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Spyder Turbo Auto Tranny In A 4G64

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The auto trannies that come in our 4g64 cars are very very weak compared to a stock auto turbo tranny, if you boost your 2.4 you'll probably torch your auto tranny. I did twice, first with 98k miles on it, then rebuilt with borg warner clutches and torched it again. Sooooo the next step is either go turbo auto or manual. I chose auto since I didn't really want to screw with all the clutch stuff.

Parts you WILL need:
Turbo Tranny (F4A33)
Turbo Torque Converter (Bigger than stock)
4 Bolt Flexplate
Turbo Starter Plate
Front, Rear, and Side Mounts (there all different)
Turbo Auto Pilot Bearing (or machine yours out)
TCU
CV's from a 2g Auto GST

Parts Extra I Used:
Kiggly 5 Plate Front Clutch
IPT End Clutch
Translab Shift Kit
Roadsurge Shift Box

You may need to grind the front crossmember a bit to squeeze the tranny in there, it is pretty beefy compared to the stock one.

Remove all of the stock drivetrain and tranny. Make sure all the connectors are disconnected.
Remove your flexplate and throw it away. Pop out your pilot bearing using the grease method (fill the hole full of grease and use something that fits tightly in the hole with a hammer, it will hydraulic the bearing out. Remove the stock starter plate and put your new one in.
Put your new (or modified) bearing in and seat it all the way in. Put your new flexplate on (99ft/lbs iirc). Make sure you put it on the correct way! the parts bent out face the engine!! Fill the converter, seat it in the tranny all the way. It should go 5/8" inside the bell housing when in all the way. Put the tranny in and bolt everything up. Install everything else and you should be good to go. I'm not 100% on the TCU situation since i have a roadsurge box and dont use the tcu at all.

In the pic you'll see the new starter plate and flexplate aswell as the modified pilot bearing all correctly installed.
 

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Las juntas omosineticas también las cambiaste y el arnés

(Translated: You also changed the CV joints and the harness)
 
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