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Road Race Build The 2GNT That Could

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Good idea not welding the hatch i had to buy a junkyard hatch from not knowing better a few years ago, warping the hatch stupid bad. I should have used those patches rather than fiberglass and resin. Looks like way less of a mess. What are you planning to do with the spoiler?? I love that low rise look.
 
Getting to the nitty gritty of the body work. So far most of the original seam sealer seems to be holding up but there are some small spots that need attention before thick coats of sealer and primer. I haven't started sanding much besides the quarter holes. Disassembly comes first.

Also, does anybody have a GS or GST parts car? I'm looking for rear spindles. I'll be adding a rear sway bar during reassembly. I plan to post a WTB ad soon but am in no rush. A quality finish will take weeks or months at the rate I'm able to work on it.

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Getting to the nitty gritty of the body work. So far most of the original seam sealer seems to be holding up but there are some small spots that need attention before thick coats of sealer and primer. I haven't started sanding much besides the quarter holes. Disassembly comes first.

Also, does anybody have a GS or GST parts car? I'm looking for rear spindles. I'll be adding a rear sway bar during reassembly. I plan to post a WTB ad soon but am in no rush. A quality finish will take weeks or months at the rate I'm able to work on it.

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If rust doesn't bother you I do have a parts car.
 
The body patches have been great. Lots of soft block sanding is required for a proper contour, but I like how easy they were to deal with. On to the antenna hole now.
I'm debating if I want to also body work the hatch or just get a carbon fiber hatch. I'm not looking forward to paying the price for a carbon unit so I may just work with what I have for now.

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This is a loose install, just for mock up purposes. It would appear this is going to work. Rear spindles from a Mitsubishi Diamante will indeed bolt up to a 2g DSM. That's the only vehicle at the yard today with parts even remotely close, so I'm ecstatic that this worked out. I'm still searching for a rear sway bar because the Diamante rear sway bar is extremely different and will not bolt up. Now it's time to strip the spindles down and renovate them. First steps will be bushing removal, sandblasting, powdercoating and polyurethane bushing installation. I'll have them looking and performing as if they hadn't sat outside for 27 years before I permanently install them.
One small thing to note. The Diamante rear rotors are 258mm in diameter while the 2G GSX rear rotors are 262mm. But that shouldn't be a problem since GSX rotors will fit perfectly on the hub. The calipers appear to possibly be different but if the GSX calipers bolt to the Diamante spindle I will use them for a maximum upgrade.

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Gosh, these parts have spent some winters in the North. Can't wait to have them blasted and coated.
 
You got me wanting one of these 2GNT's to play around with for a daily. If I could find one in decent shape that was M/T I'd buy it up.
Eh, they're fun to play with but not a smart investment. I've obviously enjoyed them since I've spent over 6 years fooling with multiple of them. But dollar for dollar, you'll always get a larger return with the turbo models. This particular car won't leave me in the foreseeable future and will continue to improve, but normally I see the high mileage stock examples as nothing more than a good first car for a teenager or a temporary beater for someone low on funds. If you're willing to spend a bunch of cash you can make these into well performing vehicles, but it isn't worth it on paper. I still think they're ALL cool and unique rides but the 420A turds are for a smaller market.
 
Eh, they're fun to play with but not a smart investment. I've obviously enjoyed them since I've spent over 6 years fooling with multiple of them. But dollar for dollar, you'll always get a larger return with the turbo models. This particular car won't leave me in the foreseeable future and will continue to improve, but normally I see the high mileage stock examples as nothing more than a good first car for a teenager or a temporary beater for someone low on funds. If you're willing to spend a bunch of cash you can make these into well performing vehicles, but it isn't worth it on paper. I still think they're ALL cool and unique rides but the 420A turds are for a smaller market.

I don’t want it for performance, I want it for a slow but fun daily that has better gas mileage than 18mpg city. Lol.

I have the DSM and the Edge for turbo performance.
 
I don’t want it for performance, I want it for a slow but fun daily that has better gas mileage than 18mpg city. Lol.

I have the DSM and the Edge for turbo performance.
I did use this car as a daily for 2 years before I lost my marbles. It never really gave me issues besides old parts retiring and did get acceptable fuel consumption. I wouldn't necessarily convince you not to daily one as long as you know how to maintain shit. You know, a similar year model HONDA CIVIC would get you better fuel consumption. But those are literally everywhere. 2gNT's are not. And when it comes to basic tune ups and repairs, you could probably teach a baboon to do it.
 
I did use this car as a daily for 2 years before I lost my marbles. It never really gave me issues besides old parts retiring and did get acceptable fuel consumption. I wouldn't necessarily convince you not to daily one as long as you know how to maintain shit. You know, a similar year model HONDA CIVIC would get you better fuel consumption. But those are literally everywhere. 2gNT's are not. And when it comes to basic tune ups and repairs, you could probably teach a baboon to do it.


