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Twin turbo? [Merged 11-6]

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yea sry bout that i messed up wat i was sayin its true that a single larger turbo will spool slower but like i said handle more boost...good lookin out gsx rcr
 
For those who just want to see what it would look like, here is a twin T25 setup for an Eclipse.
 

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Simple rule of thumb. NEver twin turbo a 4 cylinder. motor does not produce enough exhaust gas to make this worth while.

There is a reason why twin turbo supra's, 300zx, rx7 go single turbo when highly modified. The only real benifit to twin turbo set up's is less lag. Get a big ball bearing turbo if thats the concern. YOu can twin or tri turbo any motor. Is it a good idea, no.
 
ok thank u everyone. i was jus wondering if it was possible, wut else can i do to get rid of lag
 
That picture of the twin turbo set up is disgusting.........it makes me laugh just looking at it!
 
Originally posted by BoostinDSM
That picture of the twin turbo set up is disgusting.........it makes me laugh just looking at it!

I feel the same way. If I remember right, it was something I had seen on Ebay.
 
Originally posted by DSM mechanix
twin or more turbos are ment for V6, I6, V8 and such. like stated before its not efficient for 4 cylinder cars, it will only hurt performance.

Not totally true. For a street car yeah pretty well however twin turbo setups have been used properly and efficently on race setups. Ever see DRT's Twin Turbo B18 Civic?

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This car ran 9.49 @ 154 and always makes consistant 9.5 passes. Pretty good setup but again this is not the norm.
 
Ball bearing Turbo yeah ummm ok thanks for that info LOL
 
I think this thread is over.

It has been discussed about as much as "venting to the atmosphere".

Bottom line. If you feellike spending the money to do it be our guest.
 
Is it possible to put a twin turbo on a 95 gst? I'm askin 'cause my friends boss is selling one of those shadow turbo's for about 500 and i was thinkin stealing the turbo off of that along with the new head (less than 5000 mi). Is it worth the time? Has anyone tried making a twin turbo? One last question, If this were to work what would be the best setup for it? Thanks
 
I really really hate to be a flamer. But man this question was just freaking asked but not 2 days ago..and we locked the thread. PLZ PLZ PLZ use the

SEARCH

button. I am so tired of these retarded questions floating up in here.

To answer your question in a nice way. Dont Twin Turbo. Its no cost effective and not really efficent. You will be wasting your money. These cars work better on a single turbo. More than likely you would make more power with 1 turbo then you would with 2. Now go use the search button!
 
If you did it I think the best setup would be two bottles of NAWZ, the big ones.
 
This topic has been discussed several times within a month... please use the search function before posting.
 
alright I've decided, I have 2 t25 at my house, for free, it was either put them both on my friends camaro or put them on my car, I am going to be running a squential setup, the o2 sensor housing (modified) will dump into the exhuast inlet of the next turbo. firgure the hard part will be that, and I will have a y pipe to connect the too air inlets ports, so the mass air flow sensor reades them both, and another y pipe to connect the two boost side pipes, and then they will feed in to my liquid- air Supra sidemount. I think it is pretty cool, my intercooler I made for 200$ packed with ice I think it will have no problem supporting the boost.

How much hp do you think I can hit, don't try to talk me into buying a single big turbo, I have welder, shop access, and always do this kind of custom stuff all the time. I'd be happy with 350-400hp. Anyone think it's possible???
 
No, and have fun trying to run all that IC piping, exhaust piping, etc etc etc. Those combined probably flow less then a bloody 20g, it wouldn't be worth the time. Personally, I think it is a stupid idea to begin with.
 
How is it sequential? Are you going to make a flange that opens the exhaust to dump into the other turbo? And why use two of the SAME turbo for a sequential setup? The whole idea behind the sequential twin is that one SMALLER turbo feeds a BIGGER turbo after a set rpm/boost level. But a t25 feeding into another t25 defeats the whole purpose of a "quick" spooling sequential twin turbo setup.

You'll be better off hooking it up in parallel, with 2 cylinders feeding into each turbo. But say hello to LAG...

Good luck, and have a good time welding up all that piping.
 
hmmm, actually I had this idea last night, I am working on the car now, it looks pretty tight, maybe not worth it, oh well twin turbo the 350 now.
 
Young grasshoppers.

Do a search of ye old Talon Digest Archives, and ye will find the answer you seek....

Cliff notes: Someone has already done this. Read all about it, and decide if you still want to try it.

The URL for the DSM Archive server is: http://207.154.83.106:88/
It has almost 10 years of knowlege from the days before UBBS ruled.

Subject: ( 2G, T ) Twin Turbos on a 2G Eclipse
From: Vampire <[email protected]>
Date: 12 Mar 1998 20:26:48
[Bibliography] [Digest]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Some of you peoples may have already heard about my project
to put a twin turbo setup on my 95 GST. Here is the first part
of the story.

A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far... wait, thats the wrong story!

