Turbo identification

[bizie]

Can anyone help me identify this turbo? Seems to say Garrett and I can read some numbers on it which I have pictured. Just recently got this car and it runs like a beast but there's a little oil spit up coming out my exhaust on cold starts, also have some minimal lateral play so I'd like to rebuild this or replace with a similar flowing unit. The car runs really strong so I don't want to mess with it too much. Much appreciate any help I can get.

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[bizie]

Maaannn. I hate when I answer my question myself. Well I don't hate it but . the numbers came back to a gt3082? As in the chra. I think I'm going to source a rebuild kit for it

 

[slugsgomoo]

Given what looks like an FP housing with a bolt-on WG I'd venture that it's an early FP3065. It's probably worth talking to FP about it IMO

 

[bizie]

Given what looks like an FP housing with a bolt-on WG I'd venture that it's an early FP3065. It's probably worth talking to FP about it IMO

Would it come in that garrett housing? Im thinking of ordering the chra that these numbers match but I know how turbos can be custom built. Idk how FP does theirs..

 

[CrackedDSM]

Would it come in that garrett housing? Im thinking of ordering the chra that these numbers match but I know how turbos can be custom built. Idk how FP does theirs..

Yep. It would. This was before they used Chinese parts or started making their own bearing housings/etc.


I'm just Justin will come in here and bodyslam us with more info, but yeah. Pretty nice score. I'd kill for an FP3056.

 

[slugsgomoo]

the FP30 housing can run either a GT3076R or GT3082R depending if you want an FP3052 or FP3065... Personally I think the '52 is more fun unless you've got a stroker or 2.4L (and might still be more fun with those, but RIP: your drivetrain )

 

[bizie]

It pulls really hard. More than the hx35 I had on my other car but this one is also methanol injected. Its definitely a fun car but the smell is killing me. Probably literally . After I drive it a while it doesn't really smoke. And when it first starts it up it doesn't initially smoke, but after it idles for about 30 seconds it will smoke and shoot a lil bit of oil out the exhaust until its warmed up. When I hit boost (about 30psi) there's no excessive smoke from the exhaust but you can definitely smell the burning oil. With the turbo having the lateral play my best guess is the turbo seals.

It is tuned a bit rich but its definitely burning oil smell. The engine pulls strong (built 2.3) but I just got the car so Idk the compression. Engine sounds really good it just freaking stinks . I've only had to add like a half quart in the past 2k miles. Thats not bad with that kind of boost. My catch can gets the most of that. Regardless, I know this turbo is about to let go completely and I need to get these blades in a new chra or get a rebuild kit for this one before hell breaks loose

 

[CrackedDSM]

the FP30 housing can run either a GT3076R or GT3082R depending if you want an FP3052 or FP3065... Personally I think the '52 is more fun unless you've got a stroker or 2.4L (and might still be more fun with those, but RIP: your drivetrain )

Wonder how my PTE 5431 compares to the 3076R. They're both rated to about the same horsepower. I'm more than a little curious now.


Could always just upgrade to the 3076R and keep the same style T3 housing. Man I wish I could find someone with an FP3052 who didn't want it anymore.

 

[We're on Boost]

Would it come in that garrett housing? Im thinking of ordering the chra that these numbers match but I know how turbos can be custom built. Idk how FP does theirs..

I'll be interested in following this to see if there is a way to rebuild the GT3082 CHRA without just flat-out buying a new one ($949) from a genuine dealer like ATP.
Justin would know.
The page I see for this type of stuff from ATP is here. Tiles to various GT3082 stuff. There is a tile for a new CHRA and a tile for a complete Supercore, and some other tiles. This stuff seems to be readily available which, I wasn't so sure, because on the garrettmotion.com page under GT series, they don't show the GT3082 anymore.

GT3082R With Special Housings | atpturbo.com

 

[bizie]

I'll be interested in following this to see if there is a way to rebuild the GT3082 CHRA without just flat-out buying a new one ($949) from a genuine dealer like ATP.
Justin would know.
The page I see for this type of stuff from ATP is here. Tiles to various GT3082 stuff. There is a tile for a new CHRA and a tile for a complete Supercore, and some other tiles. This stuff seems to be readily available which, I wasn't so sure, because on the garrettmotion.com page under GT series, they don't show the GT3082 anymore.

GT3082R With Special Housings | atpturbo.com

Yeah thats where I was going to get the chra. I figure if the chra is the same and I'm reusing the turbines and housings it all should work out. I've rebuilt a few turbos before. They always turn out fine as long as everything's within tolerance. Though from my research you can't get a rebuild kit for this unit so I'm looking at the $950 hit. Just did a driveshaft rebuild and got a Fluidampr crank pulley. Car needs a little bit of attention but I'm going to get her back up to par. Appreciate all the input y'all.

 

[We're on Boost]

Though from my research you can't get a rebuild kit for this unit so I'm looking at the $950 hit.

