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The Official "What's this DSM worth?" Thread

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Everything seems too look good as far as mods, should run good. The only i am not a fan off is the 6 puck clutch, they grab good but they dont last long.

Yea i figured it would either on its way out. Going to test drive the car later in the week, so hopefully everything is sound.
 
I'll be the first to say it, but check for crankwalk. We bought our car with a walked crank and didn't know it, and its a pain in the ass. Also, it is by far most common on 1995's. If the clutch sticks down on left hand turns that's a telltale sign, as is a changing engagement point. That being said, I doubt he would have done all those mods to a walked car, but better safe than sorry.
 
I'll be the first to say it, but check for crankwalk. We bought our car with a walked crank and didn't know it, and its a pain in the ass. Also, it is by far most common on 1995's. If the clutch sticks down on left hand turns that's a telltale sign, as is a changing engagement point. That being said, I doubt he would have done all those mods to a walked car, but better safe than sorry.

Ohh thank you... I was worried about crankwalk and have heard horror stories. But didnt know exactly how to check for it.
 
Just realize that those ways are rough ways to check, not hard and fast rules. To really know you need to drop the oilpan and check for end play I believe, although someone feel free to correct me.
 
Check compression, do a boost leak test if you can, check the condition and play of the timing belt, check for chassis imperfections, and any leaks.
And as the gu above said about crankwalk, take the car for a spin and do a hard left turn and shift gears. this is to test that the clutch pedal doesn't stay down, which is a usual sign of crankwalk.
 
Like these guys said, check compression, boost leaks, make sure the tranny doesn't grind. Ask him if he has reciepts on the timing belt, check the timing belt and the balance shaft belt (if it wasn't eliminated) for cracks. Best way to check for CW would be to yank on the crank pulley but it has a cover on it, there is a write up on a test while driving, when you turn the steering wheel the clutch sinks. You can check the build date on it, the 2gs built in '94 used left over 1g 7-bolt blocks and the '96's were the most to CW. I would be the first to say stay away from modded dsm's but some are legit.
 
I'm looking at a 98 gsx with 126,000 totally stock Cheyenne red and the guy wants 4000 for it. Only thing wrong is that the clear coat is peeling on the fenders and there is a little rust on the strut towers... Drives good everything feels good I'm going to do a compression test tomorrow and check the turbo. What do you guys think? Is it worth buying?
 
this is a DSM site.... what do you think the opinions are gonna be...
 
I was pretty excited to find a gsx with no mods. Even though it has high millage my thinking was that it probably had a pretty easy life (Not Raced).
 
Compression test is huge. You can always find another T25 if the current one isn't good. Fender respray wont cost much either. If it is mechanically sound...go for it. I spent much more than that for mine. It came completely stock too. I got burned with a bad valve. Revalve job was BUCKS!! For how much I spent on mine...you could get the one you are talking about and drop in one of these...

Full Function Technology :: DSM :: FFTec Built Engine Packages :: Shortblock :: FFTec 2.3L Shortblock

Hope the compression test passes with flying colors.
 
That is wayyyyy too much for that shortblock. You could buy part by part and have it hot tanked and installed for less. If that GSX is unmolested then it's a good buy just make sure the timing belt has been changed or get it changed asap. Good buy and good luck.
 
Timing belt has not been changed since he has had the car! So im guessing it has never been changed... The first thing I would do is take it home and order the parts and not drive it till timing belt is taken care of. Oh and it has a stupid underdrive pulley :nono: so Ill be getting rid of that.
 
Better beware of the damage done by that crank pulley.
It doesnt take many miles to make it walk w/ an unbalanced pulley.
 
Better beware of the damage done by that crank pulley.
It doesnt take many miles to make it walk w/ an unbalanced pulley.

What kind of damage would I be looking for? How would I check to see if it has caused any damage? The accessory belts squeak quite a bit, I'm guessing that may be a combination of the underdrive pulley and the fact that the belts have never been changed. Aren't UDP smaller so the belts don't fit properly?
 
What kind of damage would I be looking for? How would I check to see if it has caused any damage? The accessory belts squeak quite a bit, I'm guessing that may be a combination of the underdrive pulley and the fact that the belts have never been changed. Aren't UDP smaller so the belts don't fit properly?

Lack of proper maintenance can kill a car just as easily as racing it around! There seems to be a good deal of things that need attention and the underdrive pulley would scare me. Get a compression test done before any money changes hands and see if the price can be lowered at all. Good luck and I hope it works out for you.
 
WOW!!! Thats an awesome price if you dont buy it give me his number...OMG
 
The way he talked the UDP hasn't been on there long and the car has sit for the last couple months. He was deployed to Iraq, he is in the air force. So hopefully it wasn't on there long enough to do any damage. I'm going in the morning with my pressure tester and hopefully its ok... What kind of pressure do you think I can expect to see? I'm hoping for 160 but with the millage realistically I'm sure it will be lower.
 
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