Hondas in NW FL are idiotically priced. A POS dented knocking same gear civic would be $6k.

If I score a passable 2Gnt for like $1500 that needed some engine work I’d jump all over it.
 
Hondas in NW FL are idiotically priced. A POS dented knocking same gear civic would be $6k.

If I score a passable 2Gnt for like $1500 that needed some engine work I’d jump all over it.
I think Hondas everywhere are idiotically priced. They're very practical and reliable, and everyone knows it. The only reason I have two of them now is because the precious owners didn't know what they were worth in a modern market. I was actually going to use twice the funds to get another DSM.
 
Scrubbed, rinsed, and two quick coats of fresh rugged finish. This didn't cost too much stress or ache since there were no existing compromises. I mainly needed a clean surface for the coating to adhere to. I honestly could have skipped this step, but decided to improve "while I'm in there". It looks new again.

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I finished melting and pressing out all of the bushings tonight. I had to melt the center sleeves out since most of my press adaptors are flat, then I was able to press the outer sleeve. Melting these bushings was actually quite easy. Once their temperature gets high enough, they will inflame and totally burn themselves. Just laid them on the concrete and let it burn until they fell out. I'll be painting the control arms and trailing arms before new bushings go in.

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Disassembling the Diamante spindles for sand blasting, I realized they are almost identical to the 2G drum brake spindles. Because of this, I will be using the 2G spindles to run my disc brakes. The caliper bracket mounts just bolt to the backside of the spindle via the hub bolts. Which will directly bolt to the existing 2G spindles. Other things I noticed are that the 2G spindles have additional curvature to allow for wider tire fitment, and also are just more stout. To the scrap pile the Diamante spindles go. I didn't like the corrosion level anyway. Soon I should do a write up on this. Very few parts are actually needed for this conversion and a spindle swap is not necessary like everyone believes.

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I finally feel caught up on my checklist around the property after cutting down 15 trees and renovating the kitchen. Back to cars. I got the last of the bushings pressed in and powdercoated the spindles gloss black. I decided to save time and pass on the trailing arms. They don't have any corrosion and still look glossy if I wipe them clean. They're just dirty/dusty. Joys of not having a rust belt car. My first RockAuto order in few months arrived on Saturday. New pads & rotors for the rear. I should have the car off jackstands in the coming days so I can continue body work on the hatch and rear quarters. I'm getting antsy to drive the car again. It spends too much time stuck in my garages. I've only fueled it up once or twice this year and never added more than 3-4 gallons. It's been years since I added more than that so I need to go haul ass and burn almost all of the fuel out so I can add fresh fuel. I may ride around with primered body for a little bit just have it going.

The trailing arm bushings were the most difficult to press in. They don't compress nearly as much as the smaller control arm and spindle bushings, so it takes a bit of force to pop them in. I'm not sure why these weren't designed as a 2 piece bushing like most of the polyurethane bushings I mess with. I got them done though.

I'm also still looking for a GST rear sway bar, if anybody has one. I may post a WTB soon.

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That is a lot of work, both around the house and on the car. On both points, I feel your pain. 😅 I've been going hard on the yard this spring, and making (much slower) progress on my suspension too.

Not sure if it helps or not, but the GS-T rear sway bar is part number MR130722. At the time of writing this, you can still get them new old stock on eBay, although that seller's rating doesn't look so stellar... I also found at least one used sway bar for a lot less money on eBay too, and I'm pretty sure its the same seller I bought my GS rear sway bar from, which I'm really happy with the condition on.

I'm assuming you are going to go urethane, but if you need the stock bushings, they are MR297507 and I found those on eBay too just looking for the part number. And the brackets are MB515245, and the bolts are MF241251.

Are you going to upgrade the front sway bar too?

Keep up the great work, and good luck!
 
Are you going to upgrade the front sway bar too?
It's very probable, but I haven't decided just yet. Eventually, I'm sure I will. I'm always looking for performance improvements on this car. The reason I'm focusing on the rear right now is that it's stripped bare anyway. Thanks for all the info as well.
 
Progress. I'm already second guessing the use of stock size brakes, but it's better than drums and I'm sure there will be future revisions. I just want the car holding it's own weight again.

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So just the bracket will be body color? I think it might clash a little if I'm honest. Blue brackets, red calipers, silver rotor, all on a solid color body.


But, it's your car. My advice is always do what you think looks best and eff what anyone else says. You have to live with it, and you're the one spending money and driving it.
 
I think it's green. Well, it's Emerald Pearl... regardless.

Perhaps I should post pictures after clear coat. Initial images were color coat only. Now you can see the flake really pop and the color has darkened. (Actually looks green now).

If you saw my older posts from when I sprayed the side mirrors and door handles, you can get a better idea of this color. At night it looks black, but totally comes to life with a light source.

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