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Timing belt change.

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willelvs

Proven Member
48
0
Mar 20, 2013
Anchorage, Alaska
Hey guys just wondering if any of my fellow alaskan DSMers have done a timing belt change? If so I would greatly appreciate some help. It will be in the near future hopefully as it just broke yesterday and I have yet to order parts. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but have yet to change a timing belt. Any input or physical help would be greatly appreciated. Oh and I got plenty of beer. :thumb:
 
Did it take out your valves when it broke ? Hope rest is ok. I've inherited a few broken t belt cars not pretty sometimes.
 
Honestly I'm not sure. When it broke all I heard was a pop out the exhaust cause it quit firing but no clanking or sounds of destruction. I wasn't sure what had happened when it did break so of course I tried starting my car and heard no sounds of metal on metal or anything, it spins over fine. I really don't wanna take my head off to check if I don't have to.
 
Best case will probably be two bent valves in #4 exhaust. If it broke when the dowel pins were straight up, those are the only valves open. Otherwise, probably need 16 if them. As much work as it takes changing the belt, go ahead and pull the head and check the valves. No sense doing the work twice.
 
I'm in Fairbanks, so I can't physically help. I have changed 4 timing belts and I'm currently doing a full restore. The timing belt is extremely easy to change. Be sure to change or eliminate the balance shaft belt and change the water pump while you're in there. Also, be sure you order the special tool for tensioning. Parts Dinosaur has a full timing kit for a great price and Jay racing has a full tool kit. Both companies ship really quickly to Alaska. I'm not sure if you are changing a 1G or 2G, so the CPS may be under your timing belt (2G), so be sure it doesn't come loose or chafe the new belt. Lastly, if you break the timing belt covers or the seals snap (which they usually do), contact Miller Import Auto. They are a supporting vendor on here. Just remember to take pictures step-by-step and visit VFAQ.com. Just set aside one afternoon (5-8 hrs) if it's your first time. The next time will take about 2 hours.

All you need is
10mm socket for splash shields and belt cover
12mm socket for belt removals
small hands or be mechanically inclined
rubber (not metal) oil filter removal wrench to safely rotate the crank and cams (I think you can use a 1/2 in drive)
Larger socket (somewhere 19-21mm) for engine mount
extra lift and wooden block for engine support

Mitsubishi 4-Cylinder Rebuild Parts
(one kit comes with all new bearings, water pump, all belts, and new tensioner)

Jay Racing Timing Belt Tools Kit [TBTS] - $50.00 : Jay Racing
 
@Kegler: Yea I believe the dowel pins are almost facing each other like the timing marks should be if you were installing a belt. Well I guess I get the reassurance of a new head gasket and might as well put some arp studs in. Still hoping for the best though but I guess I'll break down and take the head off.

@Rocky: Wow dude thanks for the info. I've been reading up on Vfaq and all across the forum about how to do it. My car is a 1gb and I was told that it has a 6 bolt in it but I was also told the timing belt had been changed when I got it too. Guess I should've pulled the inspection cover and double checked but everday's a learning experience I guess. :banghead: I'm also assuming that if it did bend valves then my pistons should be damaged as well? If so I guess I might as well pull the engine and start a total rebuild. Guess we will see but I gotta get a new rear end for my bronco so I got something to drive other than my bike. I'll keep you guys posted on my cars situation and again thanks for the help!!:rocks:
 
Nice. Get that Bronco running first. When my eclipse blew a ring, I bought a broken 93 explorer and threw in a Bronco II engine and rear axle from a local junk yard. You'll need that Bronco if you plan on having the DSM. My explorer is priceless. Our engines only have a few differences, so if you need, check my build journal to see what I removed to take off the head. It took me about an hour to get the head off. Be careful with the screws in the wheel well. The dirt destroys the bolts, so I snapped most of mine in half. I only have 3 screws left for my splash shields.
 
I bet whoever did the timing belt before you got the car, improperly tensioned it, which caused premature failure. Or they lied and never changed it... Regardless, rocky's info is solid, and timing belts are easy. I'd put money on a bent valve situation. The odds of that NOT happening are pretty slim when a belt breaks, from what I understand.

If you're not mechanically inclined, i'd get some help with the balance shaft removal kit. Removing the bearings and replacing them correctly can be tricky if you don't know what you're doing. There's plenty of guides online for how to do it yourself. Just be patient, go slow, take your time.
 
Hey guys thanks for the info! I finally tore into my car today and WOW!! The previous owner did some afro engineering way beyond my acceptable limits. So with that said I've got a list to start on pieces to re do. I saw that if you don't put the proper bolts back on with the oil pan 2 can rub the timing belt cause they are too long. I believe that might have been the cause. The outside of the belt closest to the engine is just ate up on the outside. Well I'll keep you guys updated as much as possible just been busy but I feel an engine pull coming on cause I'd really like to clean up the engine bay and re do stuff the half asser did plus I need a new tranny as mine suffers from bad synchos in 2nd gear.
 
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