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The Boosted Rose

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Looks like a DNP style manifold. I got one for my GSX. Had one years ago on my old spyder. Always liked how they looked compared to others.
Yeah, definitely looks awesome. And now that you say it, it does really look like their 16G manifold... more clues to the mystery manifold puzzle LOL

Progress looks good! And that manifold is killer, I love it.
Thanks man, really appreciate it!
 
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Got the car leak-down and compression tested and was surprised by the results. The car has around 140K miles on it, and a history that is mostly unknown to me. I'm just glad I can actually build the thing without worrying about it failing LOL
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I didn't like the 25% result for cylinder #2, but since the compression is similar to the other cylinders I think it's going to be ok... at least, I HOPE it's going to be ok.

Now the question is (now that I can actually build this engine), do I stick with my 16G plans or go with a 68HTA? A friend of mine brought up the 68HTA, and it will definitely get me to my 350whp goal no problem, with some room to grow, but a 16G is the 'easier' route, since you can basically buy a 16G and an install kit from Extreme PSI and be good to go. Oh the choices...

Thanks for reading! And here's the video:
 
Didn't do a whole lot this week, I just put the Carbonetics headlight cowl on. Looks pretty good, I just hope it doesn't fall off (it's only got 3M double-sided tape holding it on LOL).

Turns out, the cowl is actually meant to be installed with the chrome piece AND the black insert cut and removed... so I had to use a Dremel tool (which seems to be a regular on this build haha) and grind the back of the cowl down to fit. Not perfectly flush still, but should be OK.

Pictures!!
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/\ Had to make the whole a bit larger

Before:
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After:
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Personally, I dig it.

Thanks for reading!!

Video:
 
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Ok, so it's been a couple weeks since I posted last, but I've got some things to share.

First off, the Cerakoted manifold started chipping... dang it LOL Got it recoated, but this time in black since it had a much better track record for not peeling/cracking. Give it another two weeks and... it's peeling again. Granted, I did give it a couple scratches by accident during installation, but it is peeling in places that I didn't even touch. I guess the manifold is just old. Which I knew.

Good news though! I was able to replace the thermostat FINALLY. The car has had problems warming up since I bought it, but in the last few months (as it's been getting cold) the car never really made it to proper operating temp. And then I'd turn on the heater and the gauge would drop almost to the bottom! So I decided to not drive it anymore while it was cold outside until I replaced the thermostat, and last Saturday I did. Now it actually warms up normally! And GOODBYE check engine light!

Man, it's really satisfying when a repair goes right for once LOL

Thanks for reading!

Here's the video:
 
I had my hot parts kit coated by Polydyn and that stuff is pretty soft. Just rubbing on the cardboard it was laying on would cause marks. Oh well, I guess that's how ceramic coating just is? Thought it would be tougher.
 
I had my hot parts kit coated by Polydyn and that stuff is pretty soft. Just rubbing on the cardboard it was laying on would cause marks. Oh well, I guess that's how ceramic coating just is? Thought it would be tougher.

Yeah, I guess you just have to be REALLY careful with it, but some bolts are just hard to get to when installing the manifold! LOL oh well, it was a $40 manifold, can't really complain.
 
The time has come... execute order 16G...

Sooooo last weekend I ordered pretty much everything I need to finish this build. Once I found out that the engine was in descent shape, that was basically the green light to move forward with turning my mostly stock GST into a 350whp one. This is a complete list of what's on the way :D

From Extreme PSI:
Evo III 16G
Install Kit (for a side mount intercooler)
6 Ply Turbo to Manifold Gasket (I don't trust my 1 ply)
255 LPH Walbro Fuel Pump with Install Kit
1000cc DeatschWerks Injectors (Low Impedance)
Stage 3 Daily Driver Sound Bend Clutch Kit
OEM Throwout Bearing
Metal Shifter Bushings

From Rix Racing:
DSMLink V3 with ECU

From Special Carbon Fiber:
Carbon Fiber A Pillar Covers with Gauge Pods

From Prosport Gauges:
Digital Boost Gauge
Digital Oil Pressure Gauge
Digital Air to Fuel Ratio Gauge with Install Kit

I think that's about it. The Extreme PSI stuff will be here in a week, the gauges will take two weeks or so since they were out of the oil pressure gauge I ordered, and the other stuff I have no clue when they'll be out but they're coming! The only thing I need now is enough people to take part in the upgraded side mount group buy :sneaky: *hint hint*

I was hoping to get the Quaife LSD as well... but, uh, that was a lot more expensive than I thought it would be LOL so I'm just gonna throw on the fender flares I have and put on some sticky tires :hellyeah:

Obviously, there's going to be a bunch of little things here and there that I'll be doing to this car throughout it's lifetime, but this is basically going to be as far as I go power-wise (on this engine ;))

Thanks for reading!

