The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support Rix Racing
Please Support Rix Racing

timing belt for 4g64 w/63 head?

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

H4G64T

Banned Member
1,310
11
Jul 18, 2008
Providence, Rhode_Island
anyone know who has a kevlar belt for this type of build?
 
4g63 head means 4g63 belt.. The blocks are pretty much the same so I'd imagine you would have to use 64 timing components but the 63 belt..

gates
hks
mitsu oem
power enterprise
 
You have to use a 4g64 dohc belt. 4g64 belts are a tad longer due to the increased deck height and no one makes these in kevlar. However i have a buddy that wallowed out his tentioner enough to get a 4g63 kevlar belt on. The only catch is you should degree your cams to makes sure your timing is correct. This means you need adjustable cam gears. Hope that helps.
 
I used a second 4g63 tensioner pully on the idler side using a longer bolt and a few washers to shim the pulley to the right distance from the pulley base. I still ground down the tensioner arm a little. It makes it easier to put on the belt while the motor is in the car. . . I still cant ge the exhaust cam straight up. Tell me how that's possible. The intake cam is straight up but the exhaust cam is retarded about 3 CRANKSHAFT degrees ( I degreed the cams). Actually this is probably more what I want since the 4g64 has so much pistons speed and volume flow. The motor will like more overlap and a later exhaust valve open will still give it good topend.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1232.JPG
    IMG_1232.JPG
    85.6 KB · Views: 14,841
Wow seems kind of risky. I would just buy the correct belt. You dont need any special material belt. Guys running 1000hp are still using the stock belts.
 
Stock 4g64 belt still leaves the cams out of time when you use the 63 head on the 64 block without the ever-hard-to-find 64 DOHC cam sprockets. Mine is ready to go with a little exhaust cam retard for the sake of performance. I'm not sure about the risk. The same tensioner pulley was used for years with my 8500rpm FWD car. . . I'm just using it on the other side now with the original one that came with the motor. . . The point is avoiding the $200 for cam gears for a n/t build. . .
 
The only differance in the 4g64 cam gear is the timing mark. You can remark 4g63 cam gears and be properly timed. If you just dont feel right without 4g64 cam gears then you can buy them @ slowboy for about $50. Great idea with the second tentioner tho.
 
Remarking them doesn't change the cam key orientation. Jsut makes you feel better when you spin everything to TDC. The cams are still out of time. You have to alter the location of the hole for the cam key. . . In explanation, the cam keys are straight up when in time on the 4g63. For the inner marks: The gear teeth are "female" (tooth valley) on the exhaust and "male" (tooth ridge) on the intake. They are the opposite with the 4g64. Yet the cam keys are still straight up. If you make new marks on the 4g63 cam gears, where do you put them so that the exhaust is "male" and the intake is "female" and they still are in the exact angle from the line of the gear hubs? You'd have to flip the cam gears over. . . I've toyed with that idea. And it's abit more complicated than one would think.

Cool thing about the second tensioner pulley is that you can retard or advance total cam timing a bit :). You have to play with the original tensioner also to do that.
 
However i have a buddy that wallowed out his tentioner enough to get a 4g63 kevlar belt on. The only catch is you should degree your cams to makes sure your timing is correct. This means you need adjustable cam gears. Hope that helps.

Im with you on going this route... Me and a buddy did the same thing, and it is working great...
 
I see what your saying about the cam key. It seems like it would only possibly be able to throw off your timing by a half tooth to a whole tooth at most. I superimposed a pic of a 4g64 cam gear ontop of a 4g63 cam gear, lining up the cam key holes, an noted where the marks from the '64 gear fell on the '63 gear. Made the mark on the actual gear, bolted them on an lined up the marks. Idled like stock. Its a very practical and money saving solution. A little advance or retard never hurt anyone :)
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top