1G timing adjustment

[#1 laser]

where do point the timing light at when adjusting the timing

 

[turbosax2]

Engine Timing

 

[BUCK]

& you'll want to set Base Idle as you set Base Timing as unless you are at Base Idle you can't set Base Timig...

Base Idle & Base Timing affect each other - IMO due to the weird ass angle we have to view the Marks from when you are squatting down & peeking thru the belts & "see" 5 BTDC you are really set at about 7 BTDC - SO when you see 2.5 BTDC it's actually about 5 IMO - I try to be in the same position/angle whenever I set mine halfway between 5 & 0 BTDC & IMO that is 5 in the real world & "seeing" 0 would be 2.5 BTDC real world IMO... BTW on my Pocketlooger I'm pulling 22 - 25 advance at WOT (Tuning guide reccommends NO LESS than 15 at WOT) & see as much as 46 degrees advance on Pocketlogger in some throttle positions - ZERO knock on 92 or 93 Octane in Winter (which of course means I could bump up Timing OR Boost) - but it runs great & I don't want to fry this old Turbo quite yet - seeing 13 PSI on POS Stock gauge.

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1g Idle & Timing Adjustment STRAIGHT FROM DSM MANUAL...

- Reset ECU to clear all the crap out ( pull Negative Battery Connector for 15 Minutes )

- With car off
- Ground that pin on the Diagnostic Connector
- Fully warm car up, No accessories on.
- Run at 2500 rpm more than 5 seconds
- Let idle for 2 minutes
- Adjust BISS 700-750 rpm
- Cut car off
-Disconnect Jumper at Diag Conn

- With Car OFF
- Connect Timing Jumper
- Fully warm up car - No accessories
- Check CURB IDLE is at 750 + or - 100 rpm (may take a little while to settle down being you just reset BISS)
- Set Timing at 5BTDC (which means you'd see 4 IMO due to bad angle)
- Cut Car OFF
- Disconnect Timing Jumper
- Cut car ON
- Check Basic Engine Timing 8BTDC (kinda jumps from 7-9 usually).

- AFTER setting Base Timing correctly per the above you could then "bump up" Base Idle a little (50 - 100 rpm) to help with the Fan cut-on - The ECU can pull more than you can retard! - Some of us have BOTH Fans cutting on simultaneously so that is loading your Alt more than a stock setup - Typically you can retard one degree when setting Base Timing & it idles smoother as long as Idle is close to spec - Setting it where you see 4 will make it more resistant to losing RPM when fans cut on.

 

[#1 laser]

but my car wont stay started to check the timin or jus idle

 

[droppinbottom]

I am going to put on my flame suit for this one.

I have put a light on my car one time and it was the biggest waste of time. I have found that if you put your base timing to factory spec 5°BTDC you will get knock due to the way a 1g ecu ramps timing so fast. I have found it best to not use a light. Assuming you have a logger of some type and your car stays running, go make a pull and get your boost set to where you want it and then check the log to see if you have any knock. If you do take away more timing. If you don't have knock add some timing but keep in mind weather and intake temps changes will affect how much timing you can really use.

 

[#1 laser]

i have a problem with knock cause i jus found my knock sensor not connected u just bought the car so im still finding the problems i need a new sensor it looks like it was ripped out the blot

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I am going to put on my flame suit for this one.

I have put a light on my car one time and it was the biggest waste of time. I have found that if you put your base timing to factory spec 5°BTDC you will get knock due to the way a 1g ecu ramps timing so fast. I have found it best to not use a light. Assuming you have a logger of some type and your car stays running, go make a pull and get your boost set to where you want it and then check the log to see if you have any knock. If you do take away more timing. If you don't have knock add some timing but keep in mind weather and intake temps changes will affect how much timing you can really use.

You're right, I would flame you, but I'm too tired. Rhetorical question : Have you ever went WOT with a car that was at 10* BTDC and then did another WOT pull at 5*BTDC? big difference. If you have the capability to (97-99's are the only exception) then you NEED to set base timing, it's foolish not to. You're just including another potential problem in your setup.

i have a problem with knock cause i jus found my knock sensor not connected u just bought the car so im still finding the problems i need a new sensor it looks like it was ripped out the blot

Get your knock sensor in ASAP and go from there.

 

[droppinbottom]

I cant say what I do will work for everyone. I was taught to tune my car by a respectable tuner in the dsm industry.

We have spent alot of time and money with my car on the rollers to find this works best, If I try to set timing according to fsm I can not run hardly and boost which means I dont make hardly any power.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

Wait, so you have dsmlink? Methinks that they're just tuning the error margin out on the timing tables?

 

[droppinbottom]

Even before link we would try to set boost at reasonable amount and then adjust timing till I dont have any knock.

Now with link I found that I can set timing at 5°BTDC and take all timing out with link. I will still knock like a sob. So only thing for me is to retard timing and then I can try to fine adjust with link to add some back in.

 

[DSMTyson]

& you'll want to set Base Idle as you set Base Timing as unless you are at Base Idle you can't set Base Timig...

Base Idle & Base Timing affect each other - IMO due to the weird ass angle we have to view the Marks from when you are squatting down & peeking thru the belts & "see" 5 BTDC you are really set at about 7 BTDC - SO when you see 2.5 BTDC it's actually about 5 IMO - I try to be in the same position/angle whenever I set mine halfway between 5 & 0 BTDC & IMO that is 5 in the real world & "seeing" 0 would be 2.5 BTDC real world IMO... BTW on my Pocketlooger I'm pulling 22 - 25 advance at WOT (Tuning guide reccommends NO LESS than 15 at WOT) & see as much as 46 degrees advance on Pocketlogger in some throttle positions - ZERO knock on 92 or 93 Octane in Winter (which of course means I could bump up Timing OR Boost) - but it runs great & I don't want to fry this old Turbo quite yet - seeing 13 PSI on POS Stock gauge.


- AFTER setting Base Timing correctly per the above you could then "bump up" Base Idle a little (50 - 100 rpm) to help with the Fan cut-on - The ECU can pull more than you can retard! - Some of us have BOTH Fans cutting on simultaneously so that is loading your Alt more than a stock setup - Typically you can retard one degree when setting Base Timing & it idles smoother as long as Idle is close to spec - Setting it where you see 4 will make it more resistant to losing RPM when fans cut on.

Zombie thread!!

Anyways, can anyone verify the bold in the quoted text is actually true? I came across this when researching about ignition timing. I need to reset mine.

Also, which is the proper rpm to set base timing at?