timing belt help, checking for TDC

[1Gina2G]

After spending alot of time researching information on here about replacing your timing belts I decided to replace mine, but I didn't realize how loose my oil pump sprocket was when I started taking off the rest of the pulleys first, so before I could line up all the timing marks, my belt was already loose.

My Cam gears are lined up and zip tied together, so I went a head and took the main timing belt off. My crankshaft sprocket plate was not inline with it's timing mark so I turned it clockwise untill it was.

My main question is, shouldn't this mean I have the #1 piston at TDC since the crankshaft sprocket is inline? and that the valves should all be closed since the cam gears are lined up?

Are there otherways to check if your at TDC incase the mark on the crank sprocket plate is off?? Im worried since the crank sprocket wasn't inline when the belt came loose.

Since I did a balance shaft delete, I don't have to worry about the oil pump sprocket, just everything else being lined up correct?

Any helps much appreciated, first timing belt replacement, switching to kevlar

 

[Calan]

You hold it in your fingers... and push it between the gears.

You'll have to rotate and wiggle the exhaust cam (and maybe the intake) a bit as you line the marks up, then just push it into place.

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[xxNocturnalxx]

Oh no, special tools to install a simple belt Once you get the parts in, I think you'll see how easy it actually is. I think part of the problem is you havn't even started the install yet.

 

[1Gina2G]

So before you release the tensioner, you have the special tool threaded into the motor mount so that it's touching the tensioner arm, so that you can back off the special tool after releasing the tensioner, is this because your not supposed to let the tensioner fully extend?

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

If it fully extends thats fine, just make sure you thread the tool back in to spec very slowly or you could damage the hydrolic tensioner. Make sure your tension is per spec (distance between top of tensioner body and tensioner pully arm) I think I used a .158 drill bit to set mine, the spec is .150-.180.

 

[1Gina2G]

If its supposed to extend fully what's the special tool for?

 

[bryanwheat]

If its supposed to extend fully what's the special tool for?

The tool is to compress the the tensioner back in without taking it off the car, or to loosen the tensioner to while taking the belt off. Letting the tensioner out all the way won't hurt anything. There is a snap ring inside to hold it from coming apart. There is nothing in the tensioner to damage really, it is just a big brass piston with no seals on it.

 

[1Gina2G]

Edit- didn't realize someone already answered in my old post.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/420910-tensioner-tool-broke-arm-didnt-swing.html

I guess it broke because I didn't loosen the tensioner pulley?

 

[xxNocturnalxx]

Yes, you should really look into VFAQ.com