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1G Transmission output shaft SEAL

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Adrian97

5+ Year Contributor
100
2
Mar 3, 2018
Göteborg, Europe
Hey Guys!
I will take off transmission soon to mount new Clutch and I also want to change Output shaft seal
this one ( and others axle seals)
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Can i take off the seal with screwdriver and just put new seal back ? or I need to take off whole output shaft ? do I have to lubricate new seal ?
 
Change like any other seal, a light coating of grease on new seal and shaft .
 
Can i take off the seal with screwdriver and just put new seal back ?
You can do that but just be very careful not to damage the shaft and/or the housing. That seal is not that hard to remove, so if you use a hook pick or a small pry type tool would be nicer and easier.
 
That's right you don't need to take the transmission apart. It is definitely a lot easier if you have the transmission out of the car as there's not much room to get in there while it's in the car. I just replaced mine as I was doing a clutch job and already had the transmission out of the car. I used a very small drill bit to make a pilot hole. Then screwed in a small screw (exercising extreme caution) and used a slide hammer to pop it out. I tried first with various different pics and other tools, but it seemed like I had to put a lot of force on it and didn't want to risk damaging sealing surfaces. (I would only recommend this method to someone with a very steady hand. As it wouldn't take much to make things a lot worse!!)
Also I ran into the issue of getting the wrong part the first time I went to the Advance Auto parts. I had looked it up online and matched it to the vehicle and they said it was the right one. I should have known better and taken the part out and brought it with, but the second time I went there I gave them the Mitsubishi part number that's listed above and they were able to get me the right part. The National P/N is: 223014.

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Yep, same concept as what I did. I just used a smaller drill bit and a fine thread sheetrock screw. Then I just used a slide hammer, but I'm sure it would have pulled out fine with the pliers too. It was in there pretty good though.
 
I recall getting the output seal to let go from my xfer case (little different) took an hour with a slide hammer, and still almost didn’t get it. Sometimes they just don’t want to let go. Yours shoud be fine, though. Btw, if you don’t have the proper driver to get it back in, (handy but a bit pricey if you don’t change seals that often) I suggest a trip to the hardware to find which size of pvc pipe fitting is the best fit. They can be trimmed a bit to fit, have enough strength to drive a seam in, but are weak enough to not damage metal.
Let us know how it all goes.
 
I recall getting the output seal to let go from my xfer case (little different) took an hour with a slide hammer, and still almost didn’t get it. Sometimes they just don’t want to let go. Yours shoud be fine, though. Btw, if you don’t have the proper driver to get it back in, (handy but a bit pricey if you don’t change seals that often) I suggest a trip to the hardware to find which size of pvc pipe fitting is the best fit. They can be trimmed a bit to fit, have enough strength to drive a seam in, but are weak enough to not damage metal.
Let us know how it all goes.
I usually just use a socket, but you need to really deep well socket to do it there and it could mess up surfaces. Thanks for the tip!! I'll be using this way from now on. It went in good. I also added a little RTV to the outside edge and grease to the inside edge that meets the shaft. I can't remember who mentioned that but thanks for the tip!
 
I recall getting the output seal to let go from my xfer case (little different) took an hour with a slide hammer, and still almost didn’t get it. Sometimes they just don’t want to let go. Yours shoud be fine, though. Btw, if you don’t have the proper driver to get it back in, (handy but a bit pricey if you don’t change seals that often) I suggest a trip to the hardware to find which size of pvc pipe fitting is the best fit. They can be trimmed a bit to fit, have enough strength to drive a seam in, but are weak enough to not damage metal.
Let us know how it all goes.
This is my favorite way to drive seals. PVC pipe.
I also found a PVC coupler (2"??) fits perfectly around an awd drivers axle seal.
 
Yeah, between the pipe and fittings ( some fit inside, some outside) you can get quite a range, and with a file you can quickly customize those for OD or ID. I’m a civil engineer, so along with any plumbers out there, very familiar with pipe and fitting sizes. I did the outer (hub) wheel seals with one as well. You can also thread a redcer(s), nipple of steel pipe and steel cap at times for the perfect hammer-tapping end, which drives very evenly.
Glad it worked out.
 
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