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Timing belt tool: cam gear lock tool

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Marcopolo

Proven Member
30
0
Nov 11, 2012
Warren, Arkansas
I just got this cam gear lock tool from ebay and was wondering if it will work on a 4g63T since it only says 4g63 on it not like the tool from AMS. When I came back from school I was so amused that I went outside to place it in between the cams but it didn't fit with timing belt on. Does the timing belt has to be off in order for the tool to fit inbetween the cams ?
 

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Timing a 4g63 is the same whether it has a turbo or not. There's no such thing as a 4g63T.
 
I have the Jay Racing Cam gear tool, and it fits in there pretty snug. If your belt has slack between the gears and they are not perfectly lined up it might not fit. Having the timing belt off would better allow you to line up the gears in such a way that the tool fits between them.
 
I agree with star Fawkes. And I'm curious about that tool. Do you slide it between the cam shaft
Sprockets. Pushing it in directly in the center, meaning not from the top or bottom? And Wes i thought the 4g63t engine was just the turbocharged version of the variant 4g63 engine? Sorry for asking questions on this thread too.
 
I agree with star fawkes. I just did my timing with the jays racing cam gear tool. Just make sure your cams are lined up perfectly and slide that puppy in there.
 
You may need to wiggle the cams a bit to get everything lined up. It's not uncommon.

https://www.euroexportinc.com/mitsubishi-4g63-cam-gear-lock-timing-belt-installation-tool-tbi10002/
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Dowel pins need to be pointing to 12 o'clock. Timing marks need to be aligned.

For those interested, you can also make a cam lock tool out of appropriately sized bolt, nut and 2 washers. It's the same idea. The washers lock between the teeth of the cams. Adjust the nut to get the spacing between the washers correct.
 
Dowel pins need to be pointing to 12 o'clock. Timing marks need to be aligned.

For those interested, you can also make a cam lock tool out of appropriately sized bolt, nut and 2 washers. It's the same idea. The washers lock between the teeth of the cams. Adjust the nut to get the spacing between the washers correct.


The dowel pins at 12 o'clock is the key, if you ignore the timing marks all together, and the dowel pins are at 12, it will work.


Neat idea with the cam lock bolt, I like it.
 
I agree with star Fawkes. And I'm curious about that tool. Do you slide it between the cam shaft
Sprockets. Pushing it in directly in the center, meaning not from the top or bottom? And Wes i thought the 4g63t engine was just the turbocharged version of the variant 4g63 engine? Sorry for asking questions on this thread too.

They all say 4g63 on the block. This isnt a nissan :)
 
They all say 4g63 on the block. This isnt a nissan :)

Exactly. Show me an engine block that says 4g63T and I'll start calling it that. Until then, they're just 4g63's.

For those interested, you can also make a cam lock tool out of appropriately sized bolt, nut and 2 washers. It's the same idea. The washers lock between the teeth of the cams. Adjust the nut to get the spacing between the washers correct.

That's not a bad idea! :thumb:
 
The dowel pins at 12 o'clock is the key, if you ignore the timing marks all together, and the dowel pins are at 12, it will work.


Neat idea with the cam lock bolt, I like it.

Do not ignore the timing marks, they are there for a reason. The pins can appear to be straight up but the marks still be off one or two, more than likely on the exhaust side. I've always used a wrench to time mine because even the manual states the exhaust side has a tendacy to roll off one. I just get a buddy to hold it while I line everything up. I've seen the timing videos and they've used clips, and I've seen people use hose clamps, whatever's easiest for you.

But do not just go by the pins. Get that perfect groove in the gears.
 
Do not ignore the timing marks, they are there for a reason. The pins can appear to be straight up but the marks still be off one or two, more than likely on the exhaust side. I've always used a wrench to time mine because even the manual states the exhaust side has a tendacy to roll off one. I just get a buddy to hold it while I line everything up. I've seen the timing videos and they've used clips, and I've seen people use hose clamps, whatever's easiest for you.

But do not just go by the pins. Get that perfect groove in the gears.

Thats the thing though, Since the beginning of time(ing), these motors ALWAYS run with the dowels at top. I was told this method years ago on IRC, done it for years, tried and tested for me.

Just personal preference I guess, but I can time my engines a lot faster like this. I used to spend hours fighting with the marks.
 
Yeah I've spent hours trying to get it right too.

So after you get them settled and pull the grenade pin, rotate the motor a few times and the marks don't line up you just leave it?

Since this is the newb section, I don't think that way is probably the best way to teach the new guys IMO.

Really want to make it easier? BSEK. Completely eliminates the shaft timing. Crank, cams, go.
 
Yeah I've spent hours trying to get it right too.

So after you get them settled and pull the grenade pin, rotate the motor a few times and the marks don't line up you just leave it?

Since this is the newb section, I don't think that way is probably the best way to teach the new guys IMO.

Really want to make it easier? BSEK. Completely eliminates the shaft timing. Crank, cams, go.

I know what you're getting at. But here is how i see it.

The cam dowel pins are designed to be at 12 when setting the timing, no if's ands or buts, that is the position the cam itself must be in. If it is swayed right or left, it is out of time. No matter what the marks say.

Its VERY easy to have a cam half a tooth forward, trying to line up another cam to match that mark, now the matched mark is off half a tooth, now the entire belt is off a tooth.

If you do this, you will see the dowel pins are going to be tilt inward of each other, or outward. You're out of time. If you are at 12, the marks will be at the very least within a 1/2 tooth of each other, thats allowing the fact that one cam is maybe a 1/4 tooth right, and the other cam is a 1/4 tooth left.

For further clarification, its 12 o'clock off the head casting. most engines have a fixed position on the head, or timing cover back plate. But in this case, we are trying to line up two moving parts in a straight line.

I personally find it Alot easier to time using the dowel pins as reference than the marks. because when i pull my grenade pin, spin it around, the marks will line up 100%.

As far as education is concerned, you're not wrong to suggest telling them the shop manual way of doing things. But i'm also not wrong for expressing the real world way to the same end goal that they may find to be perfectly acceptable and easier for them. Try it, go grab one of your old engines assuming you have one, and try this method. you have nothing to lose but a few mins of time.
 
I know what you're getting at. But here is how i see it.

The cam dowel pins are designed to be at 12 when setting the timing, no if's ands or buts, that is the position the cam itself must be in. If it is swayed right or left, it is out of time. No matter what the marks say.

Its VERY easy to have a cam half a tooth forward, trying to line up another cam to match that mark, now the matched mark is off half a tooth, now the entire belt is off a tooth.

If you do this, you will see the dowel pins are going to be tilt inward of each other, or outward. You're out of time. If you are at 12, the marks will be at the very least within a 1/2 tooth of each other, thats allowing the fact that one cam is maybe a 1/4 tooth right, and the other cam is a 1/4 tooth left.

For further clarification, its 12 o'clock off the head casting. most engines have a fixed position on the head, or timing cover back plate. But in this case, we are trying to line up two moving parts in a straight line.

I personally find it Alot easier to time using the dowel pins as reference than the marks. because when i pull my grenade pin, spin it around, the marks will line up 100%.

As far as education is concerned, you're not wrong to suggest telling them the shop manual way of doing things. But i'm also not wrong for expressing the real world way to the same end goal that they may find to be perfectly acceptable and easier for them. Try it, go grab one of your old engines assuming you have one, and try this method. you have nothing to lose but a few mins of time.

When I build my motor I will try this.

Challenge accepted.
 
Wow thanks for all the helpful information and input feels so great being helped by experts. Well I was doubting myself and this tool but now I know it will work following the advice given so thank you all and God Bless.
 
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