Here's da video:
 
The journey continues... in a unique way :sneaky:

So, I have a slight fascination with doing things differently from everyone else. Case in point: the way I did my fuel pump re-wire.

Generally, people run the wiring under the carpet on the passenger side of the car, and hide the relay and wiring either under the rear seats or under the plate that covers the fuel pump. I said “to heck with that!”. I wanted to 1. Make everything easy to access, 2. Keep things neat and out of the way, and 3. Include a kill switch. Here’s how I did it:

I started by running the power wire through the firewall on the passenger side, and then I hid the in-line fuse holder right behind the carpet; easy to access, and out of the way.

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Next, I ran the power wire behind the center console and to the left of the steering wheel, where I drilled a hole and hollowed out the section where I installed the kill switch.

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I grounded the kill switch to a bolt directly underneath the steering column.

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I then ran the power wire through the center console, and this is where my technique really starts to differ from the way most do the fuel pump re-wire.

The wire from the kill switch goes underneath the cup holder and connects to the relay. This is where the relay will be; easy to access and out of the way. Ever need to get to the relay? Just pull the cup holder section out!

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Finally, I ran three wires to the fuel pump by using one of those grabber tools (normally used if you drop a bolt in the engine bay or something) to pull them out from underneath the carpet; one for the remote, one for the power, and one for the ground. I just poked a hole in the boot that connects to the cover plate and fed the wires through that.

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I also ended up grounding both the relay and the fuel pump underneath the cup holder. Not sure if the ground for the fuel pump needs to be close in proximity to the pump so the wire is shorter (not sure if that matters, I’m not an electrician LOL), but it’s worked so far.

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That’s it! I’ll be updating this thread soon on how I wired up my new boost gauge :hellyeah:

Seriously, you guys rock

Video:
 
So

I am in the process of wiring up all the aftermarket gauges I have for my car (boost, oil pressure, and air to fuel ratio). I've decided I'm going to wire all those up and ensure they are working, and then I will begin replacing the turbo, injectors, ECU, etc.

For simplicity's sake, I wired all the gauges together (which may have been less simple LOL) so that they now all share the same power, remote, and ground wires.

For the power, I sent a 12 gauge wire to the battery, and included an in-line, 10 amp fuse (fire bad).

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/\ The second fuse is for the fuel pump.

For the ground I connected the wire to a bolt underneath the brake line (also with a 12 gauge wire).

IMG_3258.JPG


For the remote wire, I just wired the gauges to the remote wire that goes into my radio (because I didn't trust the cigarette lighter to work haha)


Now for the boost gauge.

Prosport's boost gauge uses a sender. So instead of running a vacuum line all the way from the engine bay into the cabin, you just have to run a short line to the sender, then send the signal and remote wires into the car. I decided to hook the vacuum line up with the line coming off of the fuel pressure regulator, so I mounted the sender as close to it as possible, grounded it right there, and then ran the signal wire to the boost gauge and remote wire to the radio.

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I tried to tuck everything behind other wires and stuff to keep them out of sight, and to keep them from being snagged by my feet or the pedals... I'm no professional though so it's not exactly pretty underneath my dash LOL

Thanks for reading!

Here's the (not-so) long anticipated video!
 
Oh yes, another build update! This one isn't SUPER interesting, just did some illegal stuff.

So I FINALLY finished installing the last of my gauges, the last one being the A/F ratio gauge. I put the sensor in the rear O2 sensors place, since it appears that I have a high-flow cat of some kind...

IMG_3287.jpg


I still have the sensor, I just coiled it up (along with the excess wiring from the new sensor) and zip-tied it to keep it from hanging down and hitting the road.

I used the boot that goes into the cabin that the original sensor uses, and ran the wiring under the carpet and into the control box (a.k.a. home base).

IMG_3424.PNG


And HUZZAH! It works!! Mostly. It goes straight to 20.0 when I let off the gas, which is strange, and the values are, uh, varied while driving LOL Not sure if this is normal, but I didn't see any dangerous values. Worst case scenario I'll get the exhaust redone when I take the car to get tuned.

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I'm using the carbon fiber a-pillar cover with gauge pods from Special Carbon Fiber.

Another update WITHIN an update!!

So I went to instal my new, Aeromotive AFPR with the 2G install kit form STM Tuned, and I realized "Wow, I have nowhere to put this". So, I decided to do some engine bay clean-up.