I think it will be worth it. Those turbos that FP sold with their FP30 turbine housing were a good thing, with the v-band mount for external wastegate, stainless steel, etc.
I suppose they wanted to get away from being a Garrett reseller, just like they wanted to get away from being an MHI reseller, as much as possible, and that would be why they don't make that turbine housing anymore.

 

[donniekak]

Take a look at the wheels before you buy anything. I’ve seen a lot of different fp turbos with that chra.

 

[1cleangsx]

Glad to see your still around donnie

 

[JusMX141]

FP3065 for sure (Garrett GT3082R CHRA in a FP30 turbine housing). These cannot be rebuilt, Garrett considers them a sealed unit and does not offer parts...you can only replace the entire CHRA (836000-5009S).

Definitely an oldie given the presence of the 4-bolt F41 wastegate flange...these changed over to TiAL MVR flanges in the 2006-era, so this is 2005 or older.

 

[donniekak]

FP3065 for sure (Garrett GT3082R CHRA in a FP30 turbine housing). These cannot be rebuilt, Garrett considers them a sealed unit and does not offer parts...you can only replace the entire CHRA (836000-5009S).

Definitely an oldie given the presence of the 4-bolt F41 wastegate flange...these changed over to TiAL MVR flanges in the 2006-era, so this is 2005 or older.

My 3582htz came brand new from fp with a 2860r center housing.

All of their mid frame Garrett based turbos used a mix of 28, 30, and 35r center housings. You can’t tell what they are until you measure the wheels.

 

[JusMX141]

My 3582htz came brand new from fp with a 2860r center housing.

All of their mid frame Garrett based turbos used a mix of 28, 30, and 35r center housings. You can’t tell what they are until you measure the wheels.

In the pre-Xona HTA era, FP was buying whatever overstock GT CHRAs they could score cheap (typically GT2554R, 2560R, 2860R, etc) for the bearing housing and all the Genuine internals then pairing whatever wheelset to it they wanted, balancing the cartridge, and sending it out the door. I've done this in the past to repair blown GT units but the flow of new Garrett CHRAs at discounted prices isn't sturdy enough to support doing it all the time.

In the pre-HTA era where this unit hailed, they used all untouched Genuine Garrett CHRAs, so there's no reason to believe this isn't a GT3082R.

 

[bizie]

FP3065 for sure (Garrett GT3082R CHRA in a FP30 turbine housing). These cannot be rebuilt, Garrett considers them a sealed unit and does not offer parts...you can only replace the entire CHRA (836000-5009S).

Definitely an oldie given the presence of the 4-bolt F41 wastegate flange...these changed over to TiAL MVR flanges in the 2006-era, so this is 2005 or older.

I haven't bought it yet because I'm already going through all the spells cast on this car . Have some busted rear axles now so I had to order the dss units and now waiting the production time. Few more weeks. Meanwhile is a good time to tighten up the other loose ends.

So I was going to get this unit here https://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/mercha...oduct_Code=700177-5014S&Category_Code=GARRETT

But it seems those numbers (700177-5014S) don't match the chra you recommend. I'm just a guy thats good at fixing things. I'm not the turbo rebuilt master that's renowned all over the internet, so I'll probably go with whatever you recommend . I don't have the experience to know any better and really don't wanna play a thousand dollar guessing game. Ig I could measure the wheels and report back. Figured if I was reusing the housings it didn't really matter. I just need a chra that fits

Yeah I got this car recently for a steal imo at 4500. Has meth injection and running about 30psi with no hiccups. She's just a spitter and I want her running clean. She pulls great too so I'd probably like to keep this turbo. Has a 2.3 according to the dsm link. Idk much about it and the guy I got it from was a older black dude from the Baltimore area. Super cool guy who put a decent amount of money into the car but unfortunately whoever was turning the wrenches seemed to have more thoughtful days than the ones working on this car . He said it was built early 2000's and just sat. Said it needed a tune but I found the wiring had shorts so it wouldn't compute properly. Map sensor and a couple other shorts.

She runs rich at wot but thats not when she's spitting the most. The shaft play is about zero side to side. Its just the lateral or in/out play that has me concerned. I can also see oil coming out of the inlet, and kinda funny when I turn left I smell oil more so I'm guessing its dropping right into the turbo inlet. I could just get a new turbo also but I don't really see the reason to change my entire setup. Its really a fun car as is.

 

[JusMX141]

Old number // new number...it's the same part.

The bearing structure is loaded inward axially. As the bearings wear over time, they'll loosen up axially before they show any movement radially. The axial movement wears the sealing rings and allows some oil to escape. It'll probably go another 10 years or more the way it is if you can deal with the small amount of oil consumption but if it bothers you that badly there's no reliable solution aside from a $1000 CHRA. Some shop may blow smoke up your ass (no pun intended) and tell you they can rebuild it for less but it won't be with Genuine parts, and it's not going to last 18 years. If you send it somewhere to have the sealing rings replaced and a rebalance done you're wasting your time because the axial movement is just going to wear them again immediately...that service only saves near-new ball bearing turbos which had too much pressure at the inlet or a faulty drain and have no bearing structure wear.

