, ~200HP, and I don't race, launch or do anything too crazy with it.

 

[Mech Addict]

When I was getting ujoints I didn’t know there was a Moog option. GMB was the alternative that I could find, and the chatter in related threads was mostly favoring oem (whatelse is new?). I have a little more respect for the reputation of Moog, so I might have tried it. When considering the cost difference and that most folks need 2 or 3, and most cars have multiple competing needs placed upons the car owners “Car budget” (a vacuous term that implies rational thinking when in fact, it’s a heavily emotional concern). At least the snap rings shown for the Moog look more like the oem style.
I imagine for a near-stock power level these do fine for a long time.

 

[XC92]

Amayama has the OEMs for a bit more than double the Moogs, around $60-$70, so I might get those as insurance, but haven't decided yet. I'm starting to put things back together and for now will just put the prop shaft back as is. It's not a critical task at the moment, more like preventive maintenance that can wait a bit.

I assume that with the rear lifted enough and on stands I can remove the prop shaft and the trailing/upper/lower arms & CV axles won't be in the way? Right now only the subframe/diff/support are reinstalled, so access is easier.

Also, I couldn't figure out how to torque down the rear diff flange nut since there's no resistance and I don't have anything strong enough to stick through one of the flange bolt holes to jam up against the diff body, or the special tool per the FSM.

Will I be able to do this properly once the axles & calipers are reinstalled, by enabling the parking brake, or is it better to have the wheels on the ground to do this, and will there be enough access to get a torque wrench in there AND enough room to turn it?

 

[Adam]

Precision 398 .. good cheap replacement for a daily. Most O'Reily's have them in stock. Running them in my talon daily and also in my gsx with an hx35 and 275s. After seeing the early evo vs gvr4 comparison pictures, I'm guessing these are probably the smaller trunnion joints. Got about 20,000 on them so far and no issues.