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Throttle Body Screws

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92PandaTalonTSI

10+ Year Contributor
97
1
Oct 3, 2011
Bethlehem, Pennsylvania
Alrighty everyone. I searched and searched time and time again to find some information on these screws. All I found is that they are hard to take out without without stripping them (which I found out to be true) and some false information on the screw sizes. The screw size is M4X.7 and 10mm long. M4X.75 does not exist like a lot of the forum people have stated. I called machine shop after machine shop asking if M4X.75 existed, everyone said no... so I just bought the M4X.7 and crossed my fingers. I know the Pitch is only .05 off, but the last thing I wanna do is make a $15 rebuild turn into a $250 purchase. You need the screw to be tapered so it sits inside the groove for the throttle body plate. Therefore, simple bolts will not work. I tried to shy away from the "flathead" or "phillips" heads because they tend to strip easily. Before asking "if you cant use bolts, flathead, or phillips... what do you use," check these out:
12Pcs Allen Hex Socket Flat Head Cap Screw M2 M3 M4 M5 | eBay

Select the option M4X.7 10mm and buy them. They come in 15 packs for $5.20 from Shanghai. Try to find them here in America... Good Luck... But if you do PLEASE let me know where!

Check out the process...
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This is the M4X.7 10mm vs the M4X.7 8mm
(I bought both because I didn't know which one would be a better fit. As you can see the one on the left is kinda short)
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With the butterfly open. (You can also see how far these screw heads go down into the plate. They actually go deeper then the stock screws which means more airflow!)



Because of those pictures I decided to go with the M4X.7 10mm because they could be ground down to be flush.



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This shows the screws from the top. The hex design really made it easier/safer to screw and unscrew.

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This shows them grounded down which also presses them out, so they have no way to back out from daily use.
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With butterfly open. No air restriction after grinded down with a Dremel.

If you have any questions ask me. I do have 13 screws left over. And yes I will clean the throttle body of all the metal fragments and of the built up crap.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
That's a good find. I swear I tried everything t remove the TB plate screws until I was told they were "peened" to hold them in. I destroyed 2 sets before I said screw it got it professionally done. Did you use loc-tite on the screws during re-installation? Your screw ends pressed out with the dremel but I would put some on just to be safe. I also prefer the hex head then any screwdriver especially dealing with small screws. Good job:thumb:
 
Easy way to remove throttle body shaft screws (and all other screws on the throttle body) - impact driver, the non-power tool. It's very, very rare that if the screw head is in perfect condition that I strip it. Make sure to find a bit that fits very well and you will have no issues. Hammer hard and let the tool do the work for you.

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Correct screw size could have been found at the bottom of this VFAQ article - TB Shaft Seals VFAQ

Peen the back instead of grinding it down. Less chance of the power tool slipping and hacking up some part of the throttle body.

Make sure to use a dab of red threadlocker on the screws to keep them from backing out.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Correct screw size could have been found at the bottom of this VFAQ article - TB Shaft Seals VFAQ

Peen the back instead of grinding it down. Less chance of the power tool slipping and hacking up some part of the throttle body.

I wasn't sure how to peen the back of the screws without a hammer and didn't want to take a hammer to the shaft. Seems to me like the shaft would bend,.Just a scary thought for me I guess.

And yea I went through that whole VFAQ article and thats where I read M4X.75. I didn't see the correct size til now on the bottom when you pointed it out.

BTW... I used an EZ Out tool to ge the stripped screws out. As you loosen, the EZ Out tool tightens into the stripped phillips spot. The stock Peen end just releases eventually. I ordered a M4X.7 Tap also incase the thread got messed up.
 
You need a ball peen hammer to properly peen the backs of the screws. No issues with bending the shaft. You don't need to really hammer on them, so it will only take a couple hits and you're good. Just enough to flatten it out.

I've tried ez out tools before and have broken many of them. It's been a long time since I've stripped a shaft screw, so I forget how I've removed those. For the FIAV screws, I usually just keep drilling a bigger and bigger hole in the screw head until the head falls off. Then you can lift the FIAV off the screw studs (if you will) and remove what's left via hands/vice grips.
 
Alrighty everyone. I searched and searched time and time again to find some information on these screws. All I found is that they are hard to take out without without stripping them (which I found out to be true) and some false information on the screw sizes. The screw size is M4X.7 and 10mm long. M4X.75 does not exist like a lot of the forum people have stated. I called machine shop after machine shop asking if M4X.75 existed, everyone said no... so I just bought the M4X.7 and crossed my fingers. I know the Pitch is only .05 off, but the last thing I wanna do is make a $15 rebuild turn into a $250 purchase. You need the screw to be tapered so it sits inside the groove for the throttle body plate. Therefore, simple bolts will not work. I tried to shy away from the "flathead" or "phillips" heads because they tend to strip easily. Before asking "if you cant use bolts, flathead, or phillips... what do you use," check these out:
12Pcs Allen Hex Socket Flat Head Cap Screw M2 M3 M4 M5 | eBay

Select the option M4X.7 10mm and buy them. They come in 15 packs for $5.20 from Shanghai. Try to find them here in America... Good Luck... But if you do PLEASE let me know where!

Check out the process...
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This is the M4X.7 10mm vs the M4X.7 8mm
(I bought both because I didn't know which one would be a better fit. As you can see the one on the left is kinda short)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

With the butterfly open. (You can also see how far these screw heads go down into the plate. They actually go deeper then the stock screws which means more airflow!)



Because of those pictures I decided to go with the M4X.7 10mm because they could be ground down to be flush.



You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This shows the screws from the top. The hex design really made it easier/safer to screw and unscrew.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

This shows them grounded down which also presses them out, so they have no way to back out from daily use.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

With butterfly open. No air restriction after grinded down with a Dremel.

If you have any questions ask me. I do have 13 screws left over. And yes I will clean the throttle body of all the metal fragments and of the built up crap.
I have seen a few different locations, can you show me a picture of where your screw is I have idle rev of 15k and then 2k after driving
 
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