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Transfer case toast or a feature?

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curt-s

Supporting Member
2,417
1,141
Dec 21, 2008
Winnipeg, MB_Canada
Alright, so some have probably seen what came out of my transfer case a couple weeks ago (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/what-did-you-do-to-your-dsm-today.382387/post-153883697) and today had some time to actually open it up and take a basic look. Keep in mind, this is my first time getting into a transmission, transfer case, or differential.

The gears themselves look good still, but I can't say the same thing for the tapered roller bearings -- especially the inner one. Reading Tim's breakdown (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/first-time-dsm-owner.527605/post-153754810) was beneficial as it seemed to validate that this bearing may have some excessive play. I'm not 100% certain how solid the bearings cage halves should be, as they both (inner and outer) have play, but the inner one seems to be a bit more. Not a big deal, I'll replace both.

Where I'm now thinking there may be a bigger problem is the inner bearing race. It can be rotated in it's spot within the front housing. The shim is there, but you can actually turn the race. That doesn't seem right to me. In fact, it came mostly out just by fingers, then the rest by a literal tap with a pin punch and hammer. At that point, I didn't bother disassembling the mid or tail housings and instead decided to seek counsel. The outer race pressed into the side cover is immobile, at least, by hand movement.

Does this spell doom for the transfer case?

Can provide pictures, if it helps, of the rest. As I said, the gears look good. Wear pattern is well centered on the splines, and there is no heat scorching or deformities visible, but I don't have measurements because if it's trash, there's very little point in getting things checked further.
 
Incoming photos
If I could spin the race by my fingers I would say it had to be moving at least somewhat. However the bearing also freely moved, and with less friction.
That bearing does have a fair bit of wobble play
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And that's what I'm trying to figure out, as the ASE book posted a while back only mentions "install bearing race".. but I can't find anything at all yet about the method. Hoping someone has done a full overhaul on it so I can pry knowledge from cranium

From the looks of the bore, it doesn't appear as if a tightly fit race had given up and spun
Especially when there's a bearing as the only other contact which did not bind


Grr.
 
Those type of bearings don’t usually have an interference fit in the case. I guess they rely on preload to keep from spinning?

Also your fluid looks like shockproof and another fluid that have separated. Was it metallic? Did it stick to a magnet?
 
I'm pretty sure it was moisture as the air bleeder didn't have any sealant on it as required (3M Super Weatherstrip N8001).
The drain plug definitely was caked. Looking at the bearings, especially the inner one, I'm certain they need to be replaced.

But this isn't strictly a bearing question, it's a bearing race question -- is the inner race pressed in, or was it designed to be capable of rotation in its bore?

I don't understand how, if the tapered roller bearing never seized, the race itself could suddenly decide to dislodge and rotate like a spun rod bearing. That's why I'm leaning more to the side that the race's outer diameter is ever so slightly less (by thousands of an inch) than the inner diameter of the bore. That is, it can rotate. However, before I bother disassembling, cleaning, and procuring replacement bearings for the transfer case, I'd like this confirmed by someone who has gone through this or has one on hand to validate.

There is zero information that I can find that describes the installation procedure of this race, only that it gets "installed."
 
Well that is good news then for my transfer case. I didn't expect that much play in the bearings and since the fluid was ruined with fine metal on the plug, I think it's still due for a thorough cleaning inside and out. Perhaps I should pick up new bearings anyway. The fluid drained off them was metallized.
It's my hope that it has been the source of my low speed whine.

Tcase and rear diff will be filled with redline 75w90
 
I agree with everything bastard said. If it is like a transmission, the bearing race should slip in or require light pressure. When fully seated, it should not have any play in the bore. If you think about it, it can not be pressed in because there would be no way to remove it for overhaul.
 
Ok, I spoke too soon. Finding these bearings is going to be a challenge.
In the apparent absense of OEM, the only non-OEM ones I've been able to come across are:

Timkin SET6
SKF lm67048vp
SKF br6vp
SKF 32008xvp
 
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All the races in these trans are a slip to VERY light press fit.

I don't see anything wrong with the bearings that were shown. Typical wear, will run a long time. Don't use shockproof, just a good 80/90.
So I've decided not to change the bearings based on this examination.. (and that I haven't a damn clue which aftermarket bearing is the correct replacement)

I was told the xfer and diff were filled with redline heavy shockproof which, from my readings of basically every transfer case and fluid related thread on here, seems to be the most popular.. but this 80/90 recommendation has been sticking in my head for a while.

Power level - doubt I'll ever dyno it but I'm looking at about 20psi on a 68HTAv3. Yes, underutilized, but it's going on regardless. I'm limited to the only readily available octane here which is 91 (+any boosters).
It's a summer-only car. Outdoor temps will range from 18C to 35C, but mostly in the middle because +30 is too damned hot.

No track, just a cruiser and short pulls. I'm not (edit: *that much of*) a dick on the street. Basically I just want to represent the platform in the city and still have something on tap.

From this, I see possible choices:

Redline 75w90 GL5 in both xfer case and diff
Redline 75w140 in diff (with possible 75w140NS in xfer case only)
Redline Lightweight Shockproof
Redline Heavy Shockproof

Given my use case, I would tend to lean to Lightweight, but I suppose I'm looking for a reason not to run Heavyweight other than I had a low speed whine which disappeared after 30km/h or so that I'm hoping to blame on the water infiltration of my fluid -- which by the looks of the internals I caught early enough.
 
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Ok nevermind that question, as I settled on lightweight shockproof

New question: anybody ever flush our tcase with diesel fuel before? I've disassembled most of it but I'm not taking the nut off the shaft. The output seal looks new and I think someone had this thing apart anyway given the sealant didn't look quite factory

But it needs a flushing purely due to the sediment and water that was in there. A local old school performance shop recommended diesel fuel in a mustard bottle and just blast it through. I've got an extra quart of shockproof to drain through after, but just want to confirm diesel isn't going to harm anything in the case (bearings, races, etc)
 
Diesel fuel or kerosene is what I would use. Afterwards I would spray it out with brake/carb cleaner and then following behind blowing it out with compressed air.

I mention kerosene because it’s pretty much diesel fuel that is much thinner. Diesel fuel will leave an oily residue behind as where kerosene won’t as much. Diesel fuel has more lubricating capacity than kerosene. Anytime I have a diesel truck gel up from cold winters I use kerosene to thin it out and get them back in the road. Much better than diesel 911 IMO.

Just my opinion. I don’t consider myself a drivetrain expert though.

-Daniel
 
Ok so I've flushed out all three sections of the transfer case with diesel, followed up by a lot of nonchlorinated brake cleaner, then compressed air. Immediately followed with lightweight just to relube the parts and prevent rust on bare surfaces. Same thing to the driven gear assembly

Now I'm reading the FSM reassembly steps and it's mentioning mating marks on driven bevel gear and drive bevel gear input.. which I don't seem to have. The cases have their marks but I can't find them on the gear

While I could have marked the drive bevel gear before disassembly there's no way I would be able to do the driven.

Am I crazy here

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