U-joints (DSM vs. Evo3 vs. Aftermarket)

[Gosutag]

Do you need a whole new joint, or just the boot kit? They are much like a c.v. Joint. If the boot stays in good order, the lubricant stays in, contaminants stay out, and the joint operates for a long time. It hardly articulates at all, apart from tiny movements in the mounting bushings and carrier bearing cushions. A suppose if it has vibration, you already have wear and excess clearance.

I replaced my lobro boot a few years ago. That was when U-joint supplies were just running out.
If you need the whole lobro joint, consider going with a custom, 1-piece prop shaft to replace your OEM. I spent over half of what a new, stronger 1-piece would have cost to fully refresh my stock prop shaft. U joints are a known weak spot when combined with “enhanced” power levels, and they are no long easily available (or at very high price NOS).

The attached video is from underneath the car at the shop.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nntF-Xwr56E

This was taken after I drove it and found out there was basically vibration going uphill and rattling going downhill. Seems like two separate sounds. Upon inspection they discovered what's in the video. I don't know what's normal but I would prefer to not throw away any money. It is completely stock and so I'm not entirely concerned with needing a brand new driveshaft as much as I would love to. So I would ideally like to replace the boot or the whole joint as well as the carrier bearing if they have to take that out anyway and be good to go.

 

[Mech Addict]

There are two carrier bearings. If one is shot, they should likely both be replaced. That Lobro also sounds worn out. Then there are the three u-joints that have probably been getting hammered from the vibration. Replacing all those things in a stock propeller shaft is likely more money than getting a one-piece custom. Just under $1,000 for an aluminum tube model that is rated for 600hp! Only reason not to is if you are trying to keep 100% original. Getting a "new" lobro is likely only from a donor vehicle, and it will have to be a donor AWD model, of course, which are very scarce. Single-piece models reportedly do impose some minor vibration more than a properly working OEM version. Probably nothing as bad as what you have now.

 

[Gosutag]

There are two carrier bearings. If one is shot, they should likely both be replaced. That Lobro also sounds worn out. Then there are the three u-joints that have probably been getting hammered from the vibration. Replacing all those things in a stock propeller shaft is likely more money than getting a one-piece custom. Just under $1,000 for an aluminum tube model that is rated for 600hp! Only reason not to is if you are trying to keep 100% original. Getting a "new" lobro is likely only from a donor vehicle, and it will have to be a donor AWD model, of course, which are very scarce. Single-piece models reportedly do impose some minor vibration more than a properly working OEM version. Probably nothing as bad as what you have now.

I read a rumor that a VW Lobro boot will work. At this point I'm thinking of just replacing the carrier bearing next to the Lobro joint and the boot in the joint. I'm assuming it's excess vibration from the new transmission, flywheel, clutch.

In terms of a new driveshaft though. If it's less than $1000 it might just make more sense to get it. I'd be interested if I knew where to start to find one. Having a JDM car is quite the frustrating endeavor.

 

[Canadian_CD9A]

There are two carrier bearings. If one is shot, they should likely both be replaced. That Lobro also sounds worn out. Then there are the three u-joints that have probably been getting hammered from the vibration. Replacing all those things in a stock propeller shaft is likely more money than getting a one-piece custom. Just under $1,000 for an aluminum tube model that is rated for 600hp! Only reason not to is if you are trying to keep 100% original. Getting a "new" lobro is likely only from a donor vehicle, and it will have to be a donor AWD model, of course, which are very scarce. Single-piece models reportedly do impose some minor vibration more than a properly working OEM version. Probably nothing as bad as what you have now.

The Evo is a different ball game. Factory two-piece, single hanger. Not expensive to rebuild at all.

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MB837576 - hanger bearing
MB505119 - boot kit
MB837300 - joint kit, includes boot (originally MB505101)
MR350138 - U-joint (2)
MR111611 - yoke (originally MB000408)
MA143517 - bearing nut

My driveshaft boot is good so I assume it won't need the joint kit, and I doubt it needs the yoke. It cost me $218.53 CAD in parts (approx. $162 USD) for the hanger bearing, boot, U-joints and nut. The full joint kit is advertised at $333 CAD ($247 USD) and the yoke is $107 through JNZ. That joint kit is still out there, maybe not at that price though.