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VIOLA!! EGR system: gone. EVAP system: mostly gone. I still have to get rid of the charcoal canister (thank you Mitsubishi for putting it in the gas tank).

So next time I update this thread, it'll be for the AFPR install. Stay AWESOME you guys!

Here's the video for the gauge install:


Aaaand the video for the emissions delete:


I'm going to try a new format for my YouTube videos, that will help me to be able to work on my car more and keep you guys updated more. Let me know what you think!
 
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So I did a few odds and ends the last couple of weeks. Had to take a short break since I had Covid at the end of March. HOWEVER, the journey continues.

The biggest thing however was the installation of the Aeromotive Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator and 2G DSM Install Kit! Now I can put that bigger fuel pump in...

It actually didn't take a huge amount of time to do, but I did have to put the regulator in an interesting spot...

IMG_3598.PNG


Here is the video:
 
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On memorial day, I began the turbo swap!! I haven't really done ANYTHING like this before, but it was fun. I only got the turbo out, however. I'll have to put the 16G in this Saturday.

But I absolutely can NOT wait for this to be done! Once the 16G is in (and the boost controller), then it's off to Raven Fabrication to get the stage 3 clutch put in and have the car tuned. Hopefully that upgraded smic group buy works out...

There are a few differences between the T25 and 16G just from looking at the two. Obviously the 16G is not a monster turbo like what others are running, but I can't wait to feel what 300+ hp feels like when I'm the one that got it there (at least, most of the way there 😉). Like I said, I've never done anything like this before, so it's gonna be sooooo cool to be able to say to myself "This car is fast because I made it fast". That's going to be a good day.

So I'm thinking, since I already post videos of what I do on YouTube, there's really no need of me to put pics up on here as much. I think I'll let this forum be a place where I can express more of what I'm feeling and experiencing, while the videos will just be fun!

Also, kinda off topic, but I bought my first rifle on Tuesday (yesterday) and I am PUMPED. It's a Springfield M1A Scout Squad, and it's beautiful! Just gotta wait until the background check comes back...

Anyways, thanks for reading!!

The video will be posted on Wednesday...
 
So I'm thinking, since I already post videos of what I do on YouTube, there's really no need of me to put pics up on here as much. I think I'll let this forum be a place where I can express more of what I'm feeling and experiencing, while the videos will just be fun!


The video will be posted on Wednesday...

It’s an exciting time for your build. Glad you are enjoying it. It’ll be fun to drive with the new turbo and clutch.

YT is fine for your videos, but please still post pictures here. Many of us want to see your mods, but don’t have the time, or bandwidth, to jump over to YT to watch a video.

A picture is worth a thousand words, but if I have to watch a video with no sound because I’m in a quiet setting, it’s worthless.

Let us know how the turbo install goes and your driving impressions after the new clutch and turbo.

Keep posting those pics!
 
It’s an exciting time for your build. Glad you are enjoying it. It’ll be fun to drive with the new turbo and clutch.

YT is fine for your videos, but please still post pictures here. Many of us want to see your mods, but don’t have the time, or bandwidth, to jump over to YT to watch a video.

A picture is worth a thousand words, but if I have to watch a video with no sound because I’m in a quiet setting, it’s worthless.

Let us know how the turbo install goes and your driving impressions after the new clutch and turbo.

Keep posting those pics!

I guess I'll keep posting pics! Maybe I should get a legit camera... 😂
 
Wow, it's been a while. I guess that's what happens when you're pursuing a degree in computer science...

Well, since my last post I finished the 16G swap and got the car to RavenFab where they took care of some odds and ends for me and installed the clutch. I ran the break-in tune until about 2 weeks ago (it was too cold to tune). But WOAH, the car feels totally different! It pulls real nice, and feels like it's actually trying now 😂 It's running 20 psi of boost for now.

I was actually debating on selling this car (and my secret project car) and buying a BRZ/GT86. I've ALWAYS wanted one of those, and now that I'm a bit older it would not be that big of a burden financially to own one. However, I decided to put that decision off a bit longer, especially since the car looks SO much better with some new wheels!!

IMG_4576.jpg


They are the style I wanted, but not quite the right color... I wanted gloss black but MAN the white looks good!! They are also a different tire/wheel size combo than I was originally planning on. I was going to go with 18x8.5 wheels with some 245s or 255s, but I saw these and jumped on the opportunity. These are 18x9.5 wheels with 225/45 R18s... I never thought I'd like the stretched look so much 😏 and they don't rub at full turn! But I did have to cut the lip off of the inside of the rear fenders to get those to not rub with every bump 😅 and the fronts rub a little when I corner hard, but I attribute that to my absolutely dead and ancient suspension. Needless to say, up next on the buy-list are some coilovers! I was thinking KSport or BC Racing...

