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1G Trick to pulling the auto trans?

turboglenn

Proven Member
6,379
104
Nov 5, 2007
RIpley, West_Virginia
Just like the title asks, is there a trick or certain way to rotate something or jack something up a certain way to get the auto trans in and out? I fought removing my donor trans for quite a bit before it hap hazardly twisting and falling to the ground, definitely not what id call "technique"

I can have a manual trans out of my car in a half hour to 45 minutes starting with a ruining car, and can put it completely back together in about the same (but i don't have a lot of engine bay clutter like an oem car or even someone running MAF)

But i know exactly how to hook a chain, lost out at the prefect angle and can have a bell housing bolt in not 5 minutes sheet lifting the trans off the ground, but the auto is a tight fit, I'm accepting any and all pointers greatfully. As this job is a PITS
 

donniekak

DSM Wiseman
5,614
950
Mar 23, 2008
Surprise, Arizona
If I recall there is a hoist point in the casting of the auto's.

You aren't trying to remove it leaving the converter on the engine are you?

Also, on a 1g when you remove the passenger subframe brace remove the other little brace that has 5 bolts going through it. That brace makes it really hard to drop the trans because it hits the diff area.
 

turboglenn

Proven Member
6,379
104
Nov 5, 2007
RIpley, West_Virginia
No, definitely NOT trying to leave the converter in the engine/flex plate. Also i learned a long time ago to remove both the plate and forward/aft sub frame brace. The problem i had was the rotary switch (gear selector switch/arm) hitting the frame rail before i could get the bell housing back far enough to drop the trans straight down.
 

DetroitStroker

Proven Member
230
39
Dec 22, 2012
Detroit, Michigan
Yeah you unbolt the neutral safety switch... make sure you have the tcase off too. And easiest to remove the rear,front and passenger mounts from the body and the bushing
 

turboglenn

Proven Member
6,379
104
Nov 5, 2007
RIpley, West_Virginia
I was meaning trans alone , i watched your vids, and looking back i think where i had problems was the converter center nub still being caught on the crank, i didn't even think to reach in there and push it back away from the flex plate/pilot bushing.

Detroit, i still plan to get that converter, lot of buyers been not coming through with payment so still waiting on a few bucks.

My neutral safety switch wouldn't pull out for some reason, even though the set screw area was broken and the screw was missing :(

Also my crank was missing a pilot bushing so i machined my own the other night, can anyone hey me a pic of how it sits, i.e. flush with flex plate or how?
 

Kapok6

Proven Member
1,393
259
Aug 10, 2004
Fort Worth, Texas
FWIW I don't remove the neutral safety switch. I drop and install the trans complete.

The cherry picker will make this job far easier than trying to do it from underneath with a jack. Been there. Done that. Won't do again.
 
Last edited:

DetroitStroker

Proven Member
230
39
Dec 22, 2012
Detroit, Michigan
I have only removed the trans while keeping the engine in the vehicle one time...I always yank the engine too.


Maybe I will try to do it split more often
 

donniekak

DSM Wiseman
5,614
950
Mar 23, 2008
Surprise, Arizona
I have only removed the trans while keeping the engine in the vehicle one time...I always yank the engine too.


Maybe I will try to do it split more often
I'm not sure if you have a 1g, or 2g car. But it's easier to pull just the trans with a 1g. The 1g only has one mount on the trans, unlike 3 with the 2g.
 

DetroitStroker

Proven Member
230
39
Dec 22, 2012
Detroit, Michigan
It's a 1g. How about going back in? If you have both an engine and trans out, do you guys install the engine first then the trans?
I'm not sure if you have a 1g, or 2g car. But it's easier to pull just the trans with a 1g. The 1g only has one mount on the trans, unlike 3 with the 2g.
 
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