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Trying to keep it “stock”: Mr OEM

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Oh, also FINALLY got around to dying the carpet. It came out amazing and I highly recommend Detail King carpet dye. I also highly recommend for everyone with the grey carpet to go with the light grey if you are wanting to match the color. I ordered BOTH the light grey and the medium abs started with the light. It’s actually a tad bit darker than the oem but in the car you can’t tell at all. It looks amazing. I am super happy with how it came out. I dyed it according to their directions on the site and not putting it in a container and letting it soak. I wanted the oem carpet padding to still be on the carpet and not dyed grey. So moisten the carpet first, then spray the dye and use a brush to rub it in then let it sit overnight. First pic is before, second pic is left half after/right half before and last pic if after but not fully dry yet.

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I also wanted the rear hatch cover to match too and it was faded so dyed it too. Be careful when using the brush though and don’t put too much pressure on it! Mine was sun baked and too much pressure was taking off fiber. So be gentle and I removed the rubber things on it to make it dye uniform. Turned out amazing too. The color it is, is how the carpet turned out when fully dry. It’s so close to the oem color.


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Now I have moved into phase 3 of the rebuild! Ripped all the front suspension out and if I didn’t know any better (which I don’t know what the original owner did) seems the control arms were never replaced. Also got the fenders off and as much of the wire harness out of the way as I can for now. I am super happy with the shape of the metal. It’s dirty but so far I have found zero rust. We will see what happens when I start removing the seam sealer and break through all the dirt and grime though. So far so good.

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Well got the front subframe dropped with no real issues. I was so worried about the pinch bolt for the steering column being hard to get to but really it was getting the flex lines disconnected that was the most tough. Luckily the car is in such good shape that none of the bolts snapped or had any issues getting things broken free. I am so happy with the base I am starting with abs glad I don’t have to do metal work. Still have to work my way through the seams though and pray for no corrosion.

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The attention to detail is amazing.

What battery terminals are you using on top of that odyssey?
Hey man, I used the SAE terminals from the stmtuned battery kit and then ordered nvx post terminals from sonicelectronixs. If you need anything car electronic wise they are great and have amazing prices. Highly recommend them.

 
Decided to suck it up and just hammer out stripping the seams and gunk/grime in the drivers side and passenger side wheel wells. Took a solid two days and still have a lot of detail work to get everything fully down to metal, but made a huge dent in all the work it takes. It’s definitely not fun but it had to be done. Wanted to be 100% sure I had no rust in the seams and shock towers. Turns out I am SUPER lucky and there is zero rust!!! I am so happy with that.

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That front opening i would make a cover for it to cap it off. I was sick of water and stuff getting inside so i capped it off and sealed it up as i have no idea why its here and left open.

Also what are those golden things on the fronts in the wiring? That to fix hyper flashing or something
 
That front opening i would make a cover for it to cap it off. I was sick of water and stuff getting inside so i capped it off and sealed it up as i have no idea why its here and left open.

Also what are those golden things on the fronts in the wiring? That to fix hyper flashing or something

Yeah I have wondered that myself about the opening. When I was degreasing everything and cleaning behind the upper area a bunch of leaves/gunk etc came pouring out of it. Ended up spending more time on getting IT clean and treated than I thought I would.

You are spot on with the golden metal boxes. They are the resistors to fix hyper flash that I originally wired in when I did not have all the space I do now. Going to relocate them to a better spot now though. Probably tuck them in behind the frame.
 
Yeah I have wondered that myself about the opening. When I was degreasing everything and cleaning behind the upper area a bunch of leaves/gunk etc came pouring out of it. Ended up spending more time on getting IT clean and treated than I thought I would.

You are spot on with the golden metal boxes. They are the resistors to fix hyper flash that I originally wired in when I did not have all the space I do now. Going to relocate them to a better spot now though. Probably tuck them in behind the frame.
I need to do this now as for some reason when the car was imported it got added to but now i removed this EXTRA light i get hyper flash! Weird but i dont know why as i been through the whole front now and the oem flash box is the normal one. What made you get hyper flash ?
 
I need to do this now as for some reason when the car was imported it got added to but now i removed this EXTRA light i get hyper flash! Weird but i dont know why as i been through the whole front now and the oem flash box is the normal one. What made you get hyper flash ?
I swapped all the bulbs to led. As soon as I did that I indeed got the hyper flash. Blinkers would blink super fast and I hated it, so used the resistor values that made it oem spec ohms.
 
