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The Battle of "Eris"

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Another 6 or 7 hours grinding and sanding. The pics don’t do the work justice yet so I’ll pop one in here showing the arsenal of crap I’m using. “DSM chassis prep kit”. The 1g chassis has way too many little corners and crevices, kinda wish it was a 2G at the moment. ;)
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Another 7 hours wheeling and sanding on undercarriage. Getting kinda discouraged with the speed of progress but still plugging along.

Did find these little wire brushes that actually work pretty well at getting into tight corners and whatnot.
 

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Well based on how much the bag weighed I just changed in my shop vac full of rust, rock bits, sand, etc., I must have gained 10HP and there’s not even a motor in her yet! :cool:
 
So I finally did something other than wheeling and sanding. Rigged up many different apparatuses to try and get to as many spots as possible inside. Thing that worked best was 12 gauge bore brush attached to end of dryer vent cleaning extensions. Then sprayed the only can of Eastwood Internal Frame Coating I had. That didn’t go as far as I had hoped and at 30 bucks a can, this is going to get pricy!
 

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1 can didn’t go too far. Hopefully this will get me close. Plan is use the green for the first coat and black for the second to help keep track of progress.
 

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This came in the mail today. Looks great and high quality work! Just wish I was close to installing so I could see how it all goes together and looks on car. Thanks @EC17PSE and keep up the good work Bobby! Eyeballing those brakes and other things now..
 

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This came in the mail today. Looks great and high quality work! Just wish I was close to installing so I could see how it all goes together and looks on car. Thanks @EC17PSE and keep up the good work Bobby! Eyeballing those brakes and other things now..
You can still install it and get it all prepped and setup ready for when the time comes. Means less down time for you later once you are ready for the install
 
You can still install it and get it all prepped and setup ready for when the time comes. Means less down time for you later once you are ready for the install
I gotta at least get thru all the undercoating, body work, painting first! Lol. Not gonna put anything on car until that stuff is done and hopefully doesn’t have to go back up on rotisserie again.
 
So first coat green. Let it settle in and dry. Flip her over then spray black to settle in the other direction to get all crevices as much as possible. Put pieces of cotton balls to plug wherever there were threaded holes to protect the threads from getting gunked up, and taped over any other holes or plastic inserts. Need a couple more cans, only the rails at the engine bay left.
Also sprayed Ospho on any residual surface rust that was left underneath that the 50+ hours of wheeling, sanding, etc didn’t want to take off. (And the oxidation that already forming where I had it down to bright bare metal.) That stuff is pretty cool! I know I didn’t really need to as the Rust Encapsulator Platinum is made to apply right over the rust, but figured it could hurt right?
 

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Internal frame coating didn’t come in yet so couldn’t finish that part yet. Got a jump start on prepping engine bay.
 

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Finished all the internal frame coatings finally. Getting into the detail part of nooks and crannies in the engine bay now. Ugh. Must be around 70 hours now prepping underneath and engine bay.

So time for some pro and cons about Florida:
Pro: It’s never too cold to go to the garage and work on your car.
Con: Half the year it’s too hot to want to work on the car.
Pro: You can work in crocs all year.
Con: The metal splinters flying off all the different wire wheels some how constantly find their way into your feet, and you realize when you get up and take the dogs out back, ouch, but still continue to work in the crocs. LOL
 
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Finished all the internal frame coatings finally. Getting into the detail part of nooks and crannies in the engine bay now. Ugh. Must be around 70 hours now prepping underneath and engine bay.

So time for some pro and cons about Florida:
Pro: It’s never too cold to go to the garage and work on your car.
Con: Half the year it’s too hot to want to work on the car.
Pro: You can work in crocs all year.
Con: The metal splitters flying off all the different wire wheels some how constantly find their way into your feet, and you realize when you get up and take the dogs out back, ouch, but still continue to work in the crocs. LOL


Pro: You can wear sandals all year
Con: The sheer amount of biting insects, arachnids, and other species will eat your feet alive, if your back can even survive standing in crocs/sandals for hours.


I discovered the other day there's a species of gigantic fly that is NOT a horsefly, that sucks your f**king blood like a giant mosquito, the hard way. As in, it was chilling getting a nice drink of some premium diabetic blood off my ankle. Swatting it resulted in a giant drip of blood streaming down my ankle like I'd been stabbed.


So yeah. Welcome to Florida. :p


Also: The humidity. Ugh. It was cloudy all day and I waited for the evening to do the spark plugs on the Edge, and still looked like I'd jumped in a pool almost immediately upon pulling the first plug.
 
So little update here. Kinda aggravating but at the same time extremely glad I decided to investigate further. I am by no means an expert on much car related but feel I have a pretty good grasp on things and able to apply common sense combined with real world experience giving my profession as a contractor.

This is a warning to anyone wanting to use Ospho as a rust treatment and paint prep. The short version is:

The bottle says basically spray, dry for minimum of 24 hrs, and paint right over basically. I have spent countless hours prepping undercarriage and engine bay best I can see, but there's still areas you just can't get every little pit of rust colored metal to shiny metal and remove 100% of the iron oxide on the surface. Here comes Ospho to the rescue, so I thought. Even suggested by my salesperson at local PPG store. Then in conversation I say something just doesn't seem right though, there's areas that seem gummy and I can wipe paint off with my finger. He says, ya you gotta wash it off.

Hmm, ok. Let's go deep dive a little more. Then I find the SPI forum online with all the old heads warning about how you need to neutralize the Oshpo WHILE WET and how they steer people away from acid preps as you need to be so precise with your prep. Then talking with one of my painting supers on a job he said ya you need to do that for sure. I said well shit man it doesn't say that on the bottle I'm glad I investigated more. He was really surprised it didn't.

If I would have spent damn near 100 hours prepping this thing when it's all said and done for my paint to lift, I don't know what I would've done. So I re-sprayed the whole undercarriage and engine bay and washed thoroughly and dried as quickly as possible with fans and compressed air for probably 60% of it to flash rust again after the water hit it wherever there was fresh bare metal. FML. So now I'm having to re-sand all this sh$t again by hand to get the rust off.

Seems like a redundant waste of time! I guess not in reality though cuz all the tough spots I couldn't get to shiny metal that turned black, (Iron Phosphate) stayed black after the washing. Damn though. :banghead:

http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.p...eutralize the Ospho MUST,the car and then dry.

Ospho1.jpg


Ospho2.jpg
 
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“Re-wetted” everything with Ospho to properly clean and neutralize last weekend. Lots of little crevices on the 1G undercarriage! Plan to do a little seam sealer this weekend and go over everything to hopefully finalize prep everything for undercoating, prime, paint, clear the following weekend. (Just underneath, engine bay will follow slightly different procedures.) Fingers crossed.
 
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