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Transmission not going into gear

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Carney714

10+ Year Contributor
101
0
Jun 4, 2012
Santa Ana, California
This problem happen yesterday out of nowhere. It wasnt a "it got worse over time" type of thing.

Clutch has roughly 7k to it. proper break in. I have a southbend clutch with act light flywheel (did resurface and step when installed the clutch)

Now, everything worked fine, never had a grinding problem, shifting problem till yesterday. Basically i rolled up to a red light. Shifted to neutral. I than tried to go into 1st gear and it wouldnt go in, i tried second, third and so on. it was impossible to shift into any gear.
maybe 10 seconds of hesitation, it finally went into first and i took off, it was really hard to get into second, third wasnt to bad. but still hard.

happen again next light, i than parked turned off the car. and i could shift into any gear with ease.
Than it magically worked all day with no problem.

Now today. my car was parked at a local market. I couldnt get into reverse, it was grinding. took three tries. Throughout the ride back home, it was mildly hard to shift into gear and i could smell my clutch burning a little when i shifted...

i know my clutch isnt slipping cause i can go into WOT without slipping. When i got home, it started to shift perfectly once again. i had my brother step on the clutch pedal and i can see the slave rod travel all the way.

What could be the problem? If my clutch is bad, wouldnt it grind all the time and on WOT ill be slipping?

im guessing my hydraulic system is going out. The master has new seals installed around 8k miles ago (aftermarket seals and rod). The slave cylinder mileage is unknown
 
That southbend clutch was like 450. im hoping its not the problem

I can rebuild the Slave and Master with OEM parts, or Think its better to get everything brand new?

rebuilding them is really easy
 
I know they are cheap, but I like oem parts. It'll be like 200 for both. While a rebuild kit is cheaper. But I'll start with my slave.
 
I wouldn't be too concerned with staying oem on something like those. You can go on rockauto.com and have both for less than $100 easy... Take your pick of which brand you want... Bendix, beck-arnley, wagner, etc. all as good as or better than oem IMHO.
 
Leave the car in the garage overnight, and leave a bunch of newspapers on the ground. The next day look for any leaks. Also check your transmission mounts. There is one located between the tranny and the firewall. Make sure it's not cracked. also try to bleed out your master cylinder of any air
 
It sounds like a hydraulic system issue, likely a dying master or damaged hydraulic line, or you need to adjust your clutch.

Have you adjusted the clutch assembly since installlation and break in? Have you changed the brake hydraulic fluid for the clutch master cylinder with new/fresh sealed container? DOT 3/4, valvoline synthetic brake fluid works excellent.
 
No leaks, properly bled, and proper adjustment before it happen. Tranny has redline fluid. I think it might be the tranny, Ive always had a plan to rebuild one with the evo conversion and a spider. with double synchros on all the gears. And while im at it, ill swap out the hydraulic system

first gear would sometimes pop out. Im just hoping its not clutch related ha.

sorry for the late reply, im out of country since yesterday. So while im out, im getting a quote for the rebuild
 
1st gear popout is wiped out intermediate shaft bearings. You are also dealing with a transmission in need of a rebuild.

As well, you can have significant clutch disengagement issues or inconsistent issues with a damaged master cylinder inner piston seal. There are two piston seals on the master piston, inner and outer; inner will cause these issues as it will leak fluid pressure or draw air into the system while the outer seal will show visible leakage when it fails.

Either way, I still have brand new OEM 1G and 2G DSM masters and slaves, and 2G rebuild kits available.
 
Finally back from being out of the states. So car sat for 10 days. No leaks under car. and i decided to go on a little drive.

turned on the car and let it warm up. Tried to go in to reverse and it was grinding. Went back into neutral and tried again and was grinding and eventually got it into gear. When it got into gear the car jumped as if i suddenly let the clutch go.
Went back into neutral and back into reverse and it went in just fine. drove to my cousins house and back with no issue in any gear. I had my cousin press the clutch in and out and I could see the slave cylinder rod extending all the way. (fork and pivot ball is new)

So i pretty sure my hydraulic system is working fine, but when i got into reverse and the car jumped as if the clutch was engage, does that mean it has something to do with my clutch? Or still has to do with my transmission?
Thanks guys! really appreciate the help!!
 
You are dragging the clutch. You either still have air in the hydraulic system or you are out of adjustment and need to increase the throw of the master cylinder adjustment rod.
 
Ill re-bleed the system. The adjustment should be good. did it not to long ago. ..

ill lift the car and remove the fork boot and look inside while someone presses on the clutch.
 
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