Tools needed for head and TB swap?

[Rodman]

I have decided to go with a rebuilt head with the addition of SS valves and a 3 angle valve job. I will also add APR head studs and HKS cams. I plan on using a OEM head gasket since i will not be doing anything to the block. I'm also replacing the timing belt, tensor and pullys and removing the balance shafts. So what tools will I need to get this job done? I have searched this board and Club DSM and still I'm alittle confused. Besides a timing belt tensor tool what else am I going to need besides the basic tools I already have?
I'm still confused in alot of areas about this mini rebuild. Like when you swap in the new cams, how do you get them in properly in relation to how the old ones were on there? I just want to know EVERYTHING before hand so I can work it out in my head prior to actually doing the job.
BTW, if anyone wants to comment on my upgrade path regarding the items I have chosen feel free to voice your opinion

 

[95talontsi]

if you have to ask you probably shouldn't be doing it, but other than a "good set, or wrenchs and socket set" the tensior tool and a spring compressor tool would be needed. getting the engine to top dead center is fairly easy, turn the engine over till the two marks face into each other on the timing chain.

 

[jdmawd]

Originally posted by 95talontsi
if you have to ask you probably shouldn't be doing it, but other than a "good set, or wrenchs and socket set" the tensior tool and a spring compressor tool would be needed. getting the engine to top dead center is fairly easy, turn the engine over till the two marks face into each other on the timing chain.

does his mechanical skill have to do with his ability to do the work maybe he just wanted to know exactly what specific or specialty tools he might need if any

 

[larryd]

torque wrench
1/2" wrech to rotate engine about crank pulley

when you put cams in they have a dowel pin in them that can only go into the cam gear in one spot, you align your cams by aligning the cam gear markings while the engine is at TDC. I strongly suggest getting the Mitsu service manuals before you take on this amount of work on your own.

 

[CH152]

I think the VFAQ will show you some what as to how to go abotu the tensioning and stuff... As for tools... 12mm-17mm is what should be needed and like larry said a 1/2 drive ratchet to rotate the crank. Oh and pull the plugs on the motor too so you cna turn the motor over easier.

 

[Rodman]

Thanx for the bit of input guys. I have all the tools mentioned above and then some, including a full line of air tools. I have swaped a turbo, manifold, 02 housing, fuel pump, AFPR, injectors, rebuilt the throttle body with new 0-rings, exhaust, alt, powersteering pump, clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, UICP, LICPs, big brake upgrade, SS lines, did the GC suspention, rebuilt the drive shaft, U-joints, carrier bearings, replaced front CV axles, soldered in the 2G mas and S-AFC ect.. Anyway I think I'm ready for the TB, BS kit and head swap.
Couple things, the FAQ on the TB talks about some tools knowone has mentioned yet
The timing belt tensioner tool I get. But then thers the silent shaft sprocket lock, crank holder, plug wrench for the oil pump?, timing belt wrench, and one other tool for holding or getting a grip on the idler pully part# MD998752
BTW I'm getting a rebuilt head with a 3 angle valve job and SS valves ALL assembled, so I don't need the spring compresser right?
C'mon people you can do better than that

 

[CH152]

You dont need anything special for a TB removal.. A 12mm i think, pull the elbow off and then then TB after you disconect the Vacuum lines on it.. Simple.... If the Head is assembled like at a shop or osmething than no, a spring compressor isnt needed...

 

[Rodman]

Sorry, TB stands for timing belt.

 

[americanjebus]

alright i am in the process of finishing my head and here are the tools that you will need.
-10mm. 12mm, 14mm, and 17mm for all the missalanious bolts around and on the head.
-you will need a 10mm hex (five point allen) for the stock head bolts.
-and if you are putting arp they take a 14mm 12 point socket( i had to custom make my socket so i dint hit the springs and so that the stud would go through the hole in the socket).
and a big 1/2 drive extension and ratchet and of course a torque wrench.
i think besides like plyers and screwdrivers that sould be all that you need.
good luck