Evo 1-3 has no equivalents, nothing else will fit. The price on the DSS aluminum 2-piece for Evo 1-3 is $2,068.62 (l-o-l) and $3,026.41 for carbon (l-m-a-o), both prices have doubled since COVID. Experiences from Evo 1-3 owners have shown that DSS doesn't even know how to build them, as they reached out to one customer for dimensions (after it had been advertised for sale for years), and another owner just bought a driveshaft that didn't adapt to his car. Not a good choice.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I read a rumor that a VW Lobro boot will work. At this point I'm thinking of just replacing the carrier bearing next to the Lobro joint and the boot in the joint. I'm assuming it's excess vibration from the new transmission, flywheel, clutch.

In terms of a new driveshaft though. If it's less than $1000 it might just make more sense to get it. I'd be interested if I knew where to start to find one. Having a JDM car is quite the frustrating endeavor.

You can still buy the lobro kit from jnz

 

[Gosutag]

You can still buy the lobro kit from jnz

I emailed them but got no response. Their website seems old too. I wonder if they're still in business. But thank you for letting me know! I'm trying to get in touch with them.

 

[Gosutag]

The Evo is a different ball game. Factory two-piece, single hanger. Not expensive to rebuild at all.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

MB837576 - hanger bearing
MB505119 - boot kit
MB837300 - joint kit, includes boot (originally MB505101)
MR350138 - U-joint (2)
MR111611 - yoke (originally MB000408)
MA143517 - bearing nut

My driveshaft boot is good so I assume it won't need the joint kit, and I doubt it needs the yoke. It cost me $218.53 CAD in parts (approx. $162 USD) for the hanger bearing, boot, U-joints and nut. The full joint kit is advertised at $333 CAD ($247 USD) and the yoke is $107 through JNZ. That joint kit is still out there, maybe not at that price though.

Evo 1-3 has no equivalents, nothing else will fit. The price on the DSS aluminum 2-piece for Evo 1-3 is $2,068.62 (l-o-l) and $3,026.41 for carbon (l-m-a-o), both prices have doubled since COVID. Experiences from Evo 1-3 owners have shown that DSS doesn't even know how to build them, as they reached out to one customer for dimensions (after it had been advertised for sale for years), and another owner just bought a driveshaft that didn't adapt to his car. Not a good choice.

You must also be on the Facebook group. I'm as well and saw that. I'm not certain I'd even buy the ones from them that are specific to the car because of that story with it not fitting the one person's car.

 

[Drewpy Dawg]

I emailed them but got no response. Their website seems old too. I wonder if they're still in business. But thank you for letting me know! I'm trying to get in touch with them.

JNZ is most definitely still in business. I just emailed with Josh and ordered some parts a couple days ago. Give it a day or two, sometimes he can’t respond immediately but has always gotten back to me sooner or later.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Josh is top notch, he’ll get back to you soon.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I emailed them but got no response. Their website seems old too. I wonder if they're still in business. But thank you for letting me know! I'm trying to get in touch with them.

Website work isn't his Forte but he's definitely in business. Me and wife have been buying from him for years. As a matter of fact this is his thread that your commenting on
Just buy it if you need it, it'll show up

 

[pauleyman]

Josh goes WAAAAY back. JNZ is to be trusted without question.

 

[Drewpy Dawg]

Who else here still has an old invoice from Connicelli Mitsubishi?

 

[pauleyman]

I'm quite positive I do.

 

[DSSA]

I emailed them but got no response. Their website seems old too. I wonder if they're still in business. But thank you for letting me know! I'm trying to get in touch with them.

The website is circa 2019-2020.

I don't have an email from anyone asking about a lobro kit. What address did you send it to? [email protected]?

We were without power/internet last week from Tuesday's storm, until Friday afternoon, but I was still monitoring emails via my phone, and was (thankfully) able to ship stuff out using JMF's computers/printer. We still should have received the email.

If you sent it to [email protected], please message me the email you sent it from, and I'll search our email folders for it.

 

[EC17PSE]

Just to come back to this. I grad an Evo unit as its very much similar to oem. If it can withstand evo abuse as they drag race also why would it not work in a dsm?