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To all people w/ BAER TRACK Big Brake Kit!!!!! PLEASE READ!!!!!!!

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Originally posted by BOMEX DSM
IF you own the kit u will noticed that the 13inch kit doesnt use the whole rotor it doesnt put to use the inner part of the rotor where the hat belongs. As u can see on the picture on my profile u can see the darker area where the caliper clamps and the lighter inner area where it doesnt. The 12inch uses the whole rotor meanwhile making it the same clamping surface of the caliper so the 13 isnt better than the 12 just looks better and prevents u from using 16inch wheels and some 17s. Believe me i have first hand experience with the brakes as i tried to fit some stealth RT/TT wheels and they wouldnt clear the 97-99 GSX wheels however clear both being 17inches. Hope that helps and if u have any other questions feel free to PM me.:thumb:
You are forgetting about leverage. The farther from the center the less force it takes to slow it.
 
The larger rotor gives one main benefit. Temp reduction. There is more material to disipate the heat. The second bonus is the slightly higher torue that the brakes can apply. There really isn't much in it. I doubt there is a difference in stopping ability between the 12" and 13" rotor to actually justify the difference.

There is no difference in the area that the pad contacts the rotor... the pads are exactly the same.
 
Originally posted by Omega
The second bonus is the slightly higher torue that the brakes can apply. There really isn't much in it. I doubt there is a difference in stopping ability between the 12" and 13" rotor to actually justify the difference.

The difference in braking power is 8%. Whether you think that this is a significant difference is up to you, but it's a difference, your doubts not-withstanding.

- Jtoby
 
Alright let me break in here real quick. I have a gsx, supposedly has big brakes already, so are these rotors an upgrade for the gsx or just the gst. Also does it upgrade the back brakes too? I imagine if the car did not have abs the braking would become more biased towards the front if the backs wern't upgraded as well. Thanks,


Chris.
 
This has bigger rotors/pads than your "big" braked GSX. They are an upgrade for 80% of the cars on the road today... not just the DSM's.

No, the ~$800 is just for the front. Rear upgrades are mainly for looks anyway. ABS doesn't bias the brakes, it prevents you from completely locking up your wheel(s). The BEAR kits do not require a different (or aftermarket) proportioning valve. You bolt them in and enjoy being able to stop quickly and consistenly.
 
Originally posted by Omega
This has bigger rotors/pads than your "big" braked GSX. They are an upgrade for 80% of the cars on the road today... not just the DSM's.

No, the ~$800 is just for the front. Rear upgrades are mainly for looks anyway. ABS doesn't bias the brakes, it prevents you from completely locking up your wheel(s). The BEAR kits do not require a different (or aftermarket) proportioning valve. You bolt them in and enjoy being able to stop quickly and consistenly.
So it is a replace ment caliper too. Isn't there just a rotor upgrade out there just for the gsx brakes? I must have been missinformed.
 
Yes the caliper and mounting assembly are included. I didn't mention that. When you go to a bigger pad you have to upgrade the caliper also. The BAER kits include: caliper, caliper frame, mounting bracket, pads, rotor, brake lines, and all hardware.
 
Originally posted by 14.5 drift
So it is a replace ment caliper too. Isn't there just a rotor upgrade out there just for the gsx brakes? I must have been missinformed.

There are Bigger Rotor Replacements for the GSX and GST for that matter, AEM makes them, and you can use your stock caliper! But i'd rather go with the Baer Kit because i've heard that the Dual Piston Sliding Caliper is suposed to be better than the GSX Brakes, so i'm going with the Baer 12" System! and just matching Rotors for the rear!
 
"The difference in braking power is 8%"

While the % may be about right, the comment of 'power' is not.

The total rotor torque required to lock the wheel/tire is constant. The larger rotor simply means that less pressure is required for the same final result.

If you now require 800psi to generat X torque you can then do the same with perhaps 750psi given the rotor change.

This also comes into play a lot with pad changes. A sticky pad with a High Cf will bite more with less pressure.

A small 10" rotor with magapads will do as well stopping the car as 14" rotors and mondopads, one just does it more efficiently and repeatedly. That "these brakes feel so much better" comes from the smaller pistons often used to compensate for the larger rotor used. The required area being less due to the rotor. The resulting pedal feel; firmer.
 
Excuse me.

The difference in braking torque for a fix line pressure is 8% under the assumption that the rotor change does not alter anything else, blah blah blah.

- Jtoby
 
Can a spacer be used on the wheel for the 13" Baer kit to work with the 97-99 17" GSX wheels on a 1G? I ordered a set for my '94 Talon FWD with GSX wheels since they fit on my friends '98 GSX. If nothing else, could a 2G kit be used on a 1G?
 
Considering that 1G and 2G wheels are interchangable there shouldn't be a problem. The issue with the track kit is that the caliper hits some 17" rims. If you tested that the GSX rims fit over the caliper (or downloaded the template from their site), you will be good to go. Order the 1G kit, since that is the car that you have.
 
Hub and wheel are the same, so are the caliper mounts to centerline. The one thing to consider however is the set back of the 2G can be much greater than the 1G given the different suspension. The 1G is quite 'narrow' were as the 2G offers much more caliper friendly applications.
 
I downloaded the template and according to that the calipers will rub on the insides of the spokes. How wide of a spacer can safely be run on the stuck studs?
 
Personally I wouldn't go any more than an 1/8th of an inch. I know people have gone a 1/4 with no problems.

Do you know how much you need?
 
It is hard to tell with just a cardboard template, but I am guess it will be closer to 1/4".
 
Put washers under the template at the spindle. When you have an 1/8th of an inch from the caliper to the rim, measure the thickness of the washer(s). That should get you pretty damn close as to how thick of a spacer you need.
 
A 5/32" thick piece of cardboard as a spacer seems to but enough for everything to clear. I will most likely be trying some 5/16" spacers. Anyone have actual experience running spacers?
 
I have used 2 different types. My Formula had 1/8th inch spacers on the rear wheels when it had steel drums (to stop the aluminum wheels from coroding themselves to the steel drum) I now have 4th gen wheels that require adaptors. They are 2.25 and 1.75 spacers for the front and rear. I never had problems with either type.

Give the 5/16th spacers a shot. Make sure that you can get at least 3 threads into the lugnut. Torque to spec and drive around for a bit. Then recheck the lugnuts. Try to keep the spacer centered on the flange. If you don't you can run into vibration issues.
 
Thanks for the info. My friend is running 5/16th on his Laser for drag-slicks and they seem to fit fine with the stock studs.
 
I made a cardboard spacer and I think I got everything figured out. I am going to try running a 5/16" spacer.
 
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