I swapped all the bulbs to led. As soon as I did that I indeed got the hyper flash. Blinkers would blink super fast and I hated it, so used the resistor values that made it oem spec ohms.
Are the LED upgrade.most come eith inbuilt resisters now but i guess you did this before that was normal in led's?
 
So in trying to get every part of the car treated and taken care of I am using this stuff by Eastwood that is supposed to spray in a 360 pattern and coat the inside of a frame. Well, the reviews say it is messy and that is an understatement. This shit get EVERYWHERE and is a pain in the ass to use.... first is that it DUMPS the coating out. It drips from everything LOL. Second is that if the tube is not straight it just pools in one side and the other side is “lightly” coated. It takes a lot of work to get right. Like a lot of work. But it works man and it’s thick. Used a lamp and mirror in a lot of spots and it did in fact coat everything. TIP: Know where the end of the tip is when letting off the nozzle! If you pull the thing out and it’s still spraying it get all over everything. Including yourself because of course you are close to the damn thing looking at it hahaha.

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Also now that the seams are dry, (takes 70+ hours to fully cure) got around to treating the metal, por15 and then rubber undercoating the wheel wells. Again, takes so much work and the smell is awful, but worth it in the end. Thing is freaking bullet proof almost now.

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Started getting more parts back from the powder coaters and also had the hot parts ceramic coated in cerakote. They look amazing and can’t wait to get everything installed. Still waiting on the subframe parts to be done so until then they have to sit and look pretty.

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Also went ahead and had them weld in the SD bung since I am running dsmlink and will eventually switch over from MAFS. Had all the intercooler piping powder coated in matte black and they came out looking amazing.

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Hammering out more work on the car today. Been slacking and work has been insane. Glad to be working but do miss wrenching on the ol girl. Ran the stainless clutch slave cylinder hose today and got the new slave cylinder installed/bled. Used the forum write up on here on bleeding the cylinder so I highly recommend that to anyone that does this!

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What size is that Vibrant fuel line Dusty?
Car is remarkable BTW!!! Which writeup did you use to go off of to bleed your slave? I would like to add that link for everyone.
Marty
 
What size is that Vibrant fuel line Dusty?
Car is remarkable BTW!!! Which writeup did you use to go off of to bleed your slave? I would like to add that link for everyone.
Marty

The vibrant line is -8AN for the feed and -6AN for the return. Probably overkill for sure but always there if I need it. Highly doubt it but never know hahaha.

For the bleeding I used the article that is in the top write ups at the bottom of the page. I will link it here too though, but it’s literally always right on the main page at the bottom. I deviated in that I used a bleed pump, BUT I would have never guessed to push the rod on the slave cylinder in too.

 
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Thanks, that way anyone reading this in the future will have a link right to your help page.
I think you probably meant to put down 8AN FEED and 6AN return? Maybe?? I am getting ready to run AN line and was wondering if 6 was big enough.
Does 8AN bolt right up to the fuel filter or need an adaptor?
 
Thanks, that way anyone reading this in the future will have a link right to your help page.
I think you probably meant to put down 8AN FEED and 6AN return? Maybe?? I am getting ready to run AN line and was wondering if 6 was big enough.
Does 8AN bolt right up to the fuel filter or need an adaptor?

Yeah you are totally right, I got the numbers mixed up. 8AN feed and 6AN return is what I have! Edited the earlier post to clarify. Thank you for letting me know. I have seen numerous people saying 6AN feed and return can easily support 500+ HP so 8AN I would imagine would be for 700+ HP applications?? Not sure LOL. I just figured since I had access to everything I would run bigger now and now have to work twice if its needed later.

As far as bolting up to the fuel filter, are you asking for the OEM filter or an aftermarket? I used the Weldon filter from stmtuned and just used the correct AN fitting sizes to bolt it up. I used the OEM mount and clamp but that's it. As far as OEM filter, if I remember correctly, the bottom may bolt up in a 6AN size but I THINK the top is a banjo bolt and I have no idea what to do with that. Probably get the bolt thread pitch and get the correct threaded fitting and that would solve that.
 
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