U-joints (DSM vs. Evo3 vs. Aftermarket)

[Junglejim23]

There is a point where lively discussion and razzing crosses into hostility and public shaming. It’s better to state what you know or think rather than what someone else doesn’t know. Ujoints are getting scarce as are lots of parts. We need to find ways to address these issues if our hobby with these cars is going to survive. Supporting vendors, freelancers, and directed pleas to manufacturers are really our best shot.

Yes I agree with all of what you said here! Id like to add that ultimately at the end of the day that support means spending money with those vendors, freelancer's, and manufacturer's that's how the put food in the table. I truly appreciate and use our classified section and buying selling and swapping with other members has made my car possible. But I sometimes wonder if it is not counter productive to the cause of keeping the companies and individuals actually producing these parts doing so.

 

[mitsubishikid]

There are a few aftermarket ones that match the evo 1-3 style U-joints, and they do not have the grease fitting, i got a few moog ones part number 398 i am not sure if anyone has had issues with these yet but i decided to give them a try.

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[bgold87]

I just went through this rebuilding my driveshaft. The closest to OEM that I found were from NAPA. No zirc and even uses the steel cap like Mitsu with no rubber.

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[enriquez2000]

$15 if you order from here. I have used these.. i did have one go bad on me once I upped the power on the car and I switched to the driveshaft shop unit.

MOOG 398 Universal Joint | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[donniekak]

The non-greasable Moog 398 has the same dimensions as the greasable precision 398’s called for for our application.

I used to use oem yoke kits because they were so cheap. But I’ll use the moogs next month when I rebuild my spare shaft.

 

[mitsubishikid]

The non-greasable Moog 398 has the same dimensions as the greasable precision 398’s called for for our application.

I used to use oem yoke kits because they were so cheap. But I’ll use the moogs next month when I rebuild my spare shaft.

You got any spare end yokes left over, from the many recall kits you purchased, that you want to sell if so shoot me a pm.

 

[donniekak]

They’re all long gone now.

 

[LittleRed2g]

I am also testing out the moog 398, so far they fit good and feel good. They are NON grease-able and Not cross drilled, they seem fairly beefy. We will see how they hold up. For $16/pc vs $110/pc i had to give them a try.

 

[mitsubishikid]

They’re all long gone now.

I had to ask I don't really need the U-Joints, I just need the end slip yoke, but with soo many owners buying the recall Kits for the U-joints alone, it's a Fair bet that someone here has to have the equivalent of the leaning tower of bnib end yokes in their possession

 

[greekgodchaos]

So, I have recently discovered that any new OEM u-joints with part number MB154554 are cross drilled and is now impossible to find any new solid joints. I'd consider reusing my old ones if they weren't so severely worn by the needle bearings in the caps.

The redneck voice in my head suggested filling the center with JB weld however I am 99% sure this isn't the best idea; but damnit Jim, I'm a boy toy, not an engineer.

*I am looking into part number MB837300 as the actual solid u-joint. I cannot find any information on the internets, and I am waiting on a response back from a seller on eBay to confirm my suspicions. The ones listed are for $375 EACH not including overnight shipping from Japan.

 

[DSSA]

So, I have recently discovered that any new OEM u-joints with part number MB154554 are cross drilled and is now impossible* to find any new solid joints. I'd consider reusing my old ones if they weren't so severely worn by the needle bearings in the caps.

The redneck voice in my head suggested filling the center with JB weld however I am 99% sure this isn't the best idea; but damnit Jim, I'm a boy toy, not an engineer.

*I am looking into part number MB837300 as the actual solid u-joint. I cannot find any information on the internets, and I am waiting on a response back from a seller on eBay to confirm my suspicions. The ones listed are for $375 EACH not including overnight shipping from Japan.

Heh. Our discussion via email made me think "I need to log into DSMTuners geek out on some tech".

Per my email, MB837300 is not a u-joint. It's the CV joint kit (you know this--I just wanted to have it noted for other people reading this thread).

Part number of MB154554 has not changed since the cars were sold.

The MB154554s haven't shown issues with breaking since the MR470072 recall kits were disco'd several years back, yet, something has changed along the timeline.

The only BAD thing of this forum is my stupidity to figure out how to tag people. A certain Anthony should get involved, but he may be too elite now that he's into wagons....


I'm going to do some more digging into this.

 

[greekgodchaos]

Per my email, MB837300 is not a u-joint. It's the CV joint kit (you know this--I just wanted to have it noted for other people reading this thread).

I was unaware of this when I posted up, didn't mean to cause any confusion. Like I said, there's little to go off of on very specific changes to parts made for these cars.

 

[DSSA]

I was unaware of this when I posted up, didn't mean to cause any confusion. Like I said, there's little to go off of on very specific changes to parts made for these cars.

I tried to convey that aspect. Please forgive me if I was unclear.

 

[greekgodchaos]

I tried to convey that aspect. Please forgive me if I was unclear.

All good my man One can learn much in the span of a couple hours

We are fortunate to have you here to clear these things up

 

[EC17PSE]

Heh. Our discussion via email made me think "I need to log into DSMTuners geek out on some tech".

Per my email, MB837300 is not a u-joint. It's the CV joint kit (you know this--I just wanted to have it noted for other people reading this thread).

Part number of MB154554 has not changed since the cars were sold.

The MB154554s haven't shown issues with breaking since the MR470072 recall kits were disco'd several years back, yet, something has changed along the timeline.

The only BAD thing of this forum is my stupidity to figure out how to tag people. A certain Anthony should get involved, but he may be too elite now that he's into wagons....


I'm going to do some more digging into this.

use the @ then their screen name, this will tag them and if email notifications are on will tell them that way also so @DSSA tags you

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

@EC17PSE quit giving @DSSA tips and hints

 

[CrackedDSM]

@1990TSIAWDTALON has a point in giving @EC17PSE hell for giving @DSSA tips and hints.

 

[EC17PSE]

@CrackedDSM im not sure im following on this as to why @1990TSIAWDTALON dont want me to give tips and hits . what is my brain not working out on this haha

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Ok, I had my smile for the day! Thanks for the fun guys!
Continue on. Now we have learned how to "tag" people!
@DSSA/@EC17PSE ,would you like to do a write up on that?
It's all good guys. Sorry to disrupt the thread!
@1990TSIAWDTALON

 

[EC17PSE]

Ok, I had my smile for the day! Thanks for the fun guys!
Continue on. Now we have learned how to "tag" people!
@DSSA/@EC17PSE ,would you like to do a write up on that?
It's all good guys. Sorry to disrupt the thread!
@1990TSIAWDTALON

Hey He said he did not know so as simple as it is I helped on clearing it up. Oddly enough since the system swap its not as easy as it once was. Searching took me a while to figure out the best way.

All help is good help

 

[DreamChaser7]

I mean I was wondering how to myself but wasn’t going to ask, . Glad it’s not so esoteric anymore, .