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ECMlink tune help please

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Sachsline

Proven Member
93
2
Jul 27, 2016
Aberdeen, South_Dakota
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks? no
Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks?yes

2). Verified mechanical timing? yes

3). Verified base timing?yes

4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil:stock
Wire brand and Age: new accell 8mm
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: ngk 7es gapped to 28

5). Motor health (Compression Test)
Cylinder 1:
Cylinder 2:
Cylinder 3:
Cylinder 4:

6). Performed basic throttle body adjustments? yes
Idle Switch: yes
Throttle Cable: new, yes
TPS: yes
BISS: yes

7). Compression ratio

8). Any known bad sensors or brittle wiring? no

9). Any DTC/CEL codes? no

10). Electrical system
Car off (not running):
Car running:

11). Base fuel pressure and injector values
Base Fuel Pressure:37
Injector Size (cc/min):550cc

12). Properly calibrated and configured wideband sensor
Sensor Brand: mtxl
Calibration Date: 2/5/17

13). Type of fuel
Type:91
Percent of Ethanol:

14). Watched ECMlink how-to videos? of course

need some help with fine tuning this thing. I'm not looking for huge gains just a good base tune. what I have so far is where I'm stuck at, especially being v2.5. I'm getting knock degree of 4-7 at 15 psi at 11-1 afr. I raised some mafcomp sliders and was able to get knock down to 1-2 degrees at 9-10 afr's still at 15 psi. I also noticed my mafcomp at high values are off and my ltft lo, mid, and hi are not registering? heres a log I did today its not a full 3rd gear pull, only went to 4500 rpm I think. if it helps any I can go out and get a better wot pull. any help or advise is much appreciated.
 

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  • quickpulllowknock.elg
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Typically if your fuel trims are in line and you're still getting knock, it means you need to remove a little timing. You managed to get it from 4-7 down to 1-2. So you'd remove 1-2 degrees at the spot where its still knocking. Have you been running 15 psi without knock in the past or did you just recently make a change? When you add boost and keep octane rating the same, it's common to have to lower timing.

As for the fuel trim adjustments, those are only used when its in closed loop. Once it switches to open loop those adjustments all change to 0% until you go back into closed loop again.

Its only a matter of time before this gets said by a bunch of people on your thread. Get link upgraded when you can. There's so much more adjustment capability.
 
Go out and go do another pull until at least 5500 rpm in third. After doing a pull change your maf slider at 5500 to match boostest and actual boost, do another pull then change global by whatever your wbfactor was reading at 5500 reads. Now dial idle in again with your new global. One last pull to dial in rest of afrest to Wideband.
 
Adjust your TPS: http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/adjust-your-tps.509898/

Without being able to tweak your DA tables, you kinda just get what you get based on MAF and fuel adjustments.

Your pretty rich at WOT. The only real way to lean it out is to pull fuel from global until you get the desired AFR. Your MAF is lining up decent, so I'd start with leaning out global fuel a bit and go from there.

Your timing table is completely jacked. You're pulling a ridiculous amount of timing out. You'll need to lower boost, or go to a better fuel if you want to improve here. Tiny turbo + boost + shitty 91 fuel = knock.

The best suggestion I could possibly give you is to upgrade to ECMink V3. You simply don't have the functionality you need to really optimize the tune with V2 hardware: http://www.ecmtuning.com/product_info.php?cPath=25&products_id=37
 
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