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The 4G63 NT Engine, and How to make a turbo kit for it!

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I am writing this post, to clear up a lot of common misconceptions about the 1g 4G63 Non- turbo motor.

There were 3 models produced:

4G63 F 6 Bolt Crank 135hp
4G63 M 7 Bolt Crank 135hp
4G63 K 7 Bolt Crank 167hp (94 Talon ES SE only 250 sold in US)

(I will now call the motors by there corresponding letters: F, M, K)

F and M had 240cc Fuel injectors.
K had 300cc Fuel injectors.

F and M had short lift period cams (less then turbo on intake, same on exhuast)
K had long lift period cams (same as turbo on intake and exhaust)

Cast Piston with compression ratio of 9.0:1.

These pistons are weaker then the turbo pistons, and also have thinner ring shelfs.

The 5spd Tranny’s on the Non-Turbo have a higher final gear then the turbos, allowing for a faster bottom end, but less top end (unless there is more horsepower put behind it).

A Faster Bottom end, means beter ¼ mile, so why switch to a turbo tranny, all the parts inside are the same strength, just not the same gear ratio.

I have a 4G63K in my car and it toped out stock at 152mph, clock by radar gun (license suspended for 6 months for that stunt, won’t do it again).

At Moroso Speed Park with 130 Octane gas, the car ran a 14.9sec ¼ @ 84mph with just a cut air can and complete exhaust system (ported and polished exhaust headers, not performance ones).

Other then the things listed above the engines are the same as the 4G63T except for the ECU and a couple of sensors (knock and MAS).

But what can be done about a NT to make it faster….. NOS would be the most logical solution for the price. But the increased pressure from the NOS can lead to the same detonation as a turbo, melting internals, (so don’t go over 25 shot, but I don’t suggest it for long periods of time).

And then you think turbo… Too expensive!!! Or maybe not!!!!!

To make a NT into a turbo pocket rocket, is really no that hard, with a lot less boost then the turbo cars.

First there are a few things you need:

Turbo ECU or SAFC (to better control the fuel curve)
Turbo intake cam
Stronger Clutch
Exhuast manifold
Turbo
O2 Housing
Downpipe
Side Mount Intercooler, BOV, And all Piping
Knock sensor
MAS from a turbo 1g or a converted 2g MAS
Fuel Pressure Regulator (aftermarket)
450cc or larger fuel injectors and fuel pump
Boost Gauge, EFT Gauge, Air to Fuel Ratio Gauge
Stronger Pistons and rings (either forged(9.0:1) or 2g(8.5:1) or EVO(8.7:1))
MLS Metal head gasket

That’s it!!!

The common misconception is that lower compression pistons are needed. But this is simply not true, the Chrysler portion of DSM in the 60’s was known as the HEMI motor Corp. I4 Hemi Head were designed just for the 4G63 motor, allowing for extreme pressure to be achieved. All that you need to do is put in a Multi layer steel head Gasket to contain the extreme pressure.

With more pressure, you need more fuel to stop detonation. As long as a turbo ECU monitors fuel or a SFAC does, the engine will be free of detonation at standard levels of boost.

By Standard levels of boost, I mean on a NT 8psi or less, and this should take a car that produces 135hp (F and M) and 167hp (K) up to about 230hp (F and M) and 250hp(K), (maybe 10hp or more less).

Ok a turbo maxing at 8psi (even a TD05 with a 16g compressor) will spool at about 1800rpm (already tested on my friends 94 gs, and worked perfectly), allowing for 13 and 12 second ¼ miles. (My friend ran a 13.23@104mph on this setup I created for the NT 1g carsat 8psi).

You must do the install right though, THIS IS NOT FOR THE NOVICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

All the parts can be purchased used for as low as $600.00 and new for $2500.00 (Plus the price to install, if not doing yourself).
 
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