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Turns over, but doesn't start

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G-zuz

10+ Year Contributor
37
0
Mar 26, 2011
Lawton, Oklahoma
I have a 1990 Eagle Talon TSI AWD. I bought it off a guy about a few months back and when I finally got it home. I parked it in the garage. About the time after I parked it I wanted to start it to here the engine and it started and then died. Ever since then I will start it, it turns over, but then dies. If I race the enigine it will stay running, but as soon as I stop doing it it dies. I changed out the fuel pump, coil pack, new battery, fuel pump sock, new alternator, new fuel filter, cleaned the injectors. I just recently went to go check if the fuel pump is getting power in the on position (engine off) and it wasn't. Before I move on I want to know if the fuel pump not getting power in the on position is a problem or is it a mitsubishi thing? When I went to go check the fuel relay (nine prongs located next to the ECU) I took off the cover to see if it was actually switching. There are two switches in the MFI relay (Fuel pump relay) and the one leading to pump wasn't switching while the other one was. So I got a screw driver and touched the fuel relay switch and I heard gas gushing out of the pump. I'm starting to run out of ideas and I also want to know what else could cause the switch to not come on if it isn't the switch and isn't a DSM thing. I don't want to have to pay for anything if I don't have to.
 
Last edited:
Our fuel pumps don't prime until you actually try to start the car.
Have you checked timing and compression? Your MAF?
 
I would strongly suggest pulling the ecu out and opening the case up. What you should be looking for is acid damage to the pc board and smell for a fishy smell. Chances are your ecu has leaking caps. Also check for a burned up isc chip. And it wouldn't hurt to check your isc for a shorted or open coil.
 
Is your idle set high enough?

Check your BISS screw on the throttle body and make sure it's not leaking.
 
I would strongly suggest pulling the ecu out and opening the case up. What you should be looking for is acid damage to the pc board and smell for a fishy smell. Chances are your ecu has leaking caps. Also check for a burned up isc chip. And it wouldn't hurt to check your isc for a shorted or open coil.

I had forgotten to post that I did check the ECU twice.
 
Our fuel pumps don't prime until you actually try to start the car.
Have you checked timing and compression? Your MAF?


The connector looks like this:
[1234]
[-678]

I checked the MAF by hooking up a multimeter to check resistance on prong 6 and 8.
I got a hair dryer and started to heating the intake of the sensor and the resistance number slowly became a lesser value and didn't jump. I still haven't tested the compression yet or the timing. Could you give me some pointers?
 
Pointers for testing compression and checking timing?
Yeah, search.
 
The reason I had asked is because I want to know if there is another way to check timing without a light.
 
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