I started this project back on January the 1st. Basically, my theory
was that the exhaust wheel of the T25 could be driven by only 2
cylinders, the output should equal a 20G in flow and the lag shouldn't
be as bad, and I could aqquire a extra T25 cheaply, so why not try
and put two T25's on my car? Folks, let me tell you it was a lot
of work. For 2 solid months I have been going at it every night
and weekend to get this thing going and I finally got it started
just a few nights ago.

I bought the turbo used from a friend, and got a exhaust header from
Archer racing. Stainless steel tubing and flanges were from RRE,
other stainless items came from Burns Stainless. Aluminum IC
pipe and U-bends from Kinsler Fuel Injection, A used starion IC
from a recycling yard, aftermarket fans and various other parts
from Racer Wholesale. Steel oil and water lines, compression
fittings, and other brick-a-brack were from local parts stores.

I originally was going to have both turbo inlets facing the pass
side of the car, as stock would be, but found that the outlet of the
turbo on the drivers side would just be too close to the alternator
for comforts sake. ( forcing major design change #1 )

I reversed the drivers side turbo, so the outlets faced each other.
The drivers side turbo is also canted at an angle, with the inlet
closer to the radiator. ( Both stock fans had to be removed and
replaced with aftermarket fans from SPAL. High quality stuff )
There is about 4" between the 2 turbos.

The exhaust header that I got from archer was cut up, and the
flange used as a starting point to weld on new stainless
1-3/4" pipe to run to the turbo collectors. The collector
that was on the header was recycled onto one turbo, and I
hand made one for the other turbo.

I made a mistake and had the firing order wrong. As a result
I have cyl 1&3 into one turbo, and 2&4 into the other. What I
SHOULD have had was 1&4 and 2&3... Too late to change once
I knew what was wrong. As it turns out it may not have made
that much difference. More on this later.

After the header was done, I worked on the downpipe to the
cat. ( yes, I still have a cat! hehe ) I hand made the 3/8"
steel flanges for the turbos, and MIG welded on the
2.5" stainless for the outlets, and 2" for the Wastegate
outlets. The two main outlets ran down about 6" from the
turbos, then Y'd together and then on down to the cat. I
cut the Dave B 2.5" downpipe and welded a flange on it to adapt
it up to the new stuff. The O2 sensor had a new adapter
welded right at the Y intersection, followed by the EGT gauge
fitting.

Note that my welding ( I did it all myself ) started out really
$h!tty, but got much better after I had practiced at it for awhile.
The welds may have looked like crap, but at least they didn't leak.

Anyway, I cut up the starion IC that I got. Took off the small
pipes that it had and closed up one of the stock inlet holes.
I moved the outlet far down on one side, and put the 2 inlets on the
other side, one on top and one on the bottom. I did all of the
aluminum welding myself as well. I used 2-1/4" alum pipe for all of
it. Cleaned it out real good as it was full of oil residue.

I had to cut about 1" off of the inside of the lower edge
of the hard bumper material to get it to fit. ( Also had to take
out the stock splash shield that is behind the bumper. ) I mounted
it to the car with 2 brackets that attach to the bottom of the AC
radiator supports, and one at the top. There was a mounting nut
right in the center support for the hood latch that wasn't being
used by anything at all. Almost like it was meant for a front mount!
The upper inlet comes back accross the front, and turns in just to
the left of the radiator, between it and the body. Had to cut out
a small portion of the body metal at this point to get it through
there. This pipe then turned 90 degrees and fit directly into the
passenger side turbo outlet. The drivers side turbo outlet goes
down and beside the oil filter, cuts 90 degrees around under the
bumper and then into the lower inlet on the drivers side of the IC.
The outlet cuts under the bumper on the pass side, then up and directly
to the throttle body. Most of the IC pipeing is 2-1/4" alum
but I had to use some rubber rad hose bends in a couple of places.

The MAS outlet was cut, and a 2-1/4" alum Y pipe was welded together.
One goes to the inlet of the pass side turbo, and the other one
snakes down and runs right behind the lower edge of the radiator
over to the drivers side, and U bends up into that turbos inlet.
The MAS is shoved over further to the pass side than stock, and
the K&N filter is as close as it can get to the fender wall.
The hole that is used for the stock upper IC is directly under the
K&N, and I plan on putting a hose from the air inlet on the bumper
up to that hole for additional cool air.

The stock upper IC pipe was cut and the BOV mounting point used.
This pipe is quite large at this point, so I figured why not use it?
The BOV was vented back into the intake at the stock location.

Well, I think this is enough for the 1st part of this post. In part
two, I will dicuss the remaining points of the install, and the results
of my road tests.

On with the show...

