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2G Transmission issues - throw out bearing

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I"m in central illinois. Fastenal won't ship to you. But it's a fwd (85lbs) so it might be able to go via UPS. Cross that bridge when we get there. I'll hold it for a couple months. I'm not going to get to working on it for a while anyway.
 
The snout broke when the tob broke years ago. My guess is that with the tob coming apart, the fork got tossed around whenever the tob made contact with the pressure plate while it was spinning(it broke while I was driving, thankfully I was driving on a residential street approaching a stop sign so it happened at low speed) and the constant thrashing of all the metal bits and the fork hitting the snout as a result ended up breaking the snout as well. After all, the fork is hardened steel and the snout is aluminum. At least, that what I think happened. Thankfully the shaft is fine and the damage was only to the tob and the snout.

The only ways I can fathom a suitable repair is to create a hinge for the fork instead of resting on the pivot ball. (Or an external bracketing to center the forks action) Or to use a hydraulic slave inside the transmission like is used on a t56 manual transmission.

The t56 trans in the camaro and corvette mounts inside the transmission, however you would need to first see what the amount of throw the stock fork is suppose to have and how much a hydraulic slave extends

Just for reference its a slave you would mount or weld into the face plate of the trans. Looks like other cars do hydraulic internal slave conversions as well

Buying a used trans is for sure the better option

Heres one for hondas, the screen shot photos at the bottom are for a camaro conversion

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The only ways I can fathom a suitable repair is to create a hinge for the fork instead of resting on the pivot ball. (Or an external bracketing to center the forks action) Or to use a hydraulic slave inside the transmission like is used on a t56 manual transmission.

The t56 trans in the camaro and corvette mounts inside the transmission, however you would need to first see what the amount of throw the stock fork is suppose to have and how much a hydraulic slave extends

Just for reference its a slave you would mount or weld into the face plate of the trans. Looks like other cars do hydraulic internal slave conversions as well

Buying a used trans is for sure the better option

Heres one for hondas, the screen shot photos at the bottom are for a camaro conversion

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Thank you. I had been thinking about going this route but I wasn't sure if it was even feasible. I needed more information but wasn't even sure where to begin since I ha be never worked with a hydraulic clutch before, although I do understand how it works. I'd just need to find a suitable one that will fit, of good build quality, and find a correct way to safely, and securely mount it onto the transmission housing. Any information, advice, or suggestions on what type of tob to look for would be appreciated, but your response was helpful enough as it is. I appreciate it.
 
After reading all this I wouldn't even attempt that. You still don't have a surface for a hydraulic bearing to sit. Would be easier to just fix it. Budget or not sometimes the cost just is what it is. This is a major failure. I would troll every dsm classified site you can find. Somebody has a broken fwd trans sitting in a shed etc
 
After reading all this I wouldn't even attempt that. You still don't have a surface for a hydraulic bearing to sit. Would be easier to just fix it. Budget or not sometimes the cost just is what it is. This is a major failure. I would troll every dsm classified site you can find. Somebody has a broken fwd trans sitting in a shed etc
Yeah, you do make a good point. I simply hadn't considered that it'd be a total loss because it seemed like a small thing, considering that 90%+ of the transmission is still in good shape, but it's essentially the equivalent of a crack on the engine block: it may look small considering that every other part of the engine is still good, but that little crack poses a huge risk of potential catastrophic failure. I knew from the beginning I'd have to replace the transmission but was hoping to find some clever solution or perhaps a method that someone with more skills and knowledge had found. But anyways, I appreciate the input, thanks
 
Just wanted to thank everyone for their contribution. As pauleyman stated: 'sometimes the cost is just what it is'. At this point, I'll consider the question I initially asked answered. It will probably still take me some time to find a transmission and since I can't have "a disabled car parked on the property for an extended period of time" due to HOA regulations, I will proceed with an experiment I've been working on in the meantime. I'll try to document the progress and provide an update of the results. I figure that once I'm done, my experience can provide either a) a temporary fix that works, or b) another example of what not to do, for anyone else who might end up in a similar situation as me. Whatever the results are, it may help to save someone else time, money, and effort. And who knows? Maybe my crazy idea works and I end up coming up with something with that no one else has ever thought of before until I came along and proved everyone wrong. I'd just need for everyone to call me 'crazy' first for that to happen. Or [likely] I'll just prove them right when I have to get my car towed home... again. 🥲... Damn, out of all of the things I've spent my money on for this car, that AAA premium membership has been one of the best investments so far... 👍 Anyway, just wanted to thank everyone for their contribution. I'll be back later with the results...
 
After all, the fork is hardened steel and the snout is aluminum.

At least, that what I think happened. Thankfully the shaft is fine and the damage was only to the TOB and the snout.
Am I the only one that thinks the snout is iron, not aluminum, or did I miss something?
 
Am I the only one that thinks the snout is iron, not aluminum, or did I miss something?

Youre not wrong, but also not technically correct in this situation? I believe he said he has a 2g fwd

Maybe the iron sleeve can be used to help him make a better solution?


Second thread discussion of the issue and using the iron sleeve in a fwd 2g

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**Update**

Well, I tried the idea I came up with and put the back together, and... looks like it worked. It's still a bit early to tell for sure, but I drove the car once around the block and the gears shifted smoothly. I only got to 3rd gear in the roads around my house so I'll have to drive the car a bit more to get a better idea of how effective it is and especially the longevity. I'm not expecting this to be a permanent fix tho, I still plan on getting another transmission, but at least the car is running for now. I can provide more details as to what I did, if anyone is interested, or in the even they are in the same situation. I'll post a picture or two of what I came up with and can explain in more details later. I'll also update how durable it was, so if I don't return to say that I have some bad news, that means the car is still running. Thanks to everyone for their help, I appreciate it and It's what keeps the DSM community alive.

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Youre not wrong, but also not technically correct in this situation? I believe he said he has a 2g fwd

Maybe the iron sleeve can be used to help him make a better solution?


Second thread discussion of the issue and using the iron sleeve in a fwd 2g

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Hmm... That post might have been useful earlier, but I did not come across it when I first made the post. I'm not entirely sure how they got the TOB to pull out the sleeve tho. I thought it was part of the housing and even if you can find a replacement for it, it doesn't just bolt back there. I got a few replies explaining that exact thing. It would be helpful to find a proper solution though, since it seems like I'm not the only one who had something like this happen. Also, I thought the sleeve was made of aluminum, like the rest transmission casing, is that not correct? Cuz if it's a different material then it could pose another issue if trying to replace the sleeve. I'm not an expert or anything, but I thought you wouldn't be able to weld different types of metals together, like aluminum to steel/iron. It might work with different "grades"(might not be the right term, I've heard people saying something like "steel xxxx" where the X's are certain numbers to indicate the "grade" of the steel) but not different types.
 
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