Anyways, thanks for reading!
 
Ah, it's been too long! I've done a few things to my car:
  • Installed some BC Racing coilovers (technically they were for a GSX, but whatever)
  • New brake pads (softer than the last ones I had... I don't like them LOL)
  • New black, slotted rotors
And then today, I got some rears seats out of a 3rd gen Eclipse and slapped those in:

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One of the brackets was a little bent, so I had to, uh, "convince" one of the seat backs to line up better with the other. But other than that, they bolted right up! $34 well spent 😌

The only reason why I got rid of them in the first place was 1. weight savings, and 2. I didn't really drive anyone around other than myself. But recently I've been doing a lot of carpooling people to church and stuff, so I decided to put some rears seats back in instead of constantly borrowing the family C-Max.

Also got the car's tune finished up today; more boost (about 22 psi) and no more knock!

The plan for this car now is to make it last until I get my own house and a new daily (in about a year and a half), and then the ultimate transformation will occur... :dsm:😈

And yes, I know I need to keep doing the YouTube thing, but it's complicated 😅 I love making YouTube videos, really! But when I work on my car, it's kind of a therapy for me. My car gives me a place to go when I need to get away from everything, and while making videos with my car is fun it also turns my getaway into a job of sorts. Also, filming a job as you do it increases the time it takes to complete that job by, like, 50%, so things take way longer too.

But I still want to make YouTube videos, but perhaps they will be less instructional and more personal; more like a vlog style rather than what I have been doing.
 
Today I decided to fix a bunch of things that I've been putting off... broken door handle, windows switches that aren't quite installed right, and a clutch that is becoming less and less willing to cooperate.

Honestly the clutch is the weirdest thing, and it's been getting worse. With the pedal pushed all the way in, it still acts like it's not all the way disengaged which makes shifting difficult. Finally, the car decided it didn't want to leave reverse yesterday, so I decided to check it out.

There is a rod and nut at the top of the clutch pedal, and I tried adjusting that in order to make the clutch pedal push further... after trying to drive the car later today, I realized that it still didn't work 😅 Maybe I just need to adjust the rod in the opposite direction? I don't know, but it was worse than it's been, so I'm hoping I can figure this out. If not, this car will be out of commission until I can take it to a shop, because I am transitioning into a (hopefully) new job soon so I don't really have money right now.

Anyways, I decided to keep making YouTube videos -- because I like making them, and it's fun interacting with the community. So here's the video!


A follow up video will be releasing next week as well, since the car actually isn't fixed
 
So I replaced the clutch fluid today in an attempt to get the car working again... and BOY did it need a clutch fluid change! I went through a lot of clutch fluid to change all of it, and almost used the entire 1 quart!

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That stuff was nasty!!

Unfortunately, the fluid change wasn't enough to get the car to shift into gear, which means I'm going to have to replace my slave- and master-cylinders as the next step in this process.

Something else that wasn't good was that the car ran pretty rough when I started it up. It smoothed out a little, but still was really shaky. Not only that, it smelled strongly of gasoline, but that may have been because it is was a cold start in a garage -- so I got to smell ALL those amazing exhaust fumes 😂 But the rough startup is still concerning, because my car has never done that before. Hopefully this car isn't on it's way out... I need it to last at least until I can get a house so that I have a nice place to store it when I replace it with a new daily, but that may not happen for another year at least.

Here's the vid:
 
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Bump... jk LOL

So I ordered a new slave cylinder and master cylinder and started to install them, when I saw that the clutch line was rounded out at the master cylinder! Gosh, I have bad luck with these hard lines on this car (Thinking of you, oil feed line to the turbo 😒). Anyways, I promptly ordered the stainless-steel line from STM Tuned and waited for about a week and a half for it to arrive.

The install was pretty straight forward, although I do wish the line was shorter so that I didn't have to route it all the way around the engine bay. But hey, I'm glad it's all over with 😂

Something that I didn't show in the video is when I was bleeding the new clutch line. Bubbles just kept coming out! But then I tried not opening the bleed nipple as much and the bubbles stopped, so maybe by loosening it too much it can actually suck air into the drain tube? 🤷‍♂️ Also, it may have just been my slave cylinder that was the problem, because the master cylinder looks pretty good, even though I checked the slave cylinder and it seemed ok...

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Ah well, I'm just glad to be back in the Eclipse and driving it again! Kinda stinks that winter is right around the corner, so I'm going to have to put those old, awful looking wheels back on since they have winter tires on them. I'm thinking about painting them though, because they really do look bad 🤣

Here's the vid:
 
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