- 2,020
- 24
- Nov 10, 2002
-
Raleigh,
North_Carolina
I've done quite a bit of parts swapping on my cars and tons of repairs on customer vehicles. What I'm lacking in though is true tuning experience.
I was saving the work for a dyno day but don't see it happening any month soon. Based on experience and emissions standards I've found my current cam gear settings (zero on both) not only has really high hydrocarbon emissions but a poor vacuum reading. Vacuum started at about 12-13 inches of vacuum (stock engines usually read about 18-20 inches) and my hydrocarbons were at 450-500 ppm. Neither of these were acceptable to me.
First thing I did was put it on the emissions analyzer at work and hooked up a vacuum gauge. I was able to adjust the exhaust gear with relative ease since I can reach it. I bent my alan wrench trying to get the rear one broken loose. Fixed that, explain later. Adjusted the exhaust to 3 degrees advanced. Vacuum came up about an inch, hc's down to 350. Performance felt slightly better (@$$dyno) and gas mileage seemed to improve (from 200 up to 250 miles per tank maybe).
Next I finally got the rear set screws loose and replaced all six screws to prevent problems in the future. After trying advancing and retarding the intake I finally settled on 3 or 4 degrees retarded on the intake and 3 advanced on the exhaust. Vacuum is up to 15" and HC's down to 50ppm.
My questions are: Hs anyone else tuned in this mannor and if so to what affect?, I'm increasing engine vacuum, reducing fuel waste so that should be a good thing right?, Any other methods short of a dyno that can be used?
Things I do understand is that with cam grind variances come different valve duration, overlap, and lift. As such engine vacuum may change from factory specs with aftermarket cams.
Thoughts?
Doug
I was saving the work for a dyno day but don't see it happening any month soon. Based on experience and emissions standards I've found my current cam gear settings (zero on both) not only has really high hydrocarbon emissions but a poor vacuum reading. Vacuum started at about 12-13 inches of vacuum (stock engines usually read about 18-20 inches) and my hydrocarbons were at 450-500 ppm. Neither of these were acceptable to me.
First thing I did was put it on the emissions analyzer at work and hooked up a vacuum gauge. I was able to adjust the exhaust gear with relative ease since I can reach it. I bent my alan wrench trying to get the rear one broken loose. Fixed that, explain later. Adjusted the exhaust to 3 degrees advanced. Vacuum came up about an inch, hc's down to 350. Performance felt slightly better (@$$dyno) and gas mileage seemed to improve (from 200 up to 250 miles per tank maybe).
Next I finally got the rear set screws loose and replaced all six screws to prevent problems in the future. After trying advancing and retarding the intake I finally settled on 3 or 4 degrees retarded on the intake and 3 advanced on the exhaust. Vacuum is up to 15" and HC's down to 50ppm.
My questions are: Hs anyone else tuned in this mannor and if so to what affect?, I'm increasing engine vacuum, reducing fuel waste so that should be a good thing right?, Any other methods short of a dyno that can be used?
Things I do understand is that with cam grind variances come different valve duration, overlap, and lift. As such engine vacuum may change from factory specs with aftermarket cams.
Thoughts?
Doug