The part of this install that caused me the most pain was
the oil lines from the turbos back down to the oil pan.
The oil feed line to the turbos was simple. I purchased
some steel oil cooler lines from the local parts store,
and bent them to fit. I used a 'T' compression fitting
to split the oil line off to each turbo. The return line
was the same general idea, but with larger tubing. The hard
part was getting the steel lines adapted to the flanges
on the turbos. I cut the flange off the stock oil return
pipe, and filled it with weld till it was a solid piece.
I then drilled it out in the center to the diameter of
the oil return line I was using ( 3/8" ). I then pressed
the line into the hole until it protruded on the
other side about 1/8th of an inch, then welded it to the
flange on the side that would face the turbo. After
welding it, I ground it down flat, inspected it, and if
I saw any flaws, rewelded and ground it until it was
perfect. I did this for the 2 turbos, and for the
inlet on the oil pan as well. After fitting all of
this onto the turbos, I bent and connected the tubing
together with compression fittings.

The water lines run to one turbo, and then over to the
other turbo, then back to the engine block. 3/8" line
was cut and bent for this.

The stock boost control is still being used, with just a
fish tank bleeder added in. Both wastegates and turbo
pressure outlets are joined together, then off to the
solinoid with the bleeder in line with that. A crushed
1G BOV is used.

Radiator hoses had to be modfied slightly. I bought
some same dia hose at the parts store, and cut and fit
them together.

I got 2 new fans to put in, since the stock ones didn't
fit anymore. The 13" fan was placed on the pass side
in the stock location, and the 10" was on the front of
the radiator on the drivers side. The fans are wired
so that when the LOW output is used, the 13" runs by
itself. When the HI setting is turned on by the ECU,
both fans run.

Well, thats the highlights of the install. After getting
it assembled I filled up the oil and coolant ( and a bottle
of water wetter ) and was ready to fire it up.

I hadn't put the bumper back on yet, as I
wanted to check everything out first. I had the battery
disconnected the whole time, so I had to let the ECU
re-learn the idle. Starting was a little rough, and I got
a lot of smoke for a minute, but it cleared away. I let
the engine run at idle while I checked for leaks with
crossed fingers. I was very happy to find no leaks at
all...

After this test, I put the bumper on the next night, fired
it up and went for a short test drive. It smoked a bit again
on startup, but that cleared away after I got on the gas.

One problem soon became apparant, as I could not shift into
5th gear, or reverse. Later inspection shows that the
weight on the end of the shifter is being obstructed, so I
will have to cut it off. ( I've heard that this actually
helps your shift feel. I shoulda done it BEFORE I put
everything in there. Now it's gonna be a pain to get at... )

Here's the part everyone is waiting for! ( No fair peeking ahead!
go to the back of the line if you did! )

The first road test was a short run. I left the bleeder closed
off so that stock control was on-line. The max boost I made at
this setting was 17PSI, but I got it all the way up to 6000 RPM
in third. I didn't have anybody riding with me, so I had to
pay attention to what I was doing on the road, instead of watching
the RPM's and boost.

It spools up real quick. I actually think the low end power
before boost is better than it was before. I hardly even have
to push the gas to get a response out of it. The boost starts
at about 3000 RPM and shoots up to 17PSI real fast. It felt
a lot more powerful than it had before. However, it was in
the 30's when I tested it, and I had the new front mount as well.

The response is smooth and not rough at all. I was afraid that
the incorrect fireing order into the turbos would cause it to
run rough, but I noticed no problems with this. You can
really hear the turbos winding up!

After that short trip I brought it home for the night. The next
day I took it out again. Temps were still low ( It snowed later
on that night ). It smoked again on startup, but that cleared
away again after a moment. I really had to be careful when
giving it the gas from a stop, as a little too much would bring
the boost on, followed by wheelspin.

I was in the process of a 7000 RPM run when I heard a POP, followed
by a great loss in power. After starting my heart again, I
realized that a IC pipe had popped off. I limped home and
opened the hood. I Tracked down where the connection had come
loose, and it was in a fairly easy to fix spot under the bumper.
I havn't fixed it as of this writing, as It has been colder
than a witches tit these last couple of nights. In case I
didn't mention it, I don't have a garage. Just a open sided shed
to keep the rain and weather off.

The weather is supposed to be warm tomorrow ( Saturday ) and the IC
pipe will be fixed. The EGT gauge will be installed into the cockpit,
and the weight will be removed from the shifter cable.

Future plans include the addition of 560 injectors, and Todds Stage
Five mods for the 2G when they are ready. ( Hopefully before the
shootout )

More info will be sent shortly. I plan on checking what this has
done to the fuel milage. My previous best with the mods I had before
was 33 MPG. Oh yeah, my mods before this was a Buscher 2.5 downpipe,
a high flow cat, custom made 3" cat back. Magnacores and NKG plugs.
A ND fuel pump from Buscher and the 1G BOV. K&N air filter and 2
honeycombs ( 1 side and lower ) removed from the MAS. The restrictor
had been removed from the stock boost solinoid and the dump pipe
cut off inside the intake hose.

I don't have a G-tech, and no tracks anywhere nearby. The best I can
hope for is someone to ride with me and do a 0-60 timing run.
The first track trip will probably be this May 2nd, at Road Atlanta.
I do plan on being at the shootout!

If anybody has any questions, feel free to E-mail me at
[email protected]
 
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