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U-joints (DSM vs. Evo3 vs. Aftermarket)

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There is a point where lively discussion and razzing crosses into hostility and public shaming. It’s better to state what you know or think rather than what someone else doesn’t know. Ujoints are getting scarce as are lots of parts. We need to find ways to address these issues if our hobby with these cars is going to survive. Supporting vendors, freelancers, and directed pleas to manufacturers are really our best shot.
Yes I agree with all of what you said here! Id like to add that ultimately at the end of the day that support means spending money with those vendors, freelancer's, and manufacturer's that's how the put food in the table. I truly appreciate and use our classified section and buying selling and swapping with other members has made my car possible. But I sometimes wonder if it is not counter productive to the cause of keeping the companies and individuals actually producing these parts doing so.
 
I just went through this rebuilding my driveshaft. The closest to OEM that I found were from NAPA. No zirc and even uses the steel cap like Mitsu with no rubber.

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$15 if you order from here. I have used these.. i did have one go bad on me once I upped the power on the car and I switched to the driveshaft shop unit.

 
The non-greasable Moog 398 has the same dimensions as the greasable precision 398’s called for for our application.

I used to use oem yoke kits because they were so cheap. But I’ll use the moogs next month when I rebuild my spare shaft.
 
The non-greasable Moog 398 has the same dimensions as the greasable precision 398’s called for for our application.

I used to use oem yoke kits because they were so cheap. But I’ll use the moogs next month when I rebuild my spare shaft.
You got any spare end yokes left over, from the many recall kits you purchased, that you want to sell if so shoot me a pm.
 
I am also testing out the moog 398, so far they fit good and feel good. They are NON grease-able and Not cross drilled, they seem fairly beefy. We will see how they hold up. For $16/pc vs $110/pc i had to give them a try.
 
They’re all long gone now.
I had to ask I don't really need the U-Joints, I just need the end slip yoke, but with soo many owners buying the recall Kits for the U-joints alone, it's a Fair bet that someone here has to have the equivalent of the leaning tower of bnib end yokes in their possession LOL
 
So, I have recently discovered that any new OEM u-joints with part number MB154554 are cross drilled and is now impossible to find any new solid joints. I'd consider reusing my old ones if they weren't so severely worn by the needle bearings in the caps.

The redneck voice in my head suggested filling the center with JB weld however I am 99% sure this isn't the best idea; but damnit Jim, I'm a boy toy, not an engineer.

*I am looking into part number MB837300 as the actual solid u-joint. I cannot find any information on the internets, and I am waiting on a response back from a seller on eBay to confirm my suspicions. The ones listed are for $375 EACH not including overnight shipping from Japan.
 
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So, I have recently discovered that any new OEM u-joints with part number MB154554 are cross drilled and is now impossible* to find any new solid joints. I'd consider reusing my old ones if they weren't so severely worn by the needle bearings in the caps.

The redneck voice in my head suggested filling the center with JB weld however I am 99% sure this isn't the best idea; but damnit Jim, I'm a boy toy, not an engineer.

*I am looking into part number MB837300 as the actual solid u-joint. I cannot find any information on the internets, and I am waiting on a response back from a seller on eBay to confirm my suspicions. The ones listed are for $375 EACH not including overnight shipping from Japan.
Heh. Our discussion via email made me think "I need to log into DSMTuners geek out on some tech".

Per my email, MB837300 is not a u-joint. It's the CV joint kit (you know this--I just wanted to have it noted for other people reading this thread).

Part number of MB154554 has not changed since the cars were sold.

The MB154554s haven't shown issues with breaking since the MR470072 recall kits were disco'd several years back, yet, something has changed along the timeline.

The only BAD thing of this forum is my stupidity to figure out how to tag people. A certain Anthony should get involved, but he may be too elite now that he's into wagons....


I'm going to do some more digging into this.
 
Per my email, MB837300 is not a u-joint. It's the CV joint kit (you know this--I just wanted to have it noted for other people reading this thread).
I was unaware of this when I posted up, didn't mean to cause any confusion. Like I said, there's little to go off of on very specific changes to parts made for these cars.
 
Heh. Our discussion via email made me think "I need to log into DSMTuners geek out on some tech".

Per my email, MB837300 is not a u-joint. It's the CV joint kit (you know this--I just wanted to have it noted for other people reading this thread).

Part number of MB154554 has not changed since the cars were sold.

The MB154554s haven't shown issues with breaking since the MR470072 recall kits were disco'd several years back, yet, something has changed along the timeline.

The only BAD thing of this forum is my stupidity to figure out how to tag people. A certain Anthony should get involved, but he may be too elite now that he's into wagons....


I'm going to do some more digging into this.
use the @ then their screen name, this will tag them and if email notifications are on will tell them that way also so @DSSA tags you
 
@CrackedDSM im not sure im following on this as to why @1990TSIAWDTALON dont want me to give tips and hits LOL. what is my brain not working out on this haha
 
Ok, I had my smile for the day! Thanks for the fun guys! :thumb:
Continue on. Now we have learned how to "tag" people! ;)
@DSSA/@EC17PSE ,would you like to do a write up on that? ROFL
It's all good guys. Sorry to disrupt the thread!
@1990TSIAWDTALON
 
Ok, I had my smile for the day! Thanks for the fun guys! :thumb:
Continue on. Now we have learned how to "tag" people! ;)
@DSSA/@EC17PSE ,would you like to do a write up on that? ROFL
It's all good guys. Sorry to disrupt the thread!
@1990TSIAWDTALON
Hey He said he did not know so as simple as it is I helped on clearing it up. Oddly enough since the system swap its not as easy as it once was. Searching took me a while to figure out the best way.

All help is good help
 
I mean I was wondering how to myself but wasn’t going to ask, LOL. Glad it’s not so esoteric anymore, ;).
 
I just went through this rebuilding my driveshaft. The closest to OEM that I found were from NAPA. No zirc and even uses the steel cap like Mitsu with no rubber.

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Have you driven your car with these yet? About to do my driveshaft and wondering if anyone has had any issues with the napa or moog ones. @bgold87 @mitsubishikid
 
I've installed the moog joints and drove it around 40 miles so far no issues. That being said, install was annoying because these ujoints do NOT come with the snap ring variety pack that the oem ones do, and Im pretty sure the ones provided are a hair thin.
 
It seems everyone in here has an idea what they're talking about and i couldn't follow half of it. But, my shop working on my 94 Evo II GSR has made me aware that, after rebuilding the transmission, the driveshaft is causing vibration in the cabin when decelerating. I'm based in the US and they said it's the bearing right next to the carrier bearing. I looked it up and it looks like the MB837300. However I have found one as cheap as $60 on ebay and as expensive as $340+ everywhere else. No dealer carries the part and searching online I found this thread. Does anyone know of a Labro part number or something I can search for by another vehicle to acquire that part in the United States? I very much appreciate any help.
 
Do you need a whole new joint, or just the boot kit? They are much like a c.v. Joint. If the boot stays in good order, the lubricant stays in, contaminants stay out, and the joint operates for a long time. It hardly articulates at all, apart from tiny movements in the mounting bushings and carrier bearing cushions. A suppose if it has vibration, you already have wear and excess clearance.

I replaced my lobro boot a few years ago. That was when U-joint supplies were just running out.
If you need the whole lobro joint, consider going with a custom, 1-piece prop shaft to replace your OEM. I spent over half of what a new, stronger 1-piece would have cost to fully refresh my stock prop shaft. U joints are a known weak spot when combined with “enhanced” power levels, and they are no long easily available (or at very high price NOS).
 
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