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Turbo rebuild kits?

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magik95

15+ Year Contributor
401
1
Feb 24, 2008
aurora, Colorado
Has anyone rebuilt a 14b with a ebay kit?

If so some feed back on quality. For those who asy don't do it, where is the cheapest place to buy a good kit.

I believe my shaft seals are leaking because there is oil in the j pipe but none in the upper ic pipes. I have a little bit of blue smoke from the exhaust.

I know its not my rings or valve seals. Checked all that. Odd thing is the turbo has no shft play at all. Thats just some info for those who wanna know.
 
I wouldn't recommend you try to rebuild a turbo yourself. You will not be able to "eye" the tolerances necessary to retain the dynamic balancing from the factory. If nothing else, send it to have it balanced after you replace the CHRA parts.
 
Thanks guy. Im gonna go with that kit! Good review and seems like a good quality kit.

Feed from the head? Havent done or read up on it. This is the first time I had to rebuild this turbo.
 
....and try feeding your turbo from the head if you haven't done so already. Unrestricted from the filter housing is too much oil for a higher-mileage 14B.
Ok so forgot to mention this when I first posted this thread I didnt mention that a friend of mine replaced the banjo bolt for the feed line from the head to the turbo because he broke it. He replced it with a fitting from autozone thats just a fitting with a big hole in the end that accepets a oil hose back to the turbo. So my question is, is that to much oil feeding the turbo since there is not a restricter in the line anymore? My turbo is blowing smoke at high boost. It still boosts pretty hard Im just wondering if that is the cause?
 
It's unlikely that there would be enough oil pressure or volume from the head to cause smoking when unrestricted.

You never mentioned, but if your turbo was originally fed from the filter housing and you moved the feed to the head and are now experiencing smoke at high boost, there's a good chance the damage was already done from the previous oil source.
 
No I have a 6 bolt so it was fed from the head originally. So bad seal most likely? One more question, when I rebuild this some say you have to get it balanaced and some say you dont. Which one is it, do or dont?
 
If there's balance grinds on the compressor locknut, you will need to mark the alignment of wheel / nut / shaft before disassembly. If there's no balance grinds on the nut, alignment doesn't matter.

You do NOT need to rebalance at the time of a rebuild unless you're changing / replacing a compressor wheel or there is wheel damage to your existing compressor that needs addressed.
 
Ok thanks for clearing that up for me. Ill be rebuliding two turbos, my 14b thats on my car now and a 16g that will be going on my car. So its nice to know I wont have to shell out additional money to get them balanced.
 
Look at the 14B compressor locknut as well...if there are balance grinds it will need to be scribed. Some of the early 14B's with the part number ending in 01010 had right-hand threaded compressor locknuts with an 11mm hex, and were component-balanced only.
 
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