Trouble getting into reverse and downshifting

[idkiliketurbos]

Recently I started having a problem getting the car to go into reverse and trouble getting the car in gear when downshifting. When I try to put the car in reverse it grinds. I release the clutch and push it in again and sometimes it will grind and then go into reverse, other times it will grind and I repeat the process until I can get into gear. When im downshifting it will be completly random if the car decides to not go into gear or if it takes a little forcing to get into gear. Also sometimes when im shifting into 5th gear i can feel it grinding just a touch. If anybody has any insight on what I should do to start diagnosing this problem that would be great.

 

[IgotBoost91]

It could be your clutch or even something like a slave cylinder. My frieinds tsi grinds going into reverse if he has his car turned off he just puts it in reverse first then starts it.

 

[idkiliketurbos]

Thats a good idea for the time being when i have to start off in reverse.

 

[pj91gsx]

i say bleed the clutch! if it doesnt fix it. the pressure plate fingers may be bent, but if they are bent you would most likely feel vibration in the pedal.

 

[brian_h_2008]

Start off with the easiest thing and check your clutch fluid.

 

[mosul210]

i say bleed the clutch! if it doesnt fix it. the pressure plate fingers may be bent, but if they are bent you would most likely feel vibration in the pedal.

I would have to agree, to me it sounds like a hydraulic issue. Check your clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder - you're looking for any signs of leakage. For the master cylinder check the unit in the engine bay and inside under your dash. If the units checks out, then properly bleed the brake line. Keep us posted.

 

[idkiliketurbos]

I just checked the clutch fluid tank or whatever you want to call it. The one right up against the drivers side on the fire wall under the hood. The fluid level is about an inch from the top of the tank where the cap would go onto. The fluid looks brown, so i dont know if that means anything.

 

[flinguist]

Try bleeding/adjusting the clutch. The video on this page will help you. Jacks Transmissions LLC — Tech Articles

If you notice any leakage in either the slave, or master, you'll have to replace it.
The clutch master cylinder is here- http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/2G/clutchmaster.htm

 

[idkiliketurbos]

Also, if this makes any sense to anybody, when I first start driving in the morning the clutch and tranny disengage and shift smooth as can be, but after a while of driving then the problem comes about. I dont know if that could help point out anything else. I plan to bleed the clutch soon.

 

[dsm darthvader]

Well the reverse grinding is a very known issue with Mitsubishi transmissions, research it. How to get away with it? put the car in any forward gear ( i use 3rd) and then put it in reverse. The downshifthing could be a number of things, try starting small like bleeding your clutch system/adjusting the master cylinder rod, getting a longer rod for the slave cylinder. But to be honest to me it sounds like it would be your throwout bearing. I remember reading something about the metal sleaved bearings having disengaging issues, i dont know if you have one but just a thought.

 

[idkiliketurbos]

Yeah the reverse I've been doing 4th gear then reverse and it works. It doesn't make any sense to me that I should have to double clutch to shift when im driving. When the car is cold and i just start driving down the street it shifts smooth as could possibly be, but when it gets warmed up after a bit of driving it starts to shift a little less smooth and i have to double clutch to get in gear. So with that happening im starting to think its something with my master or slave cylinder.

 

[idkiliketurbos]

I found out that there is a leak coming from my master cylinder under the dash.

 

[TomTom93536]

Your syncros are probably going

 

[DSM1G90]

There's no syncros on Reverse - just dog gearing.

If the master is leaking, you're gonna have to replace both master and slave along with the fluid.

Might have to buy a quart of DOT-3 brake fluid for starters.

I'd do the full fluid flush if the color is brownish. Undo the bleed valve on the slave and let the system completely drain and put clean in the reservoir and keep draining until the fluid that is draining out is clear, then lock up the bleed valve.

Then do the bleed task to get your system back to normal.

 

[dsm darthvader]

did anyone read your reply , good to know its the master is an easy replacement i just did mine not too long ago, make sure you use flare wrenches otherwise you will strip the threads on the line, and bleed the clutch a few times

 

[idkiliketurbos]

Alright thanks guys, ill post once i get the new master installed.

 

[idkiliketurbos]

So the new master cylinder is in. For the first day of driving it shifted as smooth as it ever has. Now after a few days it is back to doing the same thing it did before so that makes me believe it is not tranny related. Should i try bleeding it again to see if air has built up in the line?

 

[njdaewoo]

Did you ever solve your problem with the shifting? My car does the exact same thing! When its cold its perfect, but as I drive it becomes more irritating with the grinding sometimes.. You know, im starting to think it may be crankwalk. I say this because if you think about it. The tranny is shifting perfect when the engine oil is cool to just warm. As soon as I drive and put the regular stress to the motor the oil becomes hotter. As the oil becomes hotter there is less "cushioning" so if the crankwalk thing is going on, this is the perfect time for it to show its ugly head!. Now how do we check crankwalk?

 

[idkiliketurbos]

Well the car was sold so I never fixed the problem. I've been told it was possibly a bent pressure plate.