Just make sure everything else checks out...you must be feeding from the head with a .035" restrictor in the line, your drain should be as direct as possible to the pan with no kinks, and the engine's PCV system should be able to handle three times the crankcase pressure of the stock PCV system.

 

[bizie]

Old number // new number...it's the same part.

The bearing structure is loaded inward axially. As the bearings wear over time, they'll loosen up axially before they show any movement radially. The axial movement wears the sealing rings and allows some oil to escape. It'll probably go another 10 years or more the way it is if you can deal with the small amount of oil consumption but if it bothers you that badly there's no reliable solution aside from a $1000 CHRA. Some shop may blow smoke up your ass (no pun intended) and tell you they can rebuild it for less but it won't be with Genuine parts, and it's not going to last 18 years. If you send it somewhere to have the sealing rings replaced and a rebalance done you're wasting your time because the axial movement is just going to wear them again immediately...that service only saves near-new ball bearing turbos which had too much pressure at the inlet or a faulty drain and have no bearing structure wear.

Just make sure everything else checks out...you must be feeding from the head with a .035" restrictor in the line, your drain should be as direct as possible to the pan with no kinks, and the engine's PCV system should be able to handle three times the crankcase pressure of the stock PCV system.

Yeah I was thinking I should change the feed to the head and maybe could run it this way a bit longer. Also told myself well its a garrett so it'll probably run this was for a long time but my gf and everyone complains it smells. All that matters to me is I win the race . And she definitely does that. For my pcv I'm running both vcv and pcv (stock fittings) to catch can then to the intake for the negative cc pressure because its a daily driver. I was told to do a vented cc but I'm not a big fan of that. I do run speed density so its possible I open it up but from my understanding with combustion engines its good to have the crankcase under negative pressure to pull out gases at cruise. Probably negligible but I'm kinda picky. That's why I figured swap the chra and see how that does her. Also going to lean her up but I haven't been too worried since its only rich at wot.

Much appreciate the info though! The head feed I'm gonna do first and see how that helps.

 

[JusMX141]

If the PCV valve isn't routed back to the intake manifold it won't open until crankcase pressure is high enough to push it open...so in reality you're only breathing through one 5/16" line, which is asking a PCV system designed to handle 12psi on a 25-26 lb/min turbo to handle 2x or 2.5x that boost level from a 60 lb/min turbo. That alone will prevent a turbo from draining properly and cause oil smoke because if the engine can't breathe through the PCV system it's going to breathe through the turbo drain.

If you're not going to replace the PCV valve with a hose nipple and either dump both lines or connect both to a sealed catch can then run that back to the intake with a single 5/8" line, then you need to leave the factory PCV valve in place and connect it to the intake manifold as intended from the factory then have the side vent upgraded to either 5/8" hose nipple or 10AN.

Spend the money on feeding the turbo properly and upgrading your PCV system before you do anything else...not only may it fix your current problem, it may prevent the same problem on a replacement turbo.

 

[bizie]

If the PCV valve isn't routed back to the intake manifold it won't open until crankcase pressure is high enough to push it open...so in reality you're only breathing through one 5/16" line, which is asking a PCV system designed to handle 12psi on a 25-26 lb/min turbo to handle 2x or 2.5x that boost level from a 60 lb/min turbo. That alone will prevent a turbo from draining properly and cause oil smoke because if the engine can't breathe through the PCV system it's going to breathe through the turbo drain.

If you're not going to replace the PCV valve with a hose nipple and either dump both lines or connect both to a sealed catch can then run that back to the intake with a single 5/8" line, then you need to leave the factory PCV valve in place and connect it to the intake manifold as intended from the factory then have the side vent upgraded to either 5/8" hose nipple or 10AN.

Spend the money on feeding the turbo properly and upgrading your PCV system before you do anything else...not only may it fix your current problem, it may prevent the same problem on a replacement turbo.

Yeah both of the lines are going to the catch can which is sealed and running to the intake tube, not the intake manifold. That puts it under vacuum, correct? I know there's more vacuum at idle at the IM but what I was trying to do was make sure I wasn't just blowing a ton of oil out the pcv from blowby. Figured run that to the catch can and see if it helped but it made no difference.

 

[bizie]

I'll hook it to the head though and see if that helps and run the pcv back to the IM. I'll report back after that

 

[JusMX141]

Yeah both of the lines are going to the catch can which is sealed and running to the intake tube, not the intake manifold. That puts it under vacuum, correct? I know there's more vacuum at idle at the IM but what I was trying to do was make sure I wasn't just blowing a ton of oil out the pcv from blowby. Figured run that to the catch can and see if it helped but it made no difference.

The PCV valve I.D. is under 1/4"....it's designed to only handle evacuation when the throttle plate is closed and no load is on the engine (idle). Any other time the intake pipe should be utilized if negative pressure (positive ventilation) is needed.

Running the PCV valve back to the intake manifold is fine, but you need a major upgrade to the side of the valve cover....most are running two 10AN lines at the 600+ power level